DIY: Ford Ranger 2.5L 4cyl Engine Oil Replacement

Filter (Canadian link): http://bit.ly/2v8npIl
Filter (US link): http://bit.ly/2quWSAc
US website: www.autopartsway.com
Canadian website: www.autopartsway.ca

Video tutorial on how to replace the engine oil and oil filter on a Ford Ranger equipped with a 2.5L inline 4 cylinder. This particular truck I am working with here today is a 1998. Oil replacement intervals specific by Ford’s owner’s manual is 5000 to 8000 km or 3000 to 5000 miles for conventional oil. They don’t list synthetic, but as a generalized specification it’s 7000 to 10000 km or 4000 to 6000 miles. Oil weights will be based on your climate or current season. Based on the owner’s manual, Ford recommends a 5W-30 with an oil specification of WSS-M2C153-G.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-engine oil
-oil filter
-3/8” drive ratchet
-15mm 3/8” socket
-clean rags
-oil drain pan
-drive on ramps

Procedure:
-start by warming up the engine to full operating temperature and safely elevating the front of the vehicle
-locate the drain plug which is on the passenger side of the oil pan
-using a 15mm socket with a 3/8” drive ratchet, remove the plug, ensure the oil pan is directly below the plug
-once that plug is loose, remove it by hand
-typically what I like to do is once that plug is unthreaded, pull it away quickly by hand so you can minimize the amount of oil on your hand
-this will take a couple minutes until that oil drains fully
-we can move the pan over once most of the oil has drained so it’s directly under the filter
-the oil filter is on the intake manifold side of the engine and I find it’s easiest to access from the top of the engine
-just make sure not to burn your air on the engine when it’s hot
-what I like to do is loosen the filter first and back it off a couple turns, this will allow any oil to drain from the filter directly down to the pan
-if you are having problems loosening the filter, you can use a filter wrench, strap wrap, or interlocking pliers
-then remove the filter and dump the remaining oil in the pan below
-you can flip it around and then pick the filter straight up through the top of the engine bay
-pair up the new and new filter to ensure they are the same
-clean the filter gasket mounting surface on the side of the block to remove any dirt which may cause sealing issues
-apply a film of oil using your finger and the new oil to the filter seal
-this will provide lubrication and allow the filter gasket to seat correctly
-spin the filter on, make sure you don’t get any dirt on the gasket
-once that filter gasket makes contact with the block, it should be tightened 3/4 of a turn more
-under tightening can lead to leakage and over tightening can also lead to leaking from a deformed gasket
-now back under the truck, clean the sealing surface for the drain plug
-this truck uses a rubber gasket around the drain plug. clean the gasket if needed and inspect for any damage
-if damage is found, then a replacement is required, otherwise you can reuse the old plug
-the torque specification for the drain plug is 15 to 25 ft/lbs
-clean around the oil cap on the valve cover and then remove
-fill the engine with oil and then check the dipstick which is located on the driver’s side of the engine next to the upper intake
-typically I like to keep the oil level towards the full line as some oil will fill up the filter too
-add more oil if need and once done start the engine and check for any leaks, then remove the vehicle from the ramps
-old oil can be dumped back into an empty oil jug and taken to your local auto parts store or auto repair shop where they can have it properly disposed

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