This video shows the standard maintenance process to change the transmission fluid and filter on a Dodge Caravan. We remove the transmission pan, drain the f…
How to Change Transmission Fluid in a Dodge Caravan
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ty,good video
Very good, succinct description with excellent camera work, well done.
If i may suggest a few things:
Do not base how much fluid you need to replace from how much you drained,
this is because you could be missing some. The 41TE that you drained has a
total of 9.1 quarts, when you do a pan drop 4 quarts SHOULD come out. So
regardless of how much you drain, you should add 4 quarts of ATF +4.
The torque on the pan bolts is 19Nm (165 in. lbs) according to the service
manual, make sure you leave a note not to confuse anyone.
Cheers.
Thanks for well made video… I just replaced a radiator on my 1999 caravan
and for some strange reason I now have a leaking AT sump pan gasket.. All
is good on oil cooler end and fluid is flowing…. So will need to remove
and change fluid.. And filter while I’m at it.! Thanks..!
So you’ve changed the pan gasket and filter but what about the other 70% of
fluid left in the transmission cooler lines and torque converter? Do you
just not service the rest or do you have another video out describing how
to remove and replace that fluid?
FogoFox…Amazing video…Thanks for the simple, step by step, well
narrated and well shot production. We own a 2003 Chrysler T&C w/a 3.8
w/85k. Recently, put it in reverse and “nothing” for about 30 seconds. Then
the “hard downshift” thing started. After looking at a pile of blogs and
watching your video, I decided to change my tranny fluid. Although you
stated this several times in your video, I tightened my bolts to 80 ft/lbs
NOT 80 in/lbs. Stripped a bolt…my bad. BTW, no change in tranny.
Yeppers…if you have the same engine, the tranny will be the same. Even if
you have a different engine option, the process is virtually identical –
it’s just that things might look a bit different here and there.
Same deal for a 2003 Dodge Caravan I’m assuming?
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
No sealants were used on the pan. I used RTV on a tranny pan only once a
long time ago – the tranny fluid dissolved the RTV & there was a major
leak. In this case, the pan is thick enough, & the gasket too, that (with
the proper torque and care) there is no need for any sealant. It’s been ~9
months since this video was made, & (honestly) there are no leaks.
Sequentially torquing the pan down, using a back and forth pattern, in 2
separate torque-setting passes, is the key to a leak-free fit.
I liked your video but my question is did you use a sealant on the gasket?
If you didn’t why not and did you have a leak later and be honest. I had
many leaks on my ford f150 pan leaks due to over tightening. But finally
not leaking after countless times of using different sealants (blue RTV
black RTV and even the yellow sticky hi tack). I finally just used the
black rtv sealant and spread it with my finger all over the pan and the
transmission surface and it finally stopped leaking.ChryslerNext
forget those cheap gaskets. Right stuff is the way to go.
Thanks a lot forma quitó Ecuador.
hc
Good info! I am now a subscriber!
Thank you very much, that was of extreme help !!
thanks for the Great video, I will pump out all the trans fluid first
before I attempt to open the tray like that….that should make it clean
and safe.
Nice Vid. Breaking the seal to remove the pan was tough on my car as RTV
had been used. Had to carefully use a hammer and a sharpened screwdriver to
pop it. I used a gasket and some Permatex sealer to reassemble. When
replacing the filter make sure the old O ring has come out properly (mine
hung up inside the hole ) and O ring is in place on the new filter.
Well done how-to video! thanks a lot for sharing!
Thanks a million! I will be doing my van next week.
where would i find the transmission solenoid on a 2003 dodge caravan
I would like you to know this video (whilst not copleted by this DIYer) was
perfect. Cheers!
I’m a big fan of Permatex’s “Hi Tack” gasket sealant. It never hardens, is
impervious to oil, gas, etc. and seals up any small nicks in the aluminum
sealing surfaces. It’s not RTV, it’s more of a very sticky liquid, but it’s
amazing for sealing when using gaskets. Also, Hi-Tack won’t shed booger
balls like over applicated RTV and clog up small oil passages.
Exactly, High-Tack is for use WITH gaskets, it is not a gasket replacement.
Thanks for the tip Pete! As you mentioned, High Tack works great WITH a
gasket whereas I’ve mostly seen RTV used AS the gasket. One quick note
about RTV (since you mentioned it) is that normal RTV is not compatible
with ATF and should not be used to seal transmission pans. Thanks for
watching!
Great video. What kind of catch pan did you use? Also, can you recommend a
good (yet not too expensive) torque wrench?
EXCELLENT!!!
It’s right on the front of the transmission, above the pan, below the two
hoses that run to the transmission cooler. You can almost see at 1:17 in my
video right in front of, and below the transmission dipstick. Then again
you can see the bottom of it at 1:50 right above the pan on the left side.
Thanks! You can see the catch pan at 6:18 in the video. It’s just a plastic
rectangular pan from Autozone ($2 or $3). The torque wrench I used is a
Performance Tool M197 and I think it is a good low-end wrench. Do NOT buy
the Harbor Freight ones! I also have two other larger Performance Tool
torque wrenches to cover the range of torques up to 300 ft-lbs. You can
definitely buy nicer ones than mine, but I think you’d be hard-pressed to
find one that works for cheaper.
In my case the gasket didnt budge with a putty knife and a hammer…