http://ford-trucks.com/how-tos is the leading Ford F-150 and Super Duty resource for technical DIY guides and repairs. The differential is a key component of the F-150s, F-250s, or any other truck’s driveline. They take a lot of abuse and are generally pretty rugged. If you’ve got the time, tools, and confidence, you can swap it out yourself. Read the full article here http://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/a/ford-f150-how-to-replace-rear-differential-360784.
The differential is a key component of the F-150, F-250s or any other truck’s driveline. The rear differential is located within the rear axle and is the final step for power to reach the rear which allows for one wheel to spin completely independently of the other. They take a lot of abuse and are generally pretty rugged. If you’ve got the time, tools, and confidence, you can swap it out yourself.
This task of replacing the rear differential will take around three-to-five hours to complete. The difficulty is hard because any mistakes can ruin all the parts in the rear axle. Prior automotive repair experience is recommended for tackling this one. The price to do-it-yourself ranges from three-hundred to twelve-hundred dollars depending on where you source the parts needed from. However, a professional mechanic will charge you anywhere from four-hundred to six-hundred dollars.
The tools you’ll need are; an 8mm socket, 13 mm socket, a 3/8” socket, a socket set, a size appropriate shim driver, breaker bar, putty knife, silicon sealant, two jack stands, floor jack, tire iron, four wheel chocks, drain pan, and new differential oil.
Step 1 – Remove the Rear Wheels
Park on flat level ground and set the chocks behind the wheels. Set the emergency brake and put the truck in neutral.
Using the tire iron, loosen the lug nuts up.
Raise the vehicle up with the floor jack and position the jack stand under the rear axle.
Now completely remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
Now carefully lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
Step 2 – Prepare the Rear Differential
If your truck has an electronic locking differential then disconnect it and remove the bolt holding the mount onto the differential.
It is only there for models made between 2009 and 2014.
Position the drain pan under the differential.
Use the 13mm socket to remove the drain plug.
Let the fluid drain out into the pan.
Loosen up these bolts on the differential cover plate to release the pressure inside the differential.
Use the putty knife to carefully pry off the differential cover.
Take care not to gouge or damage the mating surface.
Let the differential finish draining out.
Step 3 – Remove the Rotors
Using the 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the calipers onto the rotors.
Pull the rotors off; if they are stuck you can hit the face of them with a hammer to break them free.
Step 4 – Remove the Rear Differential
Remove two bearing cap bolts on each side of the differential, and then remove the bearing caps.
Using a pry bar with a wooden block in between the bar and housing, pry out the rear differential carefully.
Step 5 – Install the New Differential
This part takes the most patience as any misalignment can destroy both the new differential and your axles.
Position the new differential in the housing.
If applicable, feed the electronic locking differential cable out of the back of the housing and secure it using the bolt you removed from it earlier.
Install the differential bearing shim on the left hand side, if your new differential did not come with one you will need to reuse the one from your original.
Seat the bearing cap on the left side with pressure, and then loosely install the two bearing cap bolts
Install the bearing shim on the right hand side.
Using your shim driver, make sure both bearing shims are properly seated.
Install bearing cap on the right hand side
Hand tighten the bearing cap bolts on both sides all the way and then torque to 77 ft.-lbs.
Step 6 – Install All the Other Removed Parts
For everything else, install is the reverse of removal.
Make sure to seat the axle shafts properly before trying to tighten them down.
Carefully scrape old sealant off the differential cover, and then apply a 1/8″ bead all the way around before re-installing. Be sure to tighten in a crisscross pattern.
Refer to your owner’s manual for the proper amount and type of differential oil and then refill the rear differential with fluid. Use a bottle that comes with a pump for easiest filling.
Reinstall the fill plug and torque it to be between 15 and 30 ft. lbs.
When you go for the first test drive, be sure to go slow and listen for any out of the ordinary noises, this can be a sign that something didn’t go correctly during the install. Be sure to change the differential fluid every two years or thirty-thousand miles, whichever comes first.
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