In this video I replace the struts on the Sebring. Overall, this was an involved process but it was so worth the time in the end because the car drives so much better now!
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Great video ! Thank you
YOU DIDNT SPECIFY THAT THE STRUTS ARE MARKED FOR THE LEFT SIDE & THE RIGHT SIDE WHEN BUYING THEM AND INSTALLING THEM . AS MY 2004 DODGE STRATUS INDICATES
How long did that take you?
Do you really have to use the word ACTUALLY in every other sentence??
HI. I have a Chrysler Stratus (Seebring for you in US) convertible 1997 bought in Italy and I'm wondering if the process is quite the same you showed here. I'd like (I MUST) to replace shock absorber by myself (apology me my English, you named STRUTS did you mean shock absorber? ). Thnak you
I literally just got done putting new struts/shocks on my daughters' 2004 Sebring (same thing). By the looks of the stickers on the parts and how the new upper control arm was so loose, I might've gotten the same new parts as you. But they all come from China now, so…
A few things to remember for anyone else doing this:
1) One thing you definitely missed was how you took off the lower fork off of the strut. It can be a bit tricky. Especially putting it on the new one. If it doesn't seem to want to slip on, then get a large bladed screwdriver or chisel and tap it down between where the collar is split. That will spread it out so you can slide it on easier.
2) I hope you tightened up those upper control arm bolts that you pointed out were moving really freely. They're not supposed to be that loose. That's just so they can fold up a bit to fit in the box better. If yours are still that loose, go tighten them!
3) Also, if you find that the bolts don't slide out, and you have to beat on them with a hammer, make sure you put the nut back on a bit. You don't want to beat on the end of a bolt and mushroom the end over so you can't get the nut back on.
4) A bungee cord works fine to hold the caliper out of the way. It's a universal tool to hold calipers. Works on every car. 😉
5) I noticed that you didn't tighten 2 of the top strut bolts (engine compartment) when you were reviewing your work (10:44). Maybe that was what was causing the issue with the front drivers side.
6) And speaking of those bolts, make sure you tighten them back down on the same marks as when you took them out. If not, you risk putting it out of alignment. It may not seem like a lot, but it can be just enough. You may not notice it right away, but 6 months from now when the tire are worn out in funny spots, then you'll know why. Actually, you should get it aligned after anyhow. The stance of the car will change so things will need to be readjusted. Including where your headlights shine on the road. Yes!
7) You may have noticed it at the time, but that upper ball joint does not come lubricated. So you'll need to get a grease gun and get some grease in there shortly after installing them.
8) The first side will take you 45 minutes. The other side will take you 15. You'll be a pro by the time you get to 'side 2'.
9) Make sure you put the cotter pin in where the castle nut is for the upper control arm. You don't want that thing loosening up over time from road vibration.