DIY: Ford Ranger Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

DIY: Ford Ranger Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

Video tutorial on how to replace the blower motor resistor on a Ford Ranger. This is a fairly common issue amongst Rangers, Explorers, and most likely the Mazda B series trucks as well. The main symptom of a failing blower motor resistor is that your fan speed will only work on the high setting. If your fan doesn’t work at all, then there is most likely a blown fuse, issue with the blower motor, hvac panel problem, or a fault in the wiring. This particular vehicle I am working with here today is a 1998 Ford Ranger, so there maybe some variations between the years and models.

Website: http://4diyers.com
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers
Google Plus: https://plus.google.com/+4DIYers
Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/
Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com
Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-8mm 3/8” drive socket
-3” 3/8” drive extension
-3/8” drive ratchet
-blower motor resistor
-dielectric grease
-interlocking pliers

Procedure:
-start by opening the hood of your vehicle and then locate the blower motor resistor which is on the passenger side, along the firewall where the blower motor is located
-down towards the bottom by the inner fender arch you will see a large electrical connector which is connected to the blower motor resistor
-using an 8mm socket, 3” extension and a 3/8” ratchet, remove the two bolts holding in the unit
-this can be a fairly tight spot and you don’t necessarily have to remove the electrical connector first
-unfortunately I am unable to remove the electrical connect, I’m assuming the contacts are corroded which is a common issue amongst these trucks
-you can also disconnect the two upper electrical connectors to gain a little more room
-using the assistance of a couple interlocking pliers and a few minutes of wiggling the connector I managed to get it loose
-if yours are mildly corroded, you can allow the connector to soak for a couple hours in vinegar, then clean up using electrical contact cleaner
-if the connector is too far gone, purchase a replacement hardness and solder it into place
-reinstall the new resistor and apply some dielectric grease to the connector to help prevent corrosion
-connect the remaining connectors if removed and then test

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

2,238
Like
Save


Comments

Mr. BubbaHyde says:

Thank You for this video, straight forward and very helpful….will be doing this today!

Paul Govensky says:

Well I guess I'm barking up the wrong tree. My issue is not heat. I can see the blend door move so that tells me the vacuum is working properly. I have replaced everything dealing with coolant, thermostat, hoses, water outlet.

FootballStealth says:

Had the same problem on my VW Golf mk2

Write a comment