Replacement of superduty rear brakes. New rotors, rebuilt calipers w/brackets, new pads. Single rear wheel 4×4.
Replacement of superduty rear brakes. New rotors, rebuilt calipers w/brackets, new pads. Single rear wheel 4×4.
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Just did my rear brakes on this same truck… You can buy the bracket by
its self for 40 bucks, so if your pins on your brakes don’t move you do not
have to buy the whole caliper. Save your self the 60 bucks and just get the
bracket, new pins and a set of rubbers
Well crap. Great vid but the one thing I wanted to see wasn’t covered, the
replacement of the parking break shoes. Thanks for posting the vid though.
If I can offer a suggestion regarding issues with removing the old rotor
before you put the new rotor on drill 2 3/8″ holes 180 deg apart thru the
rotor between wheel studs run a tap thru so you can thread a bolt in and
the next time you need to remove the rotor just thread in 2 bolts and jack
the rotor right off
shouldn’t the bleeder be on the bottom??
Great video, thanks! I did my front a couple moths ago, about to start the
rear today.
I’ve done the fronts but I needed your video to see what I would be facing
if I decided to do the rear brakes. Excellent instruction with important
do’s and don’ts. Thank You
dumb ass below thinking this is front brakes . haha . Whos a
dumbass???Michael Johnson is ~!!
Great vid , Have done this many times myself . Front 4 by 4 hubs are a
treat..Not to mention ball joints on a f 350 super duty . uggg Thanks
6.0 f250 need to replace rear wheel studs how?
Parking brake for a single rear wheel superduty? Part of the video shows
the rear shoe assembly when I pull the rotor off. The shoes are adjusted
like any other drum brake. No don’t have a video. Look for drum brake
adjustment videos. Otherwise make sure the cables are lubed and tight. It’s
a mechanical system so check cables, then drums.
i had 92 f150 4.9 iline6 love that motor but i hate the brakes on it they
used shims and the get all bent and hard to put back in.Nice vid keep up
the good work.
Awesome vid dude. Helped a ton. Its cool to see how to get over little road
blocks that might otherwise make it a bit more of a headache to do brakes
on big trucks. keep it up.
nice gloves nancy
fuck snap off. craftsman is were is at.
@cpepper5702 one more thing. I envy your garage lol. Looks like you got a
nice setup
Great video!! Would you normally bang on the rotors like that if you were
reusing them? I was able to get my rotors loose by banging on the drum
surface area. I didn’t want to bang on the rotor since I was reusing
rotors. I wasn’t able to remove them though. Felt like emergency brake
shoes were sticking on a “lip” or something. How do you resolve something
like that? Thanks again.
Great video. Very helpful. Replaced my caliper, caliper bracket & brake
pads with no problems! Thanks.
That’s was great. Thanks.
are those cardone calipers if they are make sure u keep an eye on your
brake fluid because they are known to leak which is a pain in the ass ive
replaced one of mine already within 6 months
Very educational thanks!
Great Info and instructions, perfect for the DIY oriented. This video made
my day, now I can tackle my rear calipers with confidence. I going to start
tomorrow and do the front ones next week. Next video your front brake
video. Thank for your time and awesome video.
Dude…. Thanks for the video, nice work.
are the pistons on the rear calipers screwed in or do they just push in?
Really? An air chisel to remove the rotors? How many studs did you nick
with that air chisel?
what ever floats your boat..i dont wait on a stupid truck to fix or replace
i go to the sears store and walla new tool.snap off is just a name not a
better quality tool.
Those caliber mounting bolts are supposed to be torqued to 162 ft lb, not
125 FYI.
Really? I suppose you have never used good tools? It’s cool. Your probably
not a professional mechanic. I remember an old saying, “Only the rich can
afford to buy cheap things, because only the rich can afford to buy them
again when they break.” I buy the best because I can only afford to buy
them once. Have a nice day rey0176!
Right on. Ya, I usually use the anti-seize on the hub face.
great video man. I ended up working out of town and had a rear caliper go
out on me. I ended up changing it out in a parking lot (1 mile walk to pep
boys to get a new caliper). I bought new rotors but i couldn’t put them on
today. +1 to sketchy roadside repair.
Pardon my ignorance… what’s SGS?
A copper hammer or shot loaded dead blow mallet work well for loosening the
rotors if you’re going to reuse them. I like to put a thin coating of
anti-sieze compound around the inside hub of the rotor to make removal
easier the next time.
The video was from some time ago… but yes, last time I recall it was 18mm
and I used an 18mm socket. Not everyone can afford snap-on. The video is
general guide to doing the brakes. Everyone has their own way of doing it
and preference of tools. Thanks for your comments.
You can buy rebuild kits for the caliper pins. Completely worth it if
necessary
You should tap on that bolt and tighten it down some more with those two
copper washers to seat them properly. I learned that from a friend of mine.
Remember that next time.
That’s was a great video very helpful now I should have no problems
Push in. Sorry for delay. The handbrake is a separate drum inside the rear
disc.
awesome video thanks a million
Awesome video, great commentary and information!
Thank you fine sir!! Excellent information!!!
Thanks for the info. I stand corrected.
5/8″??? Everything on that truck is metric. (minus some bolts on the
Powerstroke engine)
Those core charges is a blatant robbery. I hate to pay extra money to those
greddy companies that want the stuff for free.
If you want to save the rotors, use a large 3 jaw puller and the rotors
will pop right off.
are you “SGS”?