In this video, a step-by-step procedure is shown to remove the bed on a 1994 Ford Ranger with a 2.3L engine. The purpose is to gain access to the sending uni…
In this video, a step-by-step procedure is shown to remove the bed on a 1994 Ford Ranger with a 2.3L engine. The purpose is to gain access to the sending uni…
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No problem Frank, glad to help.
Very informative. Thanks for posting this.
Check out the video where the bed is being installed as the torque ratings
are in there. I believe but can’t swear to it, 40-65 lbs-ft rings a bell.
The size is explained at 1:08 in the video.
And if you’re asking what size, I believe it was T55.
what size torque is that
Thank you very much Oscar and I’m really glad that the video(s) was helpful
to you. Good luck on your repair and thanks for the sub!
Man. I have been looking and looking for a video like this and had no luck
in finding one till tonight. This was exactly what I was looking for. I
need to change out my fuel filler neck and didn’t know how to remove the
bed. but thanks to you sir I do now. Great video. You sir get 3 thumbs up
from me. You also just got a new subscriber. Thanks a lot for posting this
video it was really helpful.
I have a problem my ford ranger 1994. I smell something when I’m drive. My
chest is hurth every time I’m drive my ford ranger. Smell like agas and
oil. ?? Hope u help me
If I read your comment correctly, it sounds like you’re smelling gas and
oil. You may want to see if you have any obvious leaks under the hood. I
suspect that you’re picking up the fumes through the fresh air intake of
your ducting system. Take a look around the hood and see if you see any
leaks. Thanks for taking your time to watch the videos.
Nice
Thanks for watching Levi! If you want a really fast diagnosis, just hook up
a 150Ω resistor to the connector pins under the hood, which is where I
connected a pot. If the gauge reads full, you’re done. It’s time to pull
the tank or bed to get to the sending unit. Diagnosis shouldn’t take you
about a minute. Good luck with your repair and keep us all posted of your
results.
Notice in another video the two bolts in very rear were left on loose and
served as a hinge to allow lifting to front of bed just enough clearance to
service the fuel pump area. Certainly save some time…
I got the fuel pump put in with out any real issues. Thanks for the video
it helped out a lot. My next project on the truck it to replace the blender
door.
this right. Since you have a small tank on the bike, draining and refilling
it shouldn’t be too big of a chore to get the gauge to read correctly at
both ends. Keep us posted John on your project.
You’ve got a good eye! He’s from Pakistan.
I repair the filler neck with shoe repair glue and tire inner tube followed
by two clamps. I used a heat gun to soften the rigid filler neck to remount
it. I took some time to resurface/paint the chassis. Next is a set of rear
shocks while the truck bed is off.
Hi John, at this point I would try and see if it will break loose with your
3 foot pipe. You don’t have nothing to lose at this point. It just might
break loose. Worse that can happen is that the bolts break. If they do
break, you can replace them. If you still can’t budge them, try the freeze
product. Not sure about it as I’ve never used it. If that doesn’t work, go
for plan c. Keep us posted John how your project goes and I’m sure you’ll
get those bolts out.
yes, that’s a little high. I got mine for $69.95 from 1aauto d o t c o m.
Take a look over there. I wouldn’t put jb weld on rubber as it’s probably
not going to last.
Thanks for watching Dave! In the process now of doing some cleaning and
verification that the sending unit is truly bad. Thanks again for your
comment!
One other thought John. If you have an impact wrench try that if your 3
foot extenstion doesn’t work. Maybe with the pounding of the impact, it
will break those bolts loose. Again, good luck on your project and thanks
for watching!
I like how you’re hanging in there John and you definitely sound like a
go-getter. Don’t be discouraged with that last bolt as I know you’re going
to get it. Once you get that bed off, you’ll see how much easier it will be
to do the servicing on the fuel pump and sending unit. Does your vehicle
have a sending unit problem also? Thanks John for keeping us updated!
