Having grinding/growling from the brake pedal with abs light on or off? Low speeds are the most common time for this false signal to occur. Check it out, mor…
Having grinding/growling from the brake pedal with abs light on or off? Low speeds are the most common time for this false signal to occur. Check it out, mor…
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
my front right brake drags sometime. the brake heats up, sticks and goes
back to normal. no light comes on. already replaced brake calipers. but
still sticks sometimes. could this the ABS system , or tone ring?
Thanks for posting this excellent video. With my new tone ring now
installed, those annoying lights are off and the ABS and 4 wheel drive are
working properly!
Thanks man nice video.
You’re the man! Awesome video, couldn’t be better!
They were roaring the car has 132k miles on it and it happened after. Turns
out the bearing was bsckwards on one side amd k drove onnit like that for
about a week and a half.
thanks for the great video! im having similar issues with my 2012 escape, I
checked all 4 of my abs tone rings all were tight and I couldnt find any
cracks. is there any other leads I could look into before I pay a garage to
run a diagnostic scan on it? thanks again
Thank you for the great video. I have the same problem with my 06 Mazda
Tribute. I going to fix it myself now that I saw how easy it is. Thank
again.
Thanks for the video. I had just given the local shop the go-ahead to
replace a ring for $280.99 and then google brought me to your video. I
called them off and will attempt to replace it myself.
For folks doing this at home, what’s the best way to support the vehicle
while replacing one of the front toner rings? Where should I jack up the
vehicle?
Thanks!
Thank you for the video and instructional commentary. Would’ve never
thought about doing this job myself without your “help”. My tone ring slid
right on after I cleaned up the mating surface. I used a little thread
locker on it. Bad idea? I was worried it was going to spin and give false
reading…
Thanks for the video. You saved me some money
Appreciate that dude. Very detailed. Thanks
After you told me it was backwards I replaced it and abs light went away
but those traction control blinking happens till this day
I called ford today for the traction control problem in my 2009 ford focus
and they said when replacing hubs and bearing I need to reprogram the
module after? Or it might be a bad traction control sensor causing that..
what do u think?
Same way it was taken out, align splines and it slides through. No risk at
all use air hammer with pointed tip and put right into divit in axle thats
why its there, axle is very strong. Its actually better to use and air
hammer than a sledge on the axle end with the nut on. Are you talking the
rh axle out of the ptu? There are no u joints. The axle is held in place by
a bracket and 2 13mm nuts after that they just slide out.
One question…What is the actual source of the grinding noise? Is anything
being damaged because of it? It sounds like my brakes are getting torn up.
Will blue loc tite be fine for the axel nut? I have seen on other video
where they remove spinel by just removing one bolt on the arm and later do
not use grease but heat and then use crazy glue to seal the edges to I
guess to help seal the rust out . I have also seen some say do not use
grease in any form since if the ring slips it will hurt the sensor. I know
you do it the way you show but wonder if you see any issues with the other
method? Thanks
Axle nut torque for an 2008 is 221 lb-ft, front arm bolt spec is 85 ft lbs
The fact its not setting a code for abs sensor ckt tells me it’s in the
bearing ands it exciter ring inside.
What a friggin fail @ 6:14 in the video dude. lol
Do me a favor, the next one you do 10 months from now mister expert try it
my way, you will be pleasantly surprised! If you know so much and can fix
everything why you watching instructional videos on my channel? Ya know
over 1.400 people watched my video not a peep, until you come along with a
chip on your shoulder. Like I said watch what you say you may embarrass
yourself…. Thanks for watching!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your the best!!!!
kewrock if you eased up a little this could be a good debate but you have
turned me off by your crude way of expressing yourself.
So I changed hub and bearing and abs light turned off but occasionally
while driving traction control blinks and doesnt allow me to accelerate any
ideas??
No. there is no alignment at the strut bolts for Escape. I said “if”.
Either the T-Birds and Cougars or my Volvo have elongated holes for a
camber adjustment. I can’t remember which at this point, I’ve done the
struts in all of them over the years.
Can I flip it without buying a new one?
I removed the bearing man and the black portion of it was facing in..
another thing that happens I guess it thinks my wheel hydroplanes and my
traction control blinks and doesnt allow me to accelerate.. any ideas what
it could be?? My cars apart right now so anything will help
Yup
Yes use blue Loctite and torque to spec. Read my other post on pulling “the
one bolt” idea not good. Use thin film of grease to ease it one, whenever
something is pressed on it is greased as are bearings when you press them
on. Hard crazy glue will not do anything to stop the rust not needed. The
grease will not let the ring come loose, we are not sliding it on we are
pressing it on. The tone rings are loose and wobble when they fail, never
seen one chew into a sensor, ever.
