Proper initial timing on a sbc is about 11* before top dead center on the
compression stroke of the first cylinder (or advanced) for anyone who wants
to know. Also, just a fun fact, it really doesn’t matter where the dist
drops in. Most guys want to point the #1 post toward the #1 cylinder, but
as long as you run #1 plug wire wherever it falls, and run the rest of the
wires per firing order clockwise (18436572) it will work fine. There is a
timing advance curve, and total timing as well. Get yourselves a timing
light, and a timing sticker for the balancer, it makes this job a cakewalk.
I had a similar problem with my cutlass. The springs were actually rusty. I
bought a kit from autozone that had new springs (3 to choose from) and the
new brushes, the kit was like 5 bucks so don’t throw that shit away,
recycle, and feel good about going green! 🙂 GL2U Thanks for the share,
looks like a sweet ride… Also, testing the vaccum advance is easy enough,
just have the gf suck on the line and watch…
i just fully reset my distributor on my 85 k10 305 because the timing was
off and now it wont stay running it bogs and i have no throttle response ,
will any change happen if i turn the cap with it not running so i can
atleast start it to time it properly? also would a misplaced plug wire make
a tapping noise like valve lash or lifters?
help!!! i changed my intake monifold but i forgot to mark my distributor
what the best way i can get it in right the first couple times? i have the
wires on the distributor cap still.. if that helps..
@councilman1993 The line lines up with the arm that im holding in 4:14 ,
the pressure during the compression stroke is high enough to blow your
finger off, then after that just turn is over with a breaker bar and bring
it all the way to the top Good Luck!!!!
2 issues here. I think it would be a lot easier to mark the intake manifold
in relation to the rotor position,therefore no need for a timing light
wouldn’t you agree?? and 2nd I would never stick a screwdriver into the
spartkplug hole you run the risk of destroying the cylinder wall or
damaging the piston.use a straw it’s much safer..Good Vid Though :):):)
yes. the line with what. And how close does the cylinder need to be to the
very top dead center. The crank can turn 1 /16 rev and the piston can
hardly move. Could you really feel pressure blowing you finger off? Wascomj@cox.net
@MORPHEUSou812 Those are two very valid points. We would have marked it
prior to pulling it out, but the timing was already off in the first place.
And as for the screw driver, we probably should have used something that
wasn’t metal, but the way in which he was holding it, the piston would
force it out of his hand, and if anything, putting a scratch in the piston.
But yea, the only thing we really had at the time was a screw driver lol.
I wouldn’t let these two guys wash my car. This could have been so much
easier had they just marked the location of the rotor and the location of
the housing before they pulled the old one out. Also, they got lucky. How
did they know the piston was on the comptression stroke? Could have been on
the exhaust stroke. This had a 50% chance of being 180 degrees out.
Proper initial timing on a sbc is about 11* before top dead center on the
compression stroke of the first cylinder (or advanced) for anyone who wants
to know. Also, just a fun fact, it really doesn’t matter where the dist
drops in. Most guys want to point the #1 post toward the #1 cylinder, but
as long as you run #1 plug wire wherever it falls, and run the rest of the
wires per firing order clockwise (18436572) it will work fine. There is a
timing advance curve, and total timing as well. Get yourselves a timing
light, and a timing sticker for the balancer, it makes this job a cakewalk.
I had a similar problem with my cutlass. The springs were actually rusty. I
bought a kit from autozone that had new springs (3 to choose from) and the
new brushes, the kit was like 5 bucks so don’t throw that shit away,
recycle, and feel good about going green! 🙂 GL2U Thanks for the share,
looks like a sweet ride… Also, testing the vaccum advance is easy enough,
just have the gf suck on the line and watch…
old school…..
Thanks guys! Just the info I needed!
thnx guys i got a 77. gonna replace mine soon good vid
Great video, thanx!!!!!
how to set timing syncronizer on ford windstar
i just fully reset my distributor on my 85 k10 305 because the timing was
off and now it wont stay running it bogs and i have no throttle response ,
will any change happen if i turn the cap with it not running so i can
atleast start it to time it properly? also would a misplaced plug wire make
a tapping noise like valve lash or lifters?
u can not fuck eneything for using a screwdriver unless crazzy forcy its
just a limiter 2 figure out were its all at hes good
where did the line on the distributor housing come from?
it should just slide right out no lube required,look at that shaft. lol
help!!! i changed my intake monifold but i forgot to mark my distributor
what the best way i can get it in right the first couple times? i have the
wires on the distributor cap still.. if that helps..
@whocaresnow2 Its the arm i’m holring in 4:14
another guy who fails to tell you were he’s picking up power for this
distributor.
1:14 lol
hand cranking is better
Wow
@councilman1993 The line lines up with the arm that im holding in 4:14 ,
the pressure during the compression stroke is high enough to blow your
finger off, then after that just turn is over with a breaker bar and bring
it all the way to the top Good Luck!!!!
2 issues here. I think it would be a lot easier to mark the intake manifold
in relation to the rotor position,therefore no need for a timing light
wouldn’t you agree?? and 2nd I would never stick a screwdriver into the
spartkplug hole you run the risk of destroying the cylinder wall or
damaging the piston.use a straw it’s much safer..Good Vid Though :):):)
wow
@MORPHEUSou812 Yeah but its better to be 100% sure right?
i changed the distributor on my ford after watching this video thanks for
the help boys
how do i repace one on an l98 gm 1987
0:34 is it supposed to move like that
wwwwww
nice
i was wondering where i can get power for my hei distributor? its a 1963
chevy truck with a 350
camera man sucks a dick
yes. the line with what. And how close does the cylinder need to be to the
very top dead center. The crank can turn 1 /16 rev and the piston can
hardly move. Could you really feel pressure blowing you finger off?
Wascomj@cox.net
I would disagree on the “junk” comment….the hei isa gret unit.
@MORPHEUSou812 Those are two very valid points. We would have marked it
prior to pulling it out, but the timing was already off in the first place.
And as for the screw driver, we probably should have used something that
wasn’t metal, but the way in which he was holding it, the piston would
force it out of his hand, and if anything, putting a scratch in the piston.
But yea, the only thing we really had at the time was a screw driver lol.
@quadkiller13 u can put a Msd box on it .it will give it more fire power
make the fuel burn better .
I wouldn’t let these two guys wash my car. This could have been so much
easier had they just marked the location of the rotor and the location of
the housing before they pulled the old one out. Also, they got lucky. How
did they know the piston was on the comptression stroke? Could have been on
the exhaust stroke. This had a 50% chance of being 180 degrees out.
“yah thats the way it should be kids. It should just slide right out no
lube required. god look at that shaft!” funny shit