A week after someone asked me if I have ever had to replace a leaky exhaust manifold gasket, my manifold starts leaking. This job is a bit of a pain, but as …
How to Replace a Leaky Exhaust Manifold Gasket on a 2005-2011 Dodge Dakota or Durango 4.7L V8
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thanks for posting this man, if you are ever in NorCal I owe you cold six
pack of something fancy
Thank you very much from the Atlantic side of Canada (Newfoundland)! Your
video and instructions gave me the confidence to do the same work on my
2007 V-6 Dakota. The drivers side exhaust manifold gasket had deteriorated
around the EGR port. I bought a complete set of studs, bolts and nuts along
with a new reinforced gasket from the dealer ($175.00 with sales tax!) I
used PBlaster along with Anti-seize and the repair is a complete success!
I was worried that some of the studs had rusted or sheared off but they
were easily removed with a breaker bar. FInding some decent replacement
plastic rivets for the inner fender may be a problem.
I have the same problem 2005 dodge durango 4.7 cold and warm starts it
ticks and goes away I owe you one
Well, I had to fix the common exhaust manifold leak on my Dakota, here’s
the video to go along with that
How to Replace a Leaky Exhaust Manifold Gasket on a 2005-2011 Dodge Dakota
or Durango 4.7L V8
I seem to have the same problem. Loud clacking sound at start-up that goes
away one the truck is warm. So what if I don’t fix it? Is it that dig a
deal?
i have an 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7L V8, Before you knew that it was your
exhaust manifold when you started up your truck cold, did it make a loud
ass clicking? i mean everytime i start up my truck even warm it clicks like
really loud, and im almost positive that it was my exhaust manifold bec i
can see on my passenger side manifold that one of my bolts on the cover is
broken. basically im asking if your truck made that clicking from your
passenger wheel well?
Any idea if Napa or Auto Zone will sell the proper stud/bolt package? The
closest looking set from AZ seems to have 3 of the 13MM studs like in your
vid and one weird short one?
I have a 06 ram 1500 that is leaking on the right and left and the shop is
trying charge me $275 a side. Looks like ill be doing it myself.
Hey Kurtis. Great video. I have a 2007 Durango 5.7 Hemi. I’m getting a
ticking noise from the exact same area that you show here for the first 20
seconds of start up, then it goes. I’m no mechanic, so what do you suppose
a repair like this would run me at a dealership? I also suspect its this
problem as theres now a rattle near the exhaust on start up too. I see you
are in Vancouver (assume BC). If so, do you offer repairs?
Hey 6speed did you have to go to a dealer and get the bolts? My passenger
side exhaust manifold is leaking because of a broken bolt on my 05 Ram and
I have found some hardware on ebay but afraid to order them incase they
don’t fit. thanks.
very well done. I actually had the manifolds rust out on my 04. will be
replacing them with shorty headers however. And using your video as an
aid….Thanks.
You saved me $600 bucks. Excellent post solved my problem.
I’m not entirely sure, but it will be a couple hours labour and they will
charge a lot more if a bolt is broken flush with the head, if they wanted
to hose you, they would charge you extra to remove a bolt that is not
broken flush like mine, which is stupid because that’s how these things
start leaking in the first place
Oh yeah, not to mention about $125 parts as well for one side
look up thetexascoder on YouTube, he has an exhaust manifold gasket
replacement on a 2001 4.7L Dakota, it may provide a little more insight to
your specific vehicle
can u explain again what symptom’s are for a m leak. I do hear a tick in
mine
Around how much do you think they would charge to do this ?
It almost sounds like a lifter or valvetrain click, it’s kind of high
pitched, almost like clicking a ball point pen typically when it’s cold
you’ll hear it at idle for a couple minutes until things get warmed up a
bit, with the windows up, and stereo off, when you accelerate, you’ll hear
it as well, the harder you accelerate, the louder it becomes. If you’re
concerned about a leak, look at the bolts that hold the heat shield on, if
one of those is loose and broken, you have a leak
Great video… I think I will tackle mine this weekend.
Great video and takes out some of the guess work for a nasty chore. I have
the same issue but on the drivers side on my 2000 Dodge Durango which does
look much easier to fix…. DO NOT trust NAPA or Autozone for providing the
correct manifold bolts. I went to both places and neither had the right
bolt type.
Going through all this trouble I’d just put headers in it while you were
down there mine got here today so ill be doing that soon
I thought about it, but I didn’t want to spend $400+ on a set of headers to
pick up a couple horsepower, have to do both sides in a day on a school
night, and also risk more flange leaks from header flange warping. From
what I’ve read on forums, the 4.7 manifolds flow pretty well, changing to a
set of headers adds minimal horsepower on a relatively stock motor. I live
in Canada, it costs a ridiculous amount to ship to my front door as well. I
just wanted to fix that annoying leak, that’s all
Shop cost estimate was $500-$600 for both sides complete. Will do it
myself.