I had to alter audio to comply with a copyright flag, sorry this was the least gay song for the full length of video. Click on MORE. A walk through on Replac…
I had to alter audio to comply with a copyright flag, sorry this was the least gay song for the full length of video. Click on MORE. A walk through on Replac…
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Nice music choice.
Great video! Thanks for taking the trouble to shoot it. I was digging that
song, too!
Es el mejor video que he visto muy grafico y totalmente elocuente,
felicitaciones. gracias,gracias
Don’t need a press for the bearing races, they can be knocked out with a
punch or a socket extension, as for going in a wood dowel work well to
knock them in without damaging them. I never said the grease would
“liqify”. I said it will become fluid like meaning i will act like a fluid
over time and it will run away from the bearings. Also I have never had a
bearing failure so I must be doing something right. Better to over lube
than to under lube 🙂
I’m looking at replacing both my rear calipers and pads as one of them is
shot in my 04′ dakota. Is there anything you would recommend I need to know
before I get started. I might go ahead and change the brake fluid too. I’ve
never personally done a break job on this truck. The shop wanted $400. 🙂
What’s the best brand too?
@77kutdog Bleeding is recommended for vehicles with ABS brakes, although
recommended for all vehicles to open bleeders to compress calipers, you can
just push them back in if the fluid isnt too nasty most of the time it work
fine
The brake job actually took 3 hours on that side to fill up my 2 gig card
and then had to use another 1 gig card in the camera, The other side got
same exact service and only took me 15 minutes with out the camera.
I’ve never heard of putting grease on the back of the pads or on the
caliper piston!
Excellant video, Thanks!!!
U got too much spare time!! lol
Yeah that was purely my 14 years shop experience taking over on the spindle
nut torque. 🙂
DUDE your a genius….. this video is one of the more helpful ones on
here…. thank you very much
Great video! To bad the newer dakotas don’t have re-packable bearings.
The bearing was not packed with grease correctly, it didn’t even look like
it was cleaned in solvent.
Don’t forget that if the bearings are bad you might want to knock the races
out of the rotors and install new ones, unless you put new rotors on then
they will have new races already in them
great video ! even the Spanish comment says it is.
Excellent video! Thank you for the instructions and the tips. If I can do
it right the first time my mechanic will not see my face and laugh about it
Great no nonsense, to the point video! Very cool choice of audio.
Ha Ha Ha, put taiwan tools away, Nope I just keep up with regular maint.
like tire rotations brake inspections and tighten wheels to torque. Keep
watching my channel as I am making a video on doing an all “bolt-on” dual
exhaust system from cat to bumper
Yes on a vehicle with ABS that is recommended to open bleeders to prevent
debris from being pushed into the ABS control valve unit. However this
truck is not abs equipped. Yes a caliper should be supported however most
hose damage comes from shock of a caliper falling and being caught by the
hose.
Fine job Good Sir. Fine job indeed.
you showed me how to do it myself..midas wanted 500$ aprox…i did it for a
1/4 of that price
great video…do you think much would change about doing my brakes on an 06
dakota? process in probably very close? Thanks for posting this!
well can I comment 2 things thats been done wrong? well (1) never ever hang
caliper by the brake line and should be hang by safety wire. (2) you should
open the bleeder when pushing piston back in caliper so that old fuild
drain out, after pistion is fully pushed in then close bleeder. That way
you will still have good brake pedels stiffness. I am not here to flame
anything but just my commnet thanks.
though one thing you didn’t do is to peen the brake shoe tabs (that sit on
the iron brake caliper mounts) with a hammer using a downward stroke on a
block of wood surface (to prevent damage along with Goop automotive is what
I use on my B350) for snug fit to help prevent brake shoe rattle – a common
problem on these systems in hot weather. Also a C-clamp may need to be used
to repostion the loaded caliper w/ fresh brake pads on the new rotor (vent
the brake resevior while doing this)
Great video !! I actually have bad bearings & no idea how to get at them &
here it is, THANKS
thanks for the video in canada the clappers has hax bolts a pain in the ass.
great video!! helps a lot ..very easy to follow
wat about the brake bleding thing? my mechanick told me he would chage me
120 for just changing my front and rear pads but screw him now!do i have to
bleed my brakes if im just changing pads/
7:00 Should not let the caliper hang by the brake line…use a piece of
wire or string to hang it from something sturdy.
awesome! finally found a video of front truck rotors with the studs/hub on
the rotor! great video, thanks =]
song sounds like one stolen from a sleezy 70’s porn vid
I tighten the spindle nut until snug, then back off about 1/4 turn for
proper adjustment – otherwise great vid!
Wait wait, where’s the part where you shatter 4 impact sockets and end up
using the 3 foot pipe wih the 1/2 inch breaker bar and still split 3 more
sockets before those lugs come off? Hahahaha! Do you like take that apart
twice a week and clean it? Lol I’d like to send you a pic of my buddies
farm truck, the entire back half of the rotor is gone, completely lol when
I do the other side I’ll tape it for ya’s lmao, this oughtta be good. This
is good for basics though.
I always just pulled the cap off the brake fuid res. Not as messy.