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New Four Wheel Drive Actuator from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ib/1AFWA00004
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a transfer case shift motor that is not working, engaging or is defective. This video is applicable to the 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Chevy Suburban.
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver http://1aau.to/omW/1AXAA00013
• Channel-Lock Pliers http://1aau.to/oy/1AXAA00139
• Thread Sealing Tape
• Floor Jack http://1aau.to/ocV/1AXAA00068
• Jack Stands http://1aau.to/ocZ/1AXAA00065
For More Info visit us at http://1aau.to/h/Ee/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Will that make your 4 wheel drive light come on
What’s the reason for changing this?
What can i do if the tube the actuator is attached to has cracked
My actuator wouldn't unscrew cracked in half leaving the threadded portion of the plastic stuck in the front diff/axle assembly. I had to heat the metal with a propane torch to soften the plastic and pry the plastic appart and out. The threads of the original actuators were glued in with some white material. after prying the old plastc actuator end out I had to clean the old glue off the threads with a dremmel wire wheel so I could thread in the new actuator. I wish GM had used teflon tape instead of glue.
It would really help when you change a part out to say why you are changing it out so consumers know that this is what they need and why it needs to be replaced. It's great that you can show consumers how to do it and they can decided on whether to take it in or tackle it themselves.
It’s funny how he is a professional mechanic , using all the right terminology for tools and supplies. However he does not know how to properly use tongue groove pliers.
Any idea how i can get mine to free up… its in tight and i cant get it broke free
So glad i watched this first, i couldn't imagine paying $$ for labor and marked up cost for part to someone else to do this simple job.
(Changed out the actuator)
The easiest way to fix. Is disconnect the battery. Put it in 2×4 again from the switch. Reconnect the battery your SUV or truck so go back to normal. Or just take the shaft off until you have the money.
i have the same problem that James Schols had
I bought this transfer 4WD Actuator (Dorman Part Number 600-101) for my 2011 GMC Yukon 1500 that has 64,000 miles after my 4×4 quit transferring between 2H, Auto, 4H and 4L when I selected these settings with the 4×4 selector switch.
This part fits perfectly and was easy to install. No one at the parts store told me to buy Permatex "thread goup" (Part Number 59235) so I had to make the "second trip of shame."
My Yukon 4×4 works like brand new… in fact I had to switch to Auto this morning on my way to the store on an icy hill!
Symptom:
The most telling symptom – I think, is that if I started the Yukon and switched the selector switch between 2H, Auto, 4H or 4L then put it into R or D the transmission would often be in neutral… meaning the D or R would not engage and pressing the gas just revved the engine…. when I moved the gear shift back into P from D or R the Yukon would make a grinding noise in the front… like the actuator could not engage the front axle and the gears were just rubbing.
Also – the "Service 4×4 System" was displayed on the dash.
What I was doing when it failed:
I was pulling my kids in 4H in deep snow on Christmas Eve in the mountains. When I tried to transfer into 4L to turn around on icy/snowy ground by selecting 4L on the selector switch nothing happened (the light on the selector switch stayed on 4H (and no blinking light that usually happens when you change from 2H, Auto, 4H or 4L happened). It seemed like the selector switch was not working and the vehicle seemed like it was in 2H (rear wheels spinning).
I had to drive home on mountain roads in what seemed to be rear wheel drive only. The Yukon's anti-slip was doing its best and the anti-slip light was lighting up but the anti-slip was only so effective pushing a heavy Yukon up hill on ice. It was a nightmare!
Over the next few days my Yukon would show in random selector positions when I started it – i.e., I'd shut it off in 2H and when I started it it would be in N, or I'd shut it off with it in 4H and it would be in 4L when I started it up. I tried many 4×4 switch (2H, Auto, 4H, 4L) / gear position (P, N, D, R) combinations but was unable to correlate any combinations of switches / gear positions to being able to put the Yukon into 2H, Auto, 4H or 4L.
I will say that once I got the Yukon in 2H it would stay in 2H until I moved the 4×4 switch. I drove it for 3 days in 2H until I fixed it.
Should show plug in old and new units to be sure it is the actuator working and not working while out of case. Otherwise it could be the encoder motor bad and you sell the customer a $50 plus switch when they really need the encoder motor, which the part is non refundable if installed and find it was not required. But then dealers want to sell try it parts so they can sell two or three parts when a test could save buying un-needed parts, especially electronic items with no refunds. Just saying.
Thats Pretty neat so it makes all four of the wheels move but if it goes out it's only two wheels moving from the front or back