Thanks. OK so I did the job as the other guy did. I was not sure the spec
on the lower arm bolt. Can you over tighten, With the car on the tire “at
rest. I could use the size torque wrench I had. Using 1/2” wrench I made
tight but thought I heard a creak or crack. Is there anything that could
crack on that bushing? Thanks
I work for a Ford Dealer too. This is indeed gravy. You must work hourly,
by the time you finish talking about the tone ring, the job could have
already been done.
Ya know I was going to delete and Block you for your negative comments, but
I am going to use your insult ridden post as an example. First thing is
unless you work on Ford’s everyday and have done 50+ of these in the past 9
years like I have, I suggest you watch what you say as you are embarrassing
yourself! Read On……….
Just for my education, why would doing MORE than hand tight damage the arm
bushing? Thanks OH and when you take off the ABS sensor, does it only go
back one way and no worry of having any adjustment issues. Not having taken
one off I am just trying to know if it has to aligned just right or if the
way it goes back has a way to put it in the proper position That was why
one bolt approach appeared less stressful to me if it was safe to do.
Thanks for clarifying. I do find it all educational.
Thank you for your prompt reply and advice!
If the black side of the bearing is against the abs sensor as it should be,
then I would say the exciter ring inside of the bearing is bad, either from
the factory or from the install process. At this point I would change the
bearing.
Thank you for making this. I had a mechanic scan my 2008 Escape and told me
he thought it was the ABS Module (At least $600 part). I took a look under
my car and saw that both tone rings were cracked and one was actually off,
just hanging there! I don’t know how he missed it or they were just trying
to rip me off! I appreciate your video!
First off if you have ever pulled a lower arm from a pinch bolt setup as on
these you will know they will not come out easy at all. You will fight and
beat on the arm to get them out all while ruining the ball joint, lower
control arm, and most likely the lower ball joint boot by going the easy
way and using a pickle fork. That is some shoddy work and not how I run.
Great to hear the new bearing fixed it. Are you sure the traction light
blinking isn’t just from a normal traction control event where it limits
engine speed? Is it taking off from a stop where wheel spin could occur and
this is just normal, or is it just cruising down the road?
Awesome tutorial! I will be replacing my tone ring on Tuesday, at the auto
hobby shop at my local Air Force Base. So I will have access to all the
same tools that you used. Really glad I did not go through with following
the advice from some of the other videos people posted showing themselves
heating up the ring. And thanks for stating all the torque settings.
No it’s very hard to break anything in there.
if you didn’t pound the control arm or have to pry and pound your are lucky
my friend that’s a good thing made the job very easy. Yes you max out the
axle nut and some firm taps yes, why we talking about this part? Yes once
the strut and knuckle is not secured it will move freely yes. I pulled a
simple tension clip for brake line nothing else real simple nothing to mess
up why is that so hard and dangerous? Again I am not showing how I did it,
I am showing how it is to be done.
Yeah I just noticed that, bad editing on my part. the top bolt need the box
end to hold but the lower one was tight enough in the knuckle that it
didn’t so I just zipped that one out and never moved the wrench. Good catch!
If its installed correctly and when the abs sensor is installed and you
look at it from the backside its right against it like it should, I would
have to say the exciter ring inside the bearing is bad, happens allot on
aftermarket rotors and bearings that have exciter rings. Never had a
problem with the Ford stuff though, These aftermarket bearings? Yes its
seeing the rf spinning normally and thinks the left front is standing still
that’s why.
I need to change the rear tone rings on my 07 Ford Explorer, whats the best
place to free the control arm to allow me to knock out the axel? Also,
should I support the car from the rear control arm to “unload” the
suspension?
Can I safely reuse the axel nut on an 08 Escape FWD? I see conflicting info
on line with many reusing it but others saying don’t reuse it. But I have
trouble finding the part number. It appears you can reuse it and not have
it loosen, right. Otherwise do you know the part number of a new nut? Thanks
Actually I was referring to the driveshaft where it connect to the front
differential. There are six bolts holding it on and once those come out
it’s supposed to slid out. No luck though. However, I picked up a u-joint C
clamp press thing and replaced the u-joint underneath the truck. Worked
like a charm. Good videos though. Looking forward to seeing more.