For starters….don’t wait so long to change plugs. Second….don’t buy
cheap plugs. Motorcraft is not that much and Ford loves em. Doing these two
above things, and taking the plugs out with a SPARK PLUG SOCKET, which has
a rubber boot in it to hang onto the plug, will ensure no broken plugs. :)
Did mines about a month ago. I had 135,000 miles on my 2005 ford
expedition and I broke three plugs. That extractor tool is a big help. And
instead of using the motorcraft plugs, I bought the Champions Double
Platnium spark plug. Each of those Champions costed me about $25. I was
trippin out when I spent $200 just for sparkplugs. But it was well worth
it. No misfire and don’t ever have to worry about the sparkplugs breaking
again because it is a one piece design. I still put a very light coat of
anti seize on my sparkplugs. Also my engine light went off too and that is
a big plus. Now my expedition runs like a champ.
i found a fuel injection service helps ALOT before doing this job, and i
eman one that hooks to the fuel rail and pushes the fuel through injectors!
but thes can be a bitch, not s bad as a hemi tho, man i hate doing plugs on
them….
How I wish I had seen this video before I got started on what would have
been a simple job on pretty much every other engine! Ford, what the eff
were you thinking?! All they had to do was sit the plugs a bit deeper in
the head and avoid this 3 piece plug nonsense! Anyway, had I known to
soak the plugs in carb cleaner and have the engine hot when breaking them
loose I might not have broken 2 of the first 5 I did. On the 3 I have left
in the rear of the engine I’m definitely going to let it soak in the carb
cleaner for a bit before heating up the engine and working the plugs, maybe
I’ll get lucky. I really don’t want to have to extract the 2 rear plugs
next to firewall. Matco also makes this tool and it is about $80 on
Ebay/Amazon.
Changed 7 spark plugs perfectly around 6 months ago. Used the the new 1
piece plugs. The final plug we took to dealership to take out because it
was so far back under engine compartment and there is little space to get a
good angle on the plug. Charged around $250.00 to fix after plug broke.
Lately truck was missing so we took it to dealership. Same spark plug is
broke and had burned the boot, which was the same one they fixed
previously. $245.00 later, i’m praying they used a 1 piece spark plug.
The plug was almost $20.00 from dealership.
Side note, they wanted to check and re-torque the other 7 spark plugs for
$304.00- labor only. LOL next time i will do it myself with the special
tool.
Heard nothing but bad stories about changing these plugs out so I have put
it off as long as I could. I now have 185000 miles on the original plugs
and I’m starting to experience some power loss so it is probably about
time. Hopefully waiting so long doesn’t compound the problem.
Nice video, being a ford tech for 15 years i have found the best way that
works for me is remove the 7mm head bolts from the coils then do a fuel
injector flush and rev the engine up multiple times getting the engine hot
as possible, then working on each cylinder 1 at a time. remove coil and
slowly work the plug back and forth keeping the rest of the coils in place
until removal to help retain heat. remove all plugs FIRST then worry about
installing after all is removed. work fast
Dan, I noticed the ground strap is broke on the bottom from the tool
pushing the porcelin into it, and part of that strap is in the cylinder,
are ya worried about that hangin a valve or damaging the cylinder at all?
Let me know, cause it scares me on my 06. By the way, great video bud,
helps alot…..Thanx
Just wondering, was the engine warmed or heated up to operating temp before
attempting to remove the plugs? I’ve seen people on here heating the engine
and then using impacts to remove and ratchets to install. Just curious, I
have to do my cylinder 1 which has a misfire on it and it’s pointing to the
plug as moving the coil did not move the misfire. I bet somebody didn’t use
Motorcraft plugs which I am also told is a big no-no with these motors.
I have a tip but it requires a whole lot of patience. I warmed the engine
up to operating temp. I then soaked the first plug using carb cleaner after
an hour and removed it. I then re-installed that plug and coil and warmed
up the engine again to do the next one and so on. It seems keeping the
engine hot was the trick, even though all the TSB say to do the opposite.
Go figure, I guess a warn engine loosens what ever has built up around the
plug enough to allow it to spin without a break.
