Any way to test the rear brakes if they work? I guess put the rear axle on jack stands, put the truck in 1st gear and just let the rear tires spin, and hit the brake pedal to see if they stop/stall out the truck?
Doesn’t sound like metal to metal if I’m going 10mph, and slowly applying the park brake to stop. However it makes since, when comming to a stoplight and braking, it does goes nose down, like 100% of the braking is on the front only, more so then my dad’s 99 2.5l auto ranger (but single cab so less weight).
Have u put a new master cillebder on no then u don’t have to bleed the abs lol breaks will always work abs wont count the wheel spin per wheel that’s y. A computer dose it
I have bled the brakes on my truck several times in the 13 years I have owned it. If you don’t let air into the ABS module then there will be no problems. My ABS works like it did when it was new.
Hi I need HELP I changed my rotor and pads just as you did in the video and I took it out for a test drive and the brake pedal pulsed as I press on them but it only happens when when going slow. I tried a hard brake and had no pulse in brake pedal I bleeded the brake system twice and didn’t feel a difference then I took out the abs sensor to clean them then I felt less pulse on pedal any suggestions on what can be the problem
The park brake functions off of a cable. The rear brakes from the pedal run off of hydraulic pressure. The friction material on the rear shoes could be completely gone (losing braking power) and its just metal on metal holding the park brake.
I doubt my rear brakes have been serviced recently in the last 5years, but it is a 5speed, so I use the park break everyday to hold the truck while parked and havn’t had let go or anything.
Other then that, very very help, I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 4×2 with the 3.0 Vulcan engine, with the 5speed Madza Tranny. Recently braking has crappy, plenty of pad left, and front wheel bearings replaced 2years ago, haven’t taken a look, yet. But it suck under mild-hard breaking, and almost feels like braking power is being transfered back and forth (left,right,left,right) real fast, no shuttering in the steering wheel. Thinking maybe new rotors might help.
Is it just me or did you use way too much grease on everything. I understand its very very important to pack the bearing with gease, taking your time, and get it between all the rollers, but why have so much grease on everything else and on the dust cover? From what I can recall, if you have too much grease, brake dust will collect in the grease, similar to using too much grease on the throwout bearing on the trannt shaft, allowing it to collect too much clutch dust.
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Could be a few different things. Sounds like you may have put a wheel back on incorrectly. Make sure you torque the wheel properly.
If that isn’t it then double check and make sure the bearings are seated all the way.
I just did mine and I did what you did but now I have steering wheel shaking
what is it
Part of the reason I do everything I can afford on my own.
Take it to PepBoys so they can put new bearings in with NO grease. That was a lot of fun. I made it real far. Just Say No To PepBoys
Just put it on jack stands and have someone spin the wheel by hand then hit the brakes.
I would put it on jack stands and have someone spin them by hand then hit the brakes. No need to start the engine.
Any way to test the rear brakes if they work? I guess put the rear axle on jack stands, put the truck in 1st gear and just let the rear tires spin, and hit the brake pedal to see if they stop/stall out the truck?
Might want to look into changing your proportioning valve. I believe rangers have them but I am not sure.
Doesn’t sound like metal to metal if I’m going 10mph, and slowly applying the park brake to stop. However it makes since, when comming to a stoplight and braking, it does goes nose down, like 100% of the braking is on the front only, more so then my dad’s 99 2.5l auto ranger (but single cab so less weight).
Good stuff Sparky and thanks for going to Oreillys 😉 one thing I did see is you can press in caliper before taking it off with a big c clamp
Awesome video!!! Thank you for this! I’m about ready to do this to my 2.3L ranger!
-Nigel
ABS works great after being bled several times. You really need to work on your English. It’s very hard to understand what you’re trying to type.
Have u put a new master cillebder on no then u don’t have to bleed the abs lol breaks will always work abs wont count the wheel spin per wheel that’s y. A computer dose it
I have bled the brakes on my truck several times in the 13 years I have owned it. If you don’t let air into the ABS module then there will be no problems. My ABS works like it did when it was new.
Lol go ahead and bleed em how ever u think then but the abs will not work
I’m sorry an auto shop has convinced you of this.
A shop has to bleed abs
Or it will not work properly
Unless u have a 3 thousand dollar scan pump tool have a shop do the abs
Pulse as the abs is getting engaged
Is it a steady pulse like the ABS is getting engaged? or is it a pulse like a brake or rotor problem?
Hi I need HELP I changed my rotor and pads just as you did in the video and I took it out for a test drive and the brake pedal pulsed as I press on them but it only happens when when going slow. I tried a hard brake and had no pulse in brake pedal I bleeded the brake system twice and didn’t feel a difference then I took out the abs sensor to clean them then I felt less pulse on pedal any suggestions on what can be the problem
It is all very simple and straight forward. The hardest part is probably removing the brake caliper bracket. Those bolts can get pretty rusty.
Did you struggle to take the nut off after the washer? First time servicing a hub rotor assembly, any advice?
2……………
Dumb question but… How many brake pads are there per tire? Thanks!
The park brake functions off of a cable. The rear brakes from the pedal run off of hydraulic pressure. The friction material on the rear shoes could be completely gone (losing braking power) and its just metal on metal holding the park brake.
I doubt my rear brakes have been serviced recently in the last 5years, but it is a 5speed, so I use the park break everyday to hold the truck while parked and havn’t had let go or anything.
The bearings are completely sealed from any break dust. There is no way for there to be a contamination.
Also double check that your rear brakes are functioning properly. Mine did the same thing right before they gave out. That was a mess.
Other then that, very very help, I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 4×2 with the 3.0 Vulcan engine, with the 5speed Madza Tranny. Recently braking has crappy, plenty of pad left, and front wheel bearings replaced 2years ago, haven’t taken a look, yet. But it suck under mild-hard breaking, and almost feels like braking power is being transfered back and forth (left,right,left,right) real fast, no shuttering in the steering wheel. Thinking maybe new rotors might help.
Is it just me or did you use way too much grease on everything. I understand its very very important to pack the bearing with gease, taking your time, and get it between all the rollers, but why have so much grease on everything else and on the dust cover? From what I can recall, if you have too much grease, brake dust will collect in the grease, similar to using too much grease on the throwout bearing on the trannt shaft, allowing it to collect too much clutch dust.
what is a ? pretty good amount.
Glad i could help. 🙂
Thanks for the video Dude…. Big help!
No prob. Glad I could help.
Thank you for mentioning the cleaning of new parts, I never would have thought of that. I would have assumed it is clean being new.
Very welcome! Glad I could help.
Very welcome!
Thanks for the up load!
Very good video. Thank you for posting!
Should be about the same as long as it is 2wd
Video is great, thanks for the posting. Would this works on a 2006 as well?, or would the five years difference have to much change?