Removing the lower mount bolt was key to getting this thing off. Ford is
terrible with easy repair engineering. Wouldn’t have figured that out
without the help from this video. Thank you!
So I have a question. My car didn’t want to start so I went and bought a
used battery but the car still didn’t turn on unless I gave it cables but
yet again when I turned it off it didn’t start again. So I changed the
alternator (used) but it still does the same except now the car turns off
when it’s on. What can it be??? Please help me!
Did you find out what the problem was? My battery light came on and then
went off. I went directly to the auto parts store and they dx that it was a
bad alternator…..battery light never came back on but finally got
stranded as would not start, had to be jumped???? Hate to pay for an
alternator if something else is wrong.
Perall the factory provided paperwork and specs provided on my 2005 focus
that came with the car when I got it new from the dealership in 05 it is a
2.0 Engine. For the burning smell look very close at all your wires and
cables for acid corrosion and melting of the wires and replace them if they
are damaged. If you can’t find the problem visually then it could be
something that won’t present itself until you won’t have to guess any more.
And always look for lose connections.
I added the wire fix part just for people like me who didn’t know about the
hatch problems Like what you had with you’re wiring,I wall have other
video’s that explain some repairs and inspection of the hatch back. And as
always I’m glad I could help
Much stronger people than I on here haha, not a hope in hell of getting it
off without tensioner coming off too, but i can see how others have! Thanks
for video saved we a lot of blood sweat and tears!!!!
The easy way to find out what the numbers are that you listed are for, is
to go to the Ford dealership and talk with their parts division. I don’t
have access to part number’s that they will have, and lot more information
on the part numbers and they should help you to determine what the are for.
great vid! only took me two hours and that included the trip to the parts
store, I would add there actually is only one “bolt” on the mount to the
engine block, the other two are studs that need to be removed before the
alternator will drop down you will need a 12pt 1/4″ socket to do this once
the 15mm nuts are removed. I also checked the hatch wiring and found 3
broken wires most likley the cause of my drain… thanks again!
thanks, when i removed the nuts the studs came with them. so i just backed
the nuts off the the studs after i pulled the alt and reset them after
replacing the stud in the holes
your welcome. with this method, if i had a car lift i could do this job in
15 min, the video was the second time i pulled this same alt. i had it
tested at a rebuild shop and it passed, but i guess the hatch wires were
the cause of the problem and it drove for 3 months before i made this video.
I hate this car so much. I have had intermitant power outages and the pcm
has died on me, ford supposedily fixed it. But now the battery light is on
and sitting at a bank parking lot because the battery is dead. I read about
that wiring issue for the rd light and they supposedily checked it. But I
no longer trust them. So if you could tell a non handy person how to check
those wires. I’d be greatly appreciative.
Before you do all sorts of parts changing, check the wiring inside the boot
at the rear hatch, if its a hatchback. all my problems were broken wires. I
soldered them back together and didn’t need an alternator. this is the best
way I’ve seen for the alt replacement! nice work!
){kind=link}
1:44 made my night.
This video saved my life.
it did i used a 1/4 socket and that worked for me. and so did your video
thanks for the help
Removing the lower mount bolt was key to getting this thing off. Ford is
terrible with easy repair engineering. Wouldn’t have figured that out
without the help from this video. Thank you!
At 03:00 your plastic shield just slides off. Mine is still snapped in
place. Can I still remove it without taking the engine out?
Thanks! Life saver! Haynes manual very vague.
Did remove power steering and coolant tanks to access top bolt, but still
tricky. Needed torx E8 socket.
Wasn’t sure new alternator would go in at first.
Great how to. Got it done before the snow started falling. Most of the fix
was driving to harbor freight to get the E8 socket!
Thank you for your video and comments. I could not have pulled this of
without your advice about removing the transmission mount.
So I have a question. My car didn’t want to start so I went and bought a
used battery but the car still didn’t turn on unless I gave it cables but
yet again when I turned it off it didn’t start again. So I changed the
alternator (used) but it still does the same except now the car turns off
when it’s on. What can it be??? Please help me!
what is a E8 and all so im going to try to pull my out this feb in the
garage cold i will have a creeper but im glad i came a cross your video
Did you find out what the problem was? My battery light came on and then
went off. I went directly to the auto parts store and they dx that it was a
bad alternator…..battery light never came back on but finally got
stranded as would not start, had to be jumped???? Hate to pay for an
alternator if something else is wrong.
Hello, I have a 2007 focus, my alternator is not charging but there is no
battery light ON, can you give me more details on fixing the wires issue.
@blown8950 Hope it goes well, thanks for posting.
I didn’t remove the power steering rack. I did remove the bolt from lower
mount to allow the alt to move past the heat shield attached to the rack.
Perall the factory provided paperwork and specs provided on my 2005 focus
that came with the car when I got it new from the dealership in 05 it is a
2.0 Engine. For the burning smell look very close at all your wires and
cables for acid corrosion and melting of the wires and replace them if they
are damaged. If you can’t find the problem visually then it could be
something that won’t present itself until you won’t have to guess any more.
And always look for lose connections.
Great video! if i didnt come across this video i was estimating at least 4
hours on this job. cut that time in HALF! Great Instructional! Thanks!
thanks for posting! i am just now working on a video for inspecting the
wiring, i have half of it uploaded and i am working on the other half now
I added the wire fix part just for people like me who didn’t know about the
hatch problems Like what you had with you’re wiring,I wall have other
video’s that explain some repairs and inspection of the hatch back. And as
always I’m glad I could help
Your welcome thanks for posting
click on the name 43autocar, then find uploads, the video will be there.
Much stronger people than I on here haha, not a hope in hell of getting it
off without tensioner coming off too, but i can see how others have! Thanks
for video saved we a lot of blood sweat and tears!!!!
The easy way to find out what the numbers are that you listed are for, is
to go to the Ford dealership and talk with their parts division. I don’t
have access to part number’s that they will have, and lot more information
on the part numbers and they should help you to determine what the are for.
Good video. Ugh! Not looking forward to this job.
great vid! only took me two hours and that included the trip to the parts
store, I would add there actually is only one “bolt” on the mount to the
engine block, the other two are studs that need to be removed before the
alternator will drop down you will need a 12pt 1/4″ socket to do this once
the 15mm nuts are removed. I also checked the hatch wiring and found 3
broken wires most likley the cause of my drain… thanks again!
thanks, when i removed the nuts the studs came with them. so i just backed
the nuts off the the studs after i pulled the alt and reset them after
replacing the stud in the holes
glad to help and to find out that it works for other models, thanks for
posting
your welcome. with this method, if i had a car lift i could do this job in
15 min, the video was the second time i pulled this same alt. i had it
tested at a rebuild shop and it passed, but i guess the hatch wires were
the cause of the problem and it drove for 3 months before i made this video.
I hate this car so much. I have had intermitant power outages and the pcm
has died on me, ford supposedily fixed it. But now the battery light is on
and sitting at a bank parking lot because the battery is dead. I read about
that wiring issue for the rd light and they supposedily checked it. But I
no longer trust them. So if you could tell a non handy person how to check
those wires. I’d be greatly appreciative.
Your welcome its good to know that adding that part made a difference.
Thanks for posting.
Before you do all sorts of parts changing, check the wiring inside the boot
at the rear hatch, if its a hatchback. all my problems were broken wires. I
soldered them back together and didn’t need an alternator. this is the best
way I’ve seen for the alt replacement! nice work!
Ya get to delve into this later today. The high is suppose to be around 28
WOOT!.