How To Replace Riveted Ball Joints 2000 Dodge 1500

How To Replace Riveted Ball Joints 2000 Dodge 1500

How To Replace Riveted Ball Joints 2000 Dodge 1500.

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73hornet says:

Great video. Very clear to understand instructions. Very back yard
mechanic friendly video.Can tell you know you stuff. Thanks

tiorob says:

You’re a life saver my man, rock on!

will j says:

Oh and if ya get tired of beating the piss out of knuckles to remove
spindles… invest in a set of pickle forks, makes it alot easier

will j says:

“What I do is I just take a bolt to stick down in there, then I strike it
with my hammer, and I’m gon knock the piss out of it!” Lmao… right on.

dan rather says:

I used the torch to cut the upper rivets out. When looking at the lower
there is a rubber bushing close to the left rivet. If I was to use my
cutting torch on these rivets I would melt the rubber bushing. How did you
manage to do yours without ruining the rubber bushing? Great Video!!!!

nadronnocojr says:

My comment got cut off. Sorry. I have 46re it was. Not shifting , hanging
up, saw your video, ordered part numbers you showed and plan on doing
tomorrow, one thing I’m lost on, band adjustment, Ido you do it to spec
72lbs or did you do free hand? I have a cheap harbour freight torque
wrench. Not sure if it will do, as well do I need to torque the pan? Or
just do in a criss cross even pressure t? Thanks for the confidence..199
dakota

nadronnocojr says:

I agree with Joel. I’d pay to go to your class

nadronnocojr says:

When you come to jersey. Beer on me

nadronnocojr says:

To a spec? I assume do the evenly and cross CEOs to not bind. But specific.
Torque needed? I have a harbour freight torque wrench. That is it and I
doubt it is reliable, even tho it’s new…. I’m doing it to or row after
ups drops off the pressure celenoid and govener… I have the. Hold at 3
grand. Problem. Ur video. Made me order parts not go to the trans guyfor
600$.

nijoel says:

are you a mechanic by trade? if not, you are very skilled and seem better
than many pros. your videos are short and to the point. seems like you are
very efficient as well. you have a good narrating voice and your
instructions are thorough. i hope you’ll post more vehicle repair videos,
perhaps a video telling people a little about yourself. take care.

shylock4 says:

You also narrate Dodge truck commercials, right? I recognize your voice.

Shannon Sisk says:

What about 92 Chevy 1500 I got my drill bit off 8th or more

detroitr says:

When I say beat them out, I mean BEAT THEM OUT! nice vid!

Tom Johnston says:

Excellent description of the process. Thanks much!

tcock852 says:

I’ll be doing this soon, thanks a bunch! I really wonder what kind of metal
the rivets are that they are so hard to drill?!

Jeff Kendrick says:

I’m not a macanic but I have done a lot of my own work. Never replace a
ball joints. With that said you explain the steps very well. I was able to
complete my projects in 2 hrs that upper and lower on both sides. I didn’t
disconnect brake line I keep it attach to cliaber and lay it to the side.
Thanks so much for taking time to show us how to do it. Locally in
Nicholasville, Ky price $650 plus parts. I’m not broke but badly bent, so
saving the labor cost was a big help

Frank Kral says:

Tips to others 1. Don’t rush drilling, my dad broke a pilot bit in a rivet,
and it got stuck, destroying almost any other bit that hit it, and it made
that rivet take like 4 to 6 hours. 2. This is more of just emphasizing, but
don’t be a little girl about this stuff, hit the top ball joint HARD to get
it out, and when you are taking the knuckle off, hit it HARD.

Frank Kral says:

Fantastic video. I did my ball joints this weekend, it took probably 12 to
15 hours to do, with some help, but I had to grind rivets off, and we were
outside in the cold rain and sleet. I took the rotor and calipers off and
tied them up, which worked fine and my steering knuckle refused to come off
the bottom ball joint, so I ground between the knuckle and ball itself off
and then hit the threaded end of the ball joint out of the knuckle. Thank
you so much for this video it helped alot! Worth it

gatorgrabber2003 says:

Great video! Do you recall the torque values for the replacement bolts?

dirtdevilfox says:

I would like to thank you for the video. saved me alot of time and money. I
just did mine today. Your method worked excellent. thanx again.

justmyself1000 says:

I hate rivets! When I take over the world; I will ban the use of them!

2012nugget says:

So glad it was usefull to you.

jimandkrisflorida says:

Presented very well…thanks for taking the time to post this video. A
great help for do-it-yourselfers.

timothy veith says:

2012nugget awesome job! saved my ass a lot of time, I created a youtube
account just to thank you, so…. Thank You…Still sucky job, but I did it
pretty fast, drilled them out then used an air hammer, cut the top one off
with a cutoff wheel on my grinder. Bad design? or good design? my truck is
12 years old, so hats off to dodge!

2012nugget says:

Glad to hear it, not that you pounded for four days but that the video was
helpful ! Have a good one.

anthony lamanna says:

I did mine at my automotive school, we heated up the tops nice and cherry
red then scraped them off with an air chisel, then heated up the ball join
sections with the rest of the rivets in them one by one and got them out
with an air hammer. This vid helped me do the other side at home though so
thanks.

Russell Kellogg says:

Great vid ..I have been pounding on mine for 4 days now ..never thought to
drill the rivets …tryed it …and it only took 2 wacks each nd the came
rite out …your a lifesaver

Daniel M. says:

been using a air hammer on my buddy;s dodge dakota and got the top ball
joint out no prob,, but your right those bottum are a biotch !! I got one
with the air hammer other three drilling,, video got some new ideas,,
thanks man !!

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