Here are recommended products for this job:
*EECCPP Timing belt kit (I’ve used these before without a problem) : http://amzn.to/2C3OTBc.
*Puller i used made by OTC: http://amzn.to/2C366uK
*Lower grade puller for cheaper: http://amzn.to/2BLs7io
THUMBS UP AND SUBSCRIBE GREATLY APPRECIATED! THANKS!
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Here are recommended products for this job:
*EECCPP Timing belt kit (I've used these before without a problem) : http://amzn.to/2C3OTBc.
*Puller i used made by OTC: http://amzn.to/2C366uK
*Lower grade puller for cheaper: http://amzn.to/2BLs7io
I paid a mechanic $1,035.00 to replace a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner on my daughter's 02 PT Cruiser (after her timing belt broke at 91,000 miles). Mechanic seemed to get it done, and reported no damage to valves. Problem is, since getting it back from mechanic, my daughter can't drive the PT Cruiser over 30 minutes without the coolant getting hot. My daughter never (NEVER) had this problem before. Car has never gone beyond halfway on the temperature gauge in many miles/years of driving with several long distance trips, or even idling at stop lights with AC on. Took it back to mechanic, reported my complaint and unusual timing of this sudden overheating, and mechanic said (after looking at it for an hour) that all work that was done by him "checks out" … translation: "water pump is working". Mechanic says he doesn't know why it's suddenly overheating, and suggested that we take it to a radiator specialist. I replaced thermostat, made no difference. Mechanic is done with it, and attributes the overheating to issues unrelated to his work. Any thoughts on this, or what might be causing the sudden overheating?
I got an 03 cruiser that was over heating it shut down added water fired back up ran about 2.5 miles started making a horrid noise shut it off and now it won't start at all now even on either
i just went to a shop by me and asked how much to do timing belt on my 06 pt cruiser he said with parts and labor including water pump $ 500 not bad
Good video, it helped me on the tensioner.
you should never drive the balancer on, it should always be pulled on with the bolt or with an installer, pounding on the front of the crank will transfer the impact to the thrust bearing leading to excess crank endplay and engine damage.
I don't know about the most recent Italian design of 4 cylinder hotrods but Chrysler had always refused to use interference fit valve timing on any of their motors. More than probable total engine failure on a Honda or Toyota but never with Mopar.
It saddens me to see that not one (so far)of these DIY videos even suggests using anti-seize on these old rusty fasteners when replacing them. Leave it to the next person to break a stud or bolt and smack his/her knuckles when it does. Contrary to popular belief, it isn't rust that holds a car together.
O yea sorry great video everyone do what he does
I hate my life I’m doing my moms pt cruiser that broke I feel like I’m in to deep I should’ve planned on yanking the 2.4 out and replacing all the gaskets and putting the belt on then. Someone please smack the engineers who designed these pt bruisers.
My 05’ belt broke while my dad was driving. Had it towed home, going to try and replace the belt this weekend. When I get ready to put the new belt on do I just line up the arrows and marks as shown here or is there a method to finding Top Dead Center?
Probably a NOOB question.
Dope Thanks Man!!
Just a note the 2.4l does have Valve clearance.
Great video. Always looking for the no nonsense approach and you’ve got it here. Thanks
I'm proud to let folks like YOU work on my car !
Hey there: Yes I can I check see if the water pump is working b4 I take it a part & is it a good I deal to flash out the radiator flash it out see if the water movies around. Oh can I leave out the thermostat while flash it out b4 I put the new thermostat & a new thermostat. So I hope to hear from you real soon b4 I flash the radiator out okI'm calling from Houston Tx
If u go a lil to far with the timing belt tensioner it actually makes it harder to put belt on. Like a few degrees before is the easiest youll get. Atleast for my 06. Its also possible to do this plus the whole head gasket job without disconnecting A/C. You just need a small enough rachet and enough strength to get that short bolt off the cruiser control bracket.
Noob question. Is this for turbo engine too?
Ok so she did the dashboard tach key switch code and the results were.. Po688
Po508
Po123
Po108
Po522
Ive looked these codes up and idk man.. Haha. Any opinions? Let me know. Thanks