Oil Pan Gasket Replacement,Oil Pump Inlet Tube O Ring Replacement 2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.3

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement,Oil Pump Inlet Tube O Ring Replacement 2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.3

Oil Pan Gasket Replcement with Oil Pump Inlet tube O Ring Replacement.

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spelunkerd says:

Nice review, it’s great to see this done.

stuzman52 says:

Good job Rick. Now go in the house and warm up and relax all day for New
Year’s. And slow down just a little bit or you’re going to make us all look
bad (smiling)…

Steve Rob says:

Well done. I have had a front diff leak since I bought my Silverado in
2002. I started out zip tying a rag underneath to catch the 1-2 ounces it
leaks every year. This fall when I changed the diff fluid I decided to put
some synthetic 75w-90 in instead of the conventional gear lube required by
GM. To my surprise I no longer see any fluid leak on the drivers side cv.
shaft bearing seal. Not sure why but my guess is that the synthetic fluid
is not sitting on the top of the seal anymore and flows down too quick to
cause a leak. Worked for me. Let us know if your engine noise is any
better.

spelunkerd says:

It was interesting to see that stretched bolt — pretty surprising. Overall
I’m not sure torque is very critical for most of these bolts. It’s easy
enough to ask for exacting torque from the robots used to assemble new
vehicles, but for repair the sequence is often not optimal for exacting
torque anyway. Cheers!

ArmaAceChannel says:

hey is it necessary to lower the transfer case? 

Archer Finley says:

Dude, you’re awesome. 

Sounthone Lothirath says:

I’ve been looking for a video on this known issue with the pickup tube
o-ring and finally found one, Great job! I have a question. Did the engine
ever tick before you changed the o-ring? “Tick not a knock or a piston
slap.”

terry winkelman says:

hi I like your video man I just did mine 4 months ago and it still leaks in
the back two corners where did u put your gasket sealer at on those corners
and how far did you go around with it 

jim holtse says:

Pulled the heads off the old motor before it goes in the scrap pile and
dropped the pan to have a look. Front crank journal had no rods on it,
hole in the pan and a broken timing chain. There was so much sludge in it
I would have never got it cleaned up. I had tried flushing it out but
evidently wasn’t gaining on it. Am running mobile 1 high mileage in the
current motor, think I will stick with it.

Raul Velez says:

Thanks for your help is not easy but I did it……same temp. 27 degrees

Robert Mahaney says:

excellent video quality . well done

arturo maldonado says:

your the first one to post on replacing the oil pan gasket on the vortec
with a 4×4 setup,great video, i have a 2006 with 75000 miles on it and
started using syn.oil
and it started leaking oil, i was wondering if you also change out the oil
cooler
gasket on the side of the oil pan if so what is the torque on those two
screws.thanks for the video!!!

Greg Farrell says:

GASKET COMPLICATION! I am not auto repair expert, just enough tools to be
dangerous (breaks, easy-to-access parts). Tried this gasket replacement
today, all put back together still had a leak over the filter. Did some
internet research of this problem, realized from others that the oil filter
part of the gasket (2 round holes side by side) had broken off the original
gasket and WAS STILL STUCK on the engine block when I put the new gasket
on. Of course I had already over tightened a bolt and broke the corner off
of the oil pan before I found out what my problem was. Now I have a $200
oil pan problem and a 2 day wait.

Anyway thanks for the video, very helpful, hopefully my new pan and gasket
(same gasket since it was only on for 10 minutes, I cleaned it right back
up, good/bad idea?) will be leak free after this… and my torque wrench
should arrive tomorrow too. 

ArmaAceChannel says:

these trucks are notorious for oil pan leaks.

jim holtse says:

I ran mine too long with a bad suction tube o ring and ended up throwing a
rod through the pan. Oil pressure light was on at every stop light for a
year or so, didn’t want to spent to muck on it with 225,000 on it. Put a
salvage yard motor in it that is supposed to have 107,000 on it. Runs
great, I did replace the o ring on it before I put it in.

caudjs says:

Rickafix, Did you have to remove one of both drivelines? Just at the CV
joint where it meets the transfer case? or the axle nut at the hub? I still
can’t get the oil pan passed something up front, doesn’t seem like I need a
lot of room just some.

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