Follow along as Mike installs a new axle shaft assembly in a 2011 Ford Edge for an ABS wheel speed issue. This procedure, and ABS problem, are similar across the 2007-2014 Ford Edge, Ford Escape, Ford Explorer, Lincoln MKX, Mercury Mariner, and more. Rust causes the ABS tone ring to crack causing intermittent abs activation at low speeds. This video includes the step-by-step procedure with torque specs. Thanks for watching and enjoy!
Stay up to date with GoTech!
• https://www.facebook.com/GoTechAutomotive
• https://www.instagram.com/gotechautomotive/
• https://www.tiktok.com/@gotechautomotive
• https://gotech.com/
00:00 Introduction
01:15 Testing ABS Problem
03:02 Visual Inspection
06:40 Wheel Removal
08:20 Brake Removal
10:23 Ball Joint Disassembly
11:53 Remove Sway Bar Link
12:54 Axle Nut Removal
13:57 Remove Tie Rod End
15:50 CV Axle Removal
20:50 Axle Seal Replacement
25:10 Install New Axle
29:54 Torque Ball Joint
31:02 Torque Tie Rod End
32:20 Install Sway Bar Link
33:20 Torque Brakes
35:20 Torque Axle Nut
39:02 Verify Repair
40:02 Conclusion
#ford #fixed #cars #mechanic #autorepair #diy #gotech #automotive #learning #abs #
){kind=link}
I don't know who your talking to but you'd get more work done if you close your mouth a little more and hurry up every chance you get. Now get out there and make us some money…
Pack the seal spring with grease to keep it in place during installation.
Be careful tightening that large shaft nut by pushing your torque wrench FORWARD like that (37:55) — if it's a small enough car, you can push the car right off the hoist. Next time make sure you are parallel to the ground with your torque wrench, so you can pull DOWNWARD on it for the final torque spec.. You might be surprised how easily you can push a car off of a jack or jack stands– or off of the hoist. Just kinda be mindful what direction you are pushing all that force.
Next time, you can just put the spring back on your seal (as long as it wasn't damaged or stretched, etc.)– and then you pack that spring with grease; just fill the entire back side of the seal with grease to hold the spring in place.
I thought the saying "hope I ate my wheaties" was just an Aussie saying.
Good job Mike. I like to twist the caliper on the rotor after the mounting bolts are removed to push the pads back. It's quicker and no chance of marking the rotor or pads. I like your diagnostic skills & teaching. Always something to learn in this trade.
Mike were all here to support you! When torquing the axal Nut one thing I have figured out is screw 2 lugnuts down on 2 studs then the prybar on them. That saves the thread. Another thing find vinal tubing that slides on 2 studs as well~Thanks Much
Spreading the lower ball joint clamp is risky. They will break fairly easy on some cars.
great vid mike i usually try to seperate at the strut bolts if there are no cams… hey ive done that bushing in the case a couple times its a pain
A very thorough walkthrough, Mike! I once had a younger tech ask me if a few small dabs of silicone or wheel bearing grease could be used to hold the spring on the seal but even though it was good thinking on his side I recommended that he not do that (and to just take extra care driving it in) since the silicone or grease, even at a small amount, could cause an issue with the clutch packs or other internal components.
That trans needs new fluid anyways by the time doing a seal or axle. I like to use a chain around lower control arm to pry them down fwiw. I always put a little grease on the spring of seal to hold it in place. I had to do that TSB before and that bushing is a pain without the tool
Nicely done my friend.
Good repair Mike! I thought that axle shaft would give you trouble coming out of the transaxle but you got lucky.
Please use gloves on your hands.
What was the replacement axle shaft, Ford or aftermarket?
Another great video, keep 'em coming!
Good job Mike. Thanks. I usually pack a little grease in the seal to keep the spring from jumping out. Seems to work for me.
lovley job step by step instrection ill hit the like button for you TO
This would show a missing tooth or even enlarged signal for cracked areas. This is easy diag because you can see the tone ring. In other cases you need a lab scope to confirm. This happens a lot in GM wheel bearings which are magnetic reluctors just behind it. Those magnetic reluctors tend to brake off and do something similar like this but more severe as the module things the wheels locked up, etc which simulates a tire slipping so it locks the opposite tire that is moving to control the vehicle, etc.
Great job as usual Mike, except, once more not wearing gloves… gloves police here! 🙂
Also, having a bit of OCD, I'd have sprayed some brake cleaner on that brake rotor after handling it with my hands.
Love it how clean your shop looks and how detailed oriented you are.
Good vid Mike!
RTV is a process, not a product.