Learn how to do a complete front suspension rebuild on your 2WD #truck! In this video I go over every step in rebuilding my Dodge Ram 1987 D150 #suspension using #Moog parts. I’ll show every step in the disassembly. I’ll go over how to restore the original control arms and make them like new. I give some tips on how to remove bushings and ball joints without a shop press. And then I show how to do the entire assembly of the front suspension, topping it off with replacing the tie rod ends, center link and idler arm. This is a big job, but if an average guy like me can do it so can you! Thanks for watching this episode of #TheOldDodge!
More Truck Awesomeness:
Dodge Ram D150 Brake Replacement Video: https://youtu.be/Bs86ZiKKiY0
Dodge D150 Shock Replacement Video: https://youtu.be/987zzs7VgP4
Classic Truck Oil Change Video: https://youtu.be/lqlaF09eFN0
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Torque Specs for 2WD First Gen Dodge Ram (in Ft-lbs):
Shock Absorber: Upper Nut 25, Lower Bolts 17
Control Arms: Upper Arm Nut 70, Lower Arm Nut 210
Strut Rod: Rear Attaching Bolts to Lower Arm 85, Front Nut 50
Steering Knuckle: Upper Nut 115, Lower Nut 135
Upper Ball Joint to Upper Arm: 150
Idler Arm to Frame Bolts 65
Pitman Arm to Center Link Nut 65
Center Link to Idler Arm Nut 65
Tie Rod to Center Link 40
Tie Rod to Knuckle 40
Tie Rod Adjuster Clamp Nuts 225 in-lbs
Tools Used on the Project (paid links):
Shop Manual: https://amzn.to/2yB2Iag
Ball Joint Socket (2 9/64”): https://amzn.to/2wev09C
Impact Wrench: https://amzn.to/3dUaVq9
Power 3/8” Ratchet: https://amzn.to/2weuSqE
Triton SuperJaws: https://amzn.to/2V65vQ6
SAE Wrench Set: https://amzn.to/2x4l7vI
WD40 Rust Remover: https://amzn.to/349GFmP
Naval Jelly Rust Remover: https://amzn.to/2X71iP3
Penetrating Oil: https://amzn.to/3e6fk9I
Copper Anti-Seize https://amzn.to/2V4C5Cc
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
PARTS LIST UPDATE!
You asked so here it is… this is the parts list for this job on my D150. I want to be clear though that your truck may be different so PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK EACH PART for fitment. The links below are Amazon Affiliate Links (I make a small commission if you buy through them), but I’d also check RockAuto.com to get the best price (some parts aren’t on Amazon).
Idler Arm MOOG K7055 (x1) https://amzn.to/3hF4Dxh
Tie Rod End (Right) MOOG ES2120R (x2) https://amzn.to/3jNgj3L
Tie Rod End (Left) MOOG ES2121L (x2) https://amzn.to/3hVIqeL
Center Link MOOG DS804 (x1) https://amzn.to/3dPl74L
Front Upper Control Arm Bushings MOOG K7189 (x2)
Alignment Cam Bolt Kit MOOG K8243A (x1) https://amzn.to/3Av1bho
Front Lower Control Arm Bushings MOOG K7077 (x2)
Upper Ball Joint (threaded) MOOG K778 (x2) https://amzn.to/3AyeXA0
Lower Ball Joint (not threaded) MOOG K7025 (x2) https://amzn.to/3jVsviO
Front Springs MOOG 7170 (x1) https://amzn.to/2VexZLu
Coil Spring Insulator MOOG K160037 (x2) https://amzn.to/3wjfP8g
Bump Stop MOOG K7293 (x2) https://amzn.to/3ypt7S3
Strut Rod Bushing MOOG K7079 (x2) https://amzn.to/3jOrjxW
KYB Shock Absorber Kit (I installed these in my first Dodge video) https://amzn.to/3hiBSr7
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I know I'm a bit late to the party on this video, but I have an 87 D150 and let me share some wisdom with everyone. There are a couple major issues with the way you showed this job that could seriously impair someone's rebuild, like it almost did for mine.