Finally got someone to help lift the bed over two feet It appears that the
top of the filler neck is cracked.. The locking ring is also fused/rusted
to the fuel pump. I think the only way to remove it is to use tile nipping
pliers to cut the ring in sections. The last bolt that was cut off by the
head is hanging. Since it happen to be the one near the filler neck I am
not sure how to get it off. Vise grips and pb-blaster not working…
Glad to hear that you got that joker out John. I’m a little confused when
you say the sending unit is fine, but you’re going to do diagnosis when you
get the bed off. I guess in your last sentence you mention that the float
arm was bent so maybe the fuel gauge isn’t accurate now. Thank you for your
comments about the tutorial and I’m glad that you like it. You should be
able to use it on your bike also. Keep us posted John on how it goes!
Thanks Levi for leaving a comment on your project. Good to hear that
everything went well. Maybe, you can post a video of the blender door. That
should be a nice project for others to see. Good luck…
Sure, you could do that to save time. Several reasons that I removed the
bed completely, which was no big deal was to have easier access to the
sending unit for replacement, easier to check for leaks, easier to diagnose
and it would be easier to film for the viewers to see the whole top side of
the unit. Thanks for watching John and I appreciate your comments!
your brother in law is from India or Pakistan??
Replacing the fuel pump today. Had a hard time with to bolt in the front
passenger side though. It took a good bit of torque to remove it, but got
it out. I’ll let you know how the process works out.
I have all but the front two bolts to remove. Rusty and seized on, the
pb-blaster solvent soaked the whole day. Was using 1/2 drive breaker bar
with 3 foot pipe was wary about applying too much torque to what would
happen. Plan B was to try the Locktite Freeze product but wasn’t sure if
freezing would work on such a long bolt. Plan C was to simply whiz off the
bolt head with a metal cutting wheel using a hand grinder then replacing
with a new one. What do you suggest? Thanks
I feel like a voyeur, watching you take your truck’s bed off. Nothing more
cool than seeing a truck, naked (grin).
Sounds like you’re coming along pretty good with your repair John. Good
luck and keep us posted of your progress. Thanks!
First, you’ll have to make sure that your sending unit reads correctly from
empty to full. Pull it out and move it up and down to make sure that the
gauge registers correctly. With that out of the way, you’ll have to bend
the rod with minor adjustments to so that the float will be at the correct
level. I think I would start with a fuel tank of gas and start there. Keep
adjusting until it reads correctly. Then drain the tank and see how the
gauge reads. It will be a trial and error to get…cont)
The price on replacing the filler pipe is $160, ouch. It looks JB Weld to
the rescue. tousleyfordparts
DOTcom/parts/1992/FORD/RANGER/SUPER/?siteid=214771&vehicleid=1137899§ion=FUEL%20SYSTEM&group=FUEL%20SYSTEM
I meant the bike may have a bent float arm. Sorry for the confusion. That
said, how does one make the actual adjustment to the float position, by the
ohm reading according to the specs?
Ya’ll retied Jarheads? Noticed while watching this video. I’m currently
going through diagnosis with the same issue right now. I just bought my
first ranger and the gas gauge is inop. Appreciate the video. Semper Fi.
Hi Levi. Sounds like you’ve got the worse over now. Good luck with your
repair and let us know how it turns out.
I have answer my question. Number 5 bolt came off with a little more
pb-blaster. Number 6 bolt was a no go…came you say…rounded off…f**k.
I guess it going to be plan C
Sounds like you’re making some progress there. Keep us posted of what you
work out John. Not sure if I can tell you anything that you already hadn’t
figured out. Look like you’ve got everything under control.
The last bolt was cut off in minutes using the angle grinder, whew. The
sending unit was working fine but haven’t yet move the truck bed to the
rear to do any diagnostics. I’m challenged to test it using your methods
and will probably replace both fuel pump and sending unit. Your tutorial
was excellent and will be helpful in diagnosing the fuel gauge problem on
my BMW R1100rsl motorcycle. I may bent the float rod when I last replaced
the fuel filter in the tank.