DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Video tutorial on how to replace and preload the front wheel bearing on a Ford Ranger 2wd. If you are removing the wheel bearing, you must remove the caliper carrier, which I do have a video on that particular procedure. This video can also be used for wheel bearing maintenance beyond replacement as wheel bearings do need to be checked and lubricated about every 12,000miles/20,000km or once a year. Proper maintenance intervals will ensure the wheels bearings do not have any premature failures. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-axle stand
-large interlocking pliers
-pliers
-johnson/breaker bar
-15mm socket
-13mm socket
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-hammer
-wheel bearing grease
-two cotter pins
-degreaser
-rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)

Procedure:
-the caliper and carrier must be removed in order to remove the wheel bearing
-remove the grease cap using interlocking pliers
-remove the cotter pin which holds the nut into place
-remove the metal retaining cap
-remove the 24mm nut holding the hub assembly into place
-pull the rotor back until the flat washer is flush with the spindle shaft, then push it back
-this will allow us to easily remove the washer and outer wheel bearing
-remove the rotor and hub assembly
-new bearings do come with an outer race which is not needed considering the hub assemblies already have them installed
-take a glob of grease and place it in the palm of your hand
-push the grease throughout the bearing, removing any empty spaces or pockets
-once satisfied, place the inner bearing in its location, then apply some more grease against the bearing and around the edge of the seal
-place the seal in its location and gently tap it in using a hammer on the elevated side
-remove the old grease using some paper towel on the spindle shaft
-use a degreaser if needed as well
-using a wire brush, clean the sealing surface at the end of the spindle shaft
-remove any loose debris which can contaminate the bearing assembly
-give the spindle shaft a final wipe down and install the assembly
-rotate the rotor to help seat the seal, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
-rotate the hub which will help seat the bearing while tightening the nut to 17 to 25 ft lbs
-if you are using an inch pound torque wrench such as me, it will be 204 to 300 inch pounds
-back the nut off half a turn
-retorque nut 18 to 20 inch pounds
-make sure there is no play, install the metal retainer cap and orient the cap so the holes line up for the cotter pin
-install a new cotter pin and bent over the ends
-reinstall the grease cap and gently tap it into place using a hammer

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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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Comments

jason richey says:

Thanks so much! I came in from the garage to figure out how to get the race into the hub… never would have occurred to me that it wasn't needed. I'd still be out there banging on it without your tutorial.

Haxpatty says:

So i just bought new rotors and bearings for my ranger. Do the races usually come pre installed into the rotors?

Matthew Chafin says:

Are you not supposed to pack the outter bearing with grease?

David Anthony says:

Hi could you reply to me via email I have some questions? Dalovesls3@gmail.com

Oz M. says:

I have a 2wd Ford explorer is it the same process?

Randy Lahey says:

damn salt country sucks

Romulan112 says:

I have a question. How important is the grease cap? I didn't think to use Channel Locks so instead, I used screwdriver/hammer and eventually pryed it out. Trouble is, At one point the screw driver starts to go through the round diameter of the cap. I was thinking about using it again to save $14 and apply RTV sealant along the bead/seal to keep it airtight.
Someone told me it just a dust cap but I think more being its a seal and U have an open bearing behind it. Imagine water makings its way inside?

A Lilkrazyndn says:

That doesn't look too difficult for a DIY'er

RALLYFANCLUBn1 says:

what moment of tightening of a nut – a Front Wheel Bearing ford F 150 2WD .2001 year?

davren56 says:

Your replacement rotor did not have the ABS tone ring. Your ABS isn't going to work. 🙂

Exterminence says:

Hi, what is your opinion on OEM vs aftermarket parts? I'm about to do the same thing to my truck as you did to this one, however I have a 2000 Expedition. OEM parts are now considered by Ford as obsolete, but this Ford parts guy was able to track a pair of hub and bearing assemblies in Kansas complete with new studs and the ABS sensor, but no bearings!! At a wonderful price of $387 a pair. He did give me an O'Reilly part number and they do have a pair in stock, but when I asked the worker who manufactured the part the guy didn't have any reference to speak of. But they were a little over $90 for the pair. But my concern is this: at 1/3 the price compared to OEM, what if they're made in China?? And these are very important parts for a heavy SUV like an Expedition. I just don't know what to do, go aftermarket or OEM??

Fred Smith says:

I notice what appears to be a braided nylon rope upper/center — whats it holding down/up?

Christina Lauer says:

was just quoted $2-300 to get mine replaced. seeing as the parts are only $50ish and you make it look so easy, I think I'll do it myself! wish me luck

Harold Bowers says:

What makes this video so good is that it gets directly to the point without a lot of story time nonsense!!

Chantz Fabz says:

Great video man!!! Good job imma go replace mine this weekend it's clunking all over the place you're the man I'll be subscribing

juman islam says:

fantastic clear and concise tutorial. my friends golf mk V wheel bearing needs replacing I noticed yesterday. what happens if you don't get it replaced?

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