Sorry about them all breaking. Idiot Ford engineers. Our 2008 Expedition
emergencyehicle will soon reach 100K. What solvent is best. PB blaster? Do
you first slightly tighten before loosening? Would rapidly tapping on the
socket help? I was considering using the vibrating engraver to see if that
helps. Thank you, Daniel, for you video and advice.
im tryn to remove a spark plug on my 5.4 but the thread part came out but
not the tip of the spark plug cant use the tool remover what should or can
do to fix my problem
I’m glad I’ve always had cars where the previous owner didn’t baby, the
plugs on my truck have been replaced a few times on the Carfax I got when I
bought it. I definitely like tools with good warranties too!
We used Napa tool SER 4663, but challenge is breaking up the porcelain
enough to have enough room to thread the tap before we can use this Napa
tool. To break up the porcelain, we used a drill bit and hammered the drill
bit onto the porcelain to break up the porcelain, then using vaccum suction
tool (which we taped small enough rubber hose to the end of the suction
tool in order to insert into the cylinder) and vaccumed up all the broken
pieces from the chamber. We repeated above steps as much..
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Does 2013 and 2014 ford cars still use these stupid triton spark plugs?
For starters….don’t wait so long to change plugs. Second….don’t buy
cheap plugs. Motorcraft is not that much and Ford loves em. Doing these two
above things, and taking the plugs out with a SPARK PLUG SOCKET, which has
a rubber boot in it to hang onto the plug, will ensure no broken plugs. :)
Not one of Ford’s better ideas.
Should also replace with Champion plugs, they are an one piece design
unlike motorcraft’s
Did mines about a month ago. I had 135,000 miles on my 2005 ford
expedition and I broke three plugs. That extractor tool is a big help. And
instead of using the motorcraft plugs, I bought the Champions Double
Platnium spark plug. Each of those Champions costed me about $25. I was
trippin out when I spent $200 just for sparkplugs. But it was well worth
it. No misfire and don’t ever have to worry about the sparkplugs breaking
again because it is a one piece design. I still put a very light coat of
anti seize on my sparkplugs. Also my engine light went off too and that is
a big plus. Now my expedition runs like a champ.
i found a fuel injection service helps ALOT before doing this job, and i
eman one that hooks to the fuel rail and pushes the fuel through injectors!
but thes can be a bitch, not s bad as a hemi tho, man i hate doing plugs on
them….
How I wish I had seen this video before I got started on what would have
been a simple job on pretty much every other engine! Ford, what the eff
were you thinking?! All they had to do was sit the plugs a bit deeper in
the head and avoid this 3 piece plug nonsense! Anyway, had I known to
soak the plugs in carb cleaner and have the engine hot when breaking them
loose I might not have broken 2 of the first 5 I did. On the 3 I have left
in the rear of the engine I’m definitely going to let it soak in the carb
cleaner for a bit before heating up the engine and working the plugs, maybe
I’ll get lucky. I really don’t want to have to extract the 2 rear plugs
next to firewall. Matco also makes this tool and it is about $80 on
Ebay/Amazon.
Work at a Ford dealership. We use 1/2 impact to remove these plugs. Works
great rarely use the extractor tool.
Changed 7 spark plugs perfectly around 6 months ago. Used the the new 1
piece plugs. The final plug we took to dealership to take out because it
was so far back under engine compartment and there is little space to get a
good angle on the plug. Charged around $250.00 to fix after plug broke.
Lately truck was missing so we took it to dealership. Same spark plug is
broke and had burned the boot, which was the same one they fixed
previously. $245.00 later, i’m praying they used a 1 piece spark plug.
The plug was almost $20.00 from dealership.
Side note, they wanted to check and re-torque the other 7 spark plugs for
$304.00- labor only. LOL next time i will do it myself with the special
tool.
Heard nothing but bad stories about changing these plugs out so I have put
it off as long as I could. I now have 185000 miles on the original plugs
and I’m starting to experience some power loss so it is probably about
time. Hopefully waiting so long doesn’t compound the problem.
Ford now recommends 60,000 now
5.4 USED TO BLOW PLUGS OUT NOW THEY BREAK OFF
oh ok i must of mis understood what you where saying in the vid. Good job
on them plugs i know Triton’s suck to work on
I thought my 02 Triton was a pain to work on…this is why I am not getting
another Ford truck,this is the dumbest shit I’ve seen Ford do!!