First off: You don't need to add weight to the coil spring to remove the knuckle, in fact I'd really recommend not doing that. You're actually more likely to hurt yourself; instead, place a block under the unloaded suspension with about a half inch gap between it and the lower arm. Next, in order to pop the ball joints free, loosen both upper and lower nuts to about a 1/4 inch gap, and strike the knuckle, not the ball joint stud. This will shock them loose way faster without hurting the joint or threads. You can then loosen the joints until all the tension is gone.
Now, about the upper arm bushings: CUT THOSE INNER SLEEVES OFF. That pressed on sleeve can become so rusted it almost cold welds to the bushing ends, and you'll deform the chamfered upper arm area pressing it out no matter what. Cut a diagonal groove all the way through the inner sleeves to loosen the tension, you don't have to cut the whole sleeve in half just most of the way, and DONT CUT THE ARM in the process, it's already a thin area. I find a small diameter cutting wheel works best. Those sleeves do not provide any support if you look at them, It was an idea Mopar had but since it's not welded to the upper arm it just kinda floats there. Many cars only had one sleeve per arm, not two. Does it add a bit of rigidity to the bushing? Sure, but bending the arm trying to save it costs a lot of money and time. My truck has run perfectly for 9 years without them.
And finally, advice for pressing out/in ball joints or bushings: put tension on the press tool and then whack the arm area around the joint/bushing with a brass hammer or drift punch. This both shocks the joint and settles it, AND keeps it straight as it presses out/in. ALWAYS do this as your new joint/bushing may appear seated but will loosen as you drive, either affecting your alignment or worse, snapping a ball joint if you hit a pothole and it settles it too forcefully.
My bushings look like that! Cool you have an entire video for the job im trying to do. Thanks!
Question did you use factory upper bushings or the bushings that can be use for movement for alignment?
You are the best! Just watched your video and about 90% of what you showed matches up to the suspension on my '96 dakota. Your trick with the bolt and coupler to seperate the lower ball joint helped me a ton.
Can you please tell me what you did to remove the upper and lower control arm bushings. I followed your video but they are not budging.
Where did you buy the upper control arms?
Hi Jason,
What do you think would be an average estimate to have a mechanic due the same work you've done here? Unfortunately I like the patience and tools for this kind of work and no one sells complete assemblies of new upper and lower control arms. Only company I see is called WSD and it appears to be a shady company and the products are not exact fit requires modifications which defeats the purpose.
Jason is a total nerd. I loved this video. Very helpful and Jason keeps it fun.
that's a good looking truck
GREAT VIDEO! I'm about to restore my Ram Charger and this was helpful
I noticed your coil spring part number was 7172 on the box of the video. But on the description is says 7170 which is up to 1989 Dodges Could you confirm on your amazon purchase if it was 7172 or 7170 ?
Bought to do the suspension on my 93 D250 cummins. Think I’m gunna go with the far from stock upper and lower control arms. Kinda cool I have an old dodge truck and 69 bug
Awesome video bud helped out a lot
I’m working on a 84 and most is the same just mines a lot more rust lol
Nice! Used this for the front shocks on my 77 D100. Thought I'd have to pull the coils. Saved me some work.
best way to loosen top ball joint is removr kotter key loosen bj nut half way then use a hammer to bang around chamfered connection. it will drop loose. bottom also. screw a pickle.
Very well done. I have an 83 I completely restored. I like how you was honest and very informative
Love your videos!! Quick question on the Coil Springs. I see in the video you have the Moog 7172, but link the 7170s. The 7170s are readily available, but I am looking for the slightly taller 7172 springs. Any ideas? Thank you!
Hey Jason,
First of all, I love the video. You did an excellent job of going into great detail of everything you did on your truck. However, I do have one particular question for you though.
I understand you stripped the threads in the upper control arm while pressing out the existing ball joint on the driver’s side. I was just wandering whether or not you repaired or replaced the existing control arm? If you repaired it, how exactly did you go about doing that? If you replaced the entire control arm, where were you able to find a new one?
Right now, I am currently doing a front end rebuild on my 2WD 91 Dodge D-350 and ended up stripping the threads on the upper control arm as well. I looked on a lot of websites where I get parts for my truck and couldn’t find any new control arms. What would you recommend?
Thanks,
-Preston
I'm curious to know if this applies to the D350 as well.
Where did you get your control arms?