Chrysler Sebring Convertible EGR VALVE ’96-’00

Chrysler Sebring Convertible EGR VALVE ’96-’00

How to on troubleshooting EGR problems on the 1996 – 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting http:/…

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Cornelius George says:

I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible and I just replace the Roto
Rooter cab and a problem that I’m having right now is when the car is
running it runs fine but once it warms up it dies on me can you help me out

syyenergy7 says:

Just use a regular vacuum hose. It doesn’t have to be the exact factory
type hard plastic tube.

Jurek Pol says:

That vacuum hose from intake to the EGR Transducer crumbled in my hands.
What would you use for the replacement. I cant find it anywhere. Will just
an automotive rubber hose do? This is on 1996 JXi. Thanks,

tmdnndg says:

Hello syynergy7, can you explain to me again the ground cable coming from
EGR and where does it go to. I have not seen it on my car and have replaced
it once already and did not see it, I have a 2000 JX convertible

syyenergy7 says:

It’s right off the wiring harness, next to EGR. If that ground is dirty,
rusty of loose you will have problems. I pointed to it in the video. Use a
light, you will see it. It may be covered in grease and dirt.

syyenergy7 says:

It’s a Mitsubishi motor and one of the very best of all Japanese motors. It
could simply be a lifter that is not pumping up oil due to dirt inside the
lifter. For a very safe, effective way to remove dirt that cause parts to
stick, that Auto-Rx stuff is the best. Most stuff in a can will not work.
Another good and very old standby is Marvel Mystery Oil but Auto-Rx is
better.

MrJohnPic says:

car stalling on humid days , rough idle and hesitation should i replace egr
since removed it , to get at distributer cap , is there a seal on
distributer cap ,egr valve tube was broken you mentioned in video, Also
misfiring codes for last two tears , mech replaced distributer twice,

Ryan sudbury ontario says:

continuing my post, to make your car symptom it if theirs a problem, let
the car warmup,even drive it first, then when you know the rough idle is
their, park the car and rev the engine, when the rpms slow down the car
will symptom bad egr as if you were at a stop light while it does it, now
in this short time its being rough becvause chances are the egr will slowly
correct itself and symptom will disapear,manually move the vavle inside the
egr in either direction until you solve or make it stall

syyenergy7 says:

Stalling on humid days is usually the wires.

syyenergy7 says:

Idk. Could be a collapsed lifter. Try that Auto-Rx stuff available on the
web. Go to Auto-Rx (dot) com. That stuff seems to work great to clean up
things and maybe quiet it down. The 2.5 engine in the Gen I Sebrings is
very, very durable. The 2.7 in the 2001 and up was the one that had the
problems.

sk8rwht says:

hey I’ve spent hours watching your videos on repair work for this car and
they are great let me tell you. Could you take one minute to look at my
video with the engine noise i am having and tell me if anything comes to
mind as to what the problem could be? i would greatly appreciate it

sk8rwht says:

thank you! and I’m riding on my faith that these are good motors. My
mechanic seemed very doubtful about the motor when I described to him what
was going on but once he realized it wasn’t the Chrysler motor he did seem
to be less worried. He suggested to check the oil pressure first. But i
will try what you suggested

Ryan sudbury ontario says:

i use copper rtv, agreed, also symptoms of egr are when slowing down
towards idle, or stopped the engine will kinda chug like its about to
stall, if the egr gets bad enough it will stall with a check engine light
turning on, moments later the car can be started again and run, other times
it will sound like its going to stall but if you allow it time, the
chugging will slowly go away this means the valve isnt seating properly and
like video says” while symptoming manually move valve and you know

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