I would use kroil instead of carb and choke cleaner.
doing it with the engine warm can cause you to pull the threads
What a bitch it is to do it on a 6.8. But its over with now and had no
problems!
This is the exact reason I don’t like Ford’s Triton engines. Run great, but
are a nightmare when it comes to jsut routine maintinence.
Nice video, being a ford tech for 15 years i have found the best way that
works for me is remove the 7mm head bolts from the coils then do a fuel
injector flush and rev the engine up multiple times getting the engine hot
as possible, then working on each cylinder 1 at a time. remove coil and
slowly work the plug back and forth keeping the rest of the coils in place
until removal to help retain heat. remove all plugs FIRST then worry about
installing after all is removed. work fast
use an impact and you wont break a single one.
Thanks for the vid. Now i hate my ford even more.
Any issues with the porcelain or part of the ground strap getting onto the
combustion chamber?
…as needed to ensure we had enough room to tap the electrode shell.
Finally we extracted the shell.
Dan, I noticed the ground strap is broke on the bottom from the tool
pushing the porcelin into it, and part of that strap is in the cylinder,
are ya worried about that hangin a valve or damaging the cylinder at all?
Let me know, cause it scares me on my 06. By the way, great video bud,
helps alot…..Thanx
Does some of the broken porcelain fall into the engine? If so will there be
any harm?
If you change them at the proper intervals you won’t have this problem…
AT ALL
the first tool you use after its broke to push it down. do you tighten it
all the way down or no. Thanks
You trust Snap-On stuff, but the funny thing is they don’t manufacture that
tool so it doesn’t matter who it comes from.
Just wondering, was the engine warmed or heated up to operating temp before
attempting to remove the plugs? I’ve seen people on here heating the engine
and then using impacts to remove and ratchets to install. Just curious, I
have to do my cylinder 1 which has a misfire on it and it’s pointing to the
plug as moving the coil did not move the misfire. I bet somebody didn’t use
Motorcraft plugs which I am also told is a big no-no with these motors.
I have a tip but it requires a whole lot of patience. I warmed the engine
up to operating temp. I then soaked the first plug using carb cleaner after
an hour and removed it. I then re-installed that plug and coil and warmed
up the engine again to do the next one and so on. It seems keeping the
engine hot was the trick, even though all the TSB say to do the opposite.
Go figure, I guess a warn engine loosens what ever has built up around the
plug enough to allow it to spin without a break.
Yes,I have an 02 and they don’t break…it’s the newer ones.
the same exact thing happened to my dads but he waited til 150k.
what is the name of the tool you are using??
is this your truck?
Sorry about them all breaking. Idiot Ford engineers. Our 2008 Expedition
emergencyehicle will soon reach 100K. What solvent is best. PB blaster? Do
you first slightly tighten before loosening? Would rapidly tapping on the
socket help? I was considering using the vibrating engraver to see if that
helps. Thank you, Daniel, for you video and advice.
im tryn to remove a spark plug on my 5.4 but the thread part came out but
not the tip of the spark plug cant use the tool remover what should or can
do to fix my problem
damn man this truck and your pics on FB makes me miss the 07 F-150 Lariat
we had. 147K on it. miss it man! great truck!
What a pain just to change plugs now days.
I’m glad I’ve always had cars where the previous owner didn’t baby, the
plugs on my truck have been replaced a few times on the Carfax I got when I
bought it. I definitely like tools with good warranties too!
I hear an impact doesnt break all of them
Dude, your thumbnail looks just like mine LOL
I always change my plugs halfway thru the manufacturers recommendation. 99
x out of 100 the plugs are shot then and need to be replaced.
We used Napa tool SER 4663, but challenge is breaking up the porcelain
enough to have enough room to thread the tap before we can use this Napa
tool. To break up the porcelain, we used a drill bit and hammered the drill
bit onto the porcelain to break up the porcelain, then using vaccum suction
tool (which we taped small enough rubber hose to the end of the suction
tool in order to insert into the cylinder) and vaccumed up all the broken
pieces from the chamber. We repeated above steps as much..