This video will walk you through the basic procedures for replacing the halfshafts on a 1994 chevy s10, however the procedure is basically the same for any t…
This video will walk you through the basic procedures for replacing the halfshafts on a 1994 chevy s10, however the procedure is basically the same for any t…
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Same on 2001 2 dr blazer LS 4wd?
well currently i have replaced both cv axles, first the left side because
the old one was broken completely. then in 4×4 it would jerk right and left
like the cv axles were fighting each other, so then i replaced the right cv
axle thinking it was bad as well and now with 2 new ones it still does the
jerking. Having the torsion keys up all the way be a factor in this
problem? there’s no specific timing of the cv axles to keep the knuckles
on each side aligned?
Great video… thanks
The lower control arm is not that hard to replace, after you take the ball
joint off, there is 2 more through bolts that attach it to the frame. The
whole assembly then comes out. Hope it goes well for you.
Thanks for the vid, it is a lot of help. but, while taking the wheel off,
my lower control arm is broke, just at the point of the lower ball joint.
do u have or know of any videos of removing the lower control arm? Just my
luck, this started out as a cv axle and a tie rod end, but surprise 😉 .
again thanks for the vid.
Sounds like a bad cv joint for sure.
So my s10 has a clicking sound. Only when i turn into a driveway and the
truck is in motion could it be a cv joint
Minor suggestion: If you’re pulling the steering knuckle completely,
there’s no need to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle (unless you’re
going to replace that too). Note: The axle bolt is on at about 180 ft-lbs,
so removing is going to take some effort!
Pulling the hub bearing was easier in this case because the lower ball
joint nut was very stripped. The axle nut was not that hard to remove, just
have someone hold the brakes.
Great video
good video with step by step instructions – this is exactly what the
DIY’ers need
you are very welcome
thank you so much for such a good video step buy step unlike all the other
shitty ones i have seen.
Thanks for the comment, hopefully your axles hold out for a while yet
It will not be exactly the same but it will be very close. Take axle nut
and wheel off, remove tie rod and ball joint, pull axle out of diff and
knuckle. All trucks like that are pretty much the same.
96 blazer is pretty much the exact same procedure. It really is not a
difficult job, took me a little over an hour start to finish and I am no
professional mechanic. Good luck, thanks for the comment.
Sounds like a fun project. Good Luck.
O boy looks like I’m going to have fun 96 blazer fml
Good advice and vid.
quick question do you have to change both cv joint axles are just one thank
you
I would suggest first trying the tie rod extractor. Tighten down the jack
screw but don’t over tighten it, if it doesn’t come, try banging on the
knuckle some more with the tie rod extractor still on.
Any advice for if you cant get the tie rod end out? I took out the pin,
took off the nut, hammered a bit where it goes through to try and loosen it
up, then tapped on the bottom of the bolt and it still wont come out, it
wont even budge.
is it the same for replacing the axle on my 1994 chevy z71
this is awesome! finally a video on how to do this a early 90s S10!! thank
you
Thanks man. I know I will have to do this on my 2000 4×4 blazer one
day…It’s similar enough in design, this video was an awesome walk
through. I think the previous owner must have went through deep water
because the boots arent torn, but have slung a lot of white foamy looking
grease out. I got one of those grease needles and was able to grease them
without poking the boots…went in through the thick rubber under the boot
clamps. Hopefully it will delay my having to replace them too soon.
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I’m broke and working out of my garage
so buying new tools wasn’t an option lol. It took a while and I ended up
having to hit it lightly a couple times with a sledge hammer to finally get
it to pop out. Thanks for the video, seems like yours is the only good one
out there for help on how to do this, awesome job.
Sometimes they are stubborn. If hammering does not work, you may be forced
to use a pickle fork. You can also use a tool called a tie rod extractor,
Google search it if you don’t know what it is. You should be able to borrow
one of these tools from your local autozone or orileys. Be advised that you
may damage the boot with these tools and may shorten the life of the tie
rod.
Jsohn thanks for the great video, this has been helping me a lot as I am
replacing both CV’s on my 1986 s10 due to all the boots being TOAST. I just
got everything off and out on the drivers side including the steering
knuckle because I can see that my ball joints are both riveted in still so
they are the originals with 124k miles on them, so I will be tackling
replacing both of them as well. And to top it all off I have new set of
shocks I hadn’t put on yet so nows a good time haha!
Thanks a lot. Most of the specialty automotive tools like that can be
borrowed from autozone or orileys. They loan a tool out, charge you when
you take the tool but give you a free refund when you bring it back. It is
a great program i use regularly
It is highly recommended to change both and i would never change just one
but it will be ok if you have no other option. Your not really going to
mess anything up, it is more of a “good maintenance practice” thing.