Customer Drove 6 HOURS…for THIS? (Ford No-Crank REPAIR + Lights!)

Customer Drove 6 HOURS…for THIS? (Ford No-Crank REPAIR + Lights!)

Customer overnighted a brand-new Ford Motorcraft starter to get his F550 Powerstroke Wrecker back on the road.

Let’s bench-test and install the new starter motor on the truck, and then diagnose why some of the auxilliary lights don’t work.

MAGIC TEST LIGHT:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M5ZWBA?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzpineholl-20&creativeASIN=B000M5ZWBA&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.UKPVIGM4POWZ&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin

ASTRO DC AMP CLAMP:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTCMWLB?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzpineholl-20&creativeASIN=B08MTCMWLB&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.UKPVIGM4POWZ&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin

Enjoy!
Ivan

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Comments

@qwarko3658 says:

So why was the control side of the starter relay not lighting up the test light? I think it was the ground side. In part 1 of the video.

@vpimike2646 says:

Great job Ivan. The only question is if the dealer refunded the customer for giving him a defective remanufactured starter when he had paid for a "new" OEM starter.

@fuzzs8970 says:

I would keep the truck for a few days to avoid any come back

@gordonwilloughby8793 says:

you could hook the lights in series to reduce the current by half. It would spread the light out better.

@ginamiller6015 says:

You could add another relay driven by the existing relay, and some heavier wiring from a more suitable source back to those power hungry rear lights.

@stever41g says:

You're amazing Ivan.

@dga5396 says:

Great diagnosis!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

@noelcastle3986 says:

Well done , good decision by the owner to get a second opinion ,wiring harness change a big job did you tidy up that mess of a harness . I thought for sure it was the harness after the wiggle testing but you did the full testing not assumed the harness was crook. Theres good reasons people travell big distances to get you to do their dias.

@jimpetty2961 says:

Ivan is like the energizer bunny nothing stops him when all those open wires under the fender WTF nope laughs .

@Sandmansa says:

Nice find and fix Ivan. But those LED lights are not what was originally installed to that bed. I had a similar year F550 flatbed with the same problem. I couldn't get the wiring diagram for that system, and it took me a few hours to trace that circuit. The connector was melted so bad, I couldn't even unplug it. So, I just installed a standalone fuse and relay outside the BCM. They have been working fine for over 4 years now.

@michaelpistilli5823 says:

Besides the overloaded circuit and not following the rules of electrical engineering the blown fuse can send you in the right direction did it melt apart or blow out

@russellhltn1396 says:

In the first video, you were chasing a problem on the control side of the relay when you discovered the load side wasn't working right. What happened to the control side troubleshooting? Did you find out what was going wrong there?

@apollomorelos727 says:

the master at work

@johnlucaiii9495 says:

did you replace the 15 amp fuse with the proper 10 amp fuse?

@DavidJohnson-id1js says:

Ivan there is a round connector on passenger side inside Fender well that isolates the solenoid all late model ford trucks food for thought

@major__kong says:

One thing you can do is use the existing power feed as a signal for the control side of a relay or mosfet. You just size the relay or mosfet for 15A and use that to power the lights. You need to run a new fused power feed from the battery or fuse block to the relay.

@LesReeves says:

I hate finding aftermarket wiring in any vehicle that I buy (only buy used) because you do not know if it has been installed correctly (whether by so called professional shops or back yarders ) & I always chase out the wiring to make sure what it goes to & if it works then check specs & either remove or replace if it is needed.Cheers mate for your dedication working in the cold& dark.

@deweydodo6691 says:

Thought led lights were supposed to draw less current?

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