This is how to fix intermittent ABS and Brake dash lights on all Chevrolet vehicles with the Kelsey-Hayes 325 EBCM module. You may have code C0265 “Electroni…
This is how to fix intermittent ABS and Brake dash lights on all Chevrolet vehicles with the Kelsey-Hayes 325 EBCM module. You may have code C0265 “Electroni…
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Thanks for the video bro. I have no idea how much it would have cost to fix
at the dealership but it did’t cost me shit thanks to your video. ABS and
Brake light are off again can’t fukin believe it!!! Worked great on my 03
GMC Safari
wat was the problem. tf?
Thanks for the info!
Any “Traction Control” issues?
Nice Truck and Good Info-
Almost 92 thousand hits… really GM? Love my Chevy’s but get a damn clue!
This is a very detailed video and this worked very well for my 04 Chevy
Blazer. God Bless sir .. you saves me lost’s of $$$$$$$$
Thanks for posting this!! Great instructions, saved me $450 for my mechanic
to fix/rebuild. I had two torx screws that wouldn’t take the bit, but used
some compressed air for cleaning keyboards and it cleared out the debris so
the bit seated properly. They are tough to access with the 3″ of clearance
above. After that everything went pretty smoothly. No more warning lights!
Thank you for sharing the how to repair video.they really want too dang
much for those modules new. so nice now knowing what it takes to fix. I
send you blessings of Abundance joy and happiness always amen. thanks again
I’ve seen nothing but issues with ABS system on blazers and Jimmy’s second
gens, my girlfriends 99 GMC Jimmy does this. And thank you for a video on
how to fix. Cause it was replace or get rid of the ABS system
The six white spots are a heat transfer paste to remove heat from the
components and transfer it to the aluminum cover which acts as a heat sink.
That paste needs to be replaced with new/fresh paste or the life of the
components may be shortened.
This is a common problem, but it is not the only problem that can happen
with these modules. Unfortunately the Relay can go bad in addition to a
transistor. I fix these modules for a living. If you are still having
problems after attempting this fix go to asapspeedometer () c o m Best of
luck
Once again science and knowledge overcomes ignorance and superstition.
Followed your instructions and your fix worked great. My first try at
fixing this was to go to a salvage yard and buy a used unit from the same
vehicle as mine (2000 GMC Sonoma). Guess what, it had the same problem as
my original. Plan B was to remove and repair the existing unit. Been three
weeks now with a couple hundred mile trip in the interim. Have not seen any
ABS/Brake since.
Why do Americans say soder and not solder ?
GREAT !!! video ….. lots of help !!! o the white stuff is heat sink
compound…. for obvious reasons probably most of why soldier joints failed
.. thanks
Mechanic wanted almost $2000 to fix… Have a Kelsey Hayes 325 module. ABS
light on, code showed abnormal resistance in motor. Motor never runs.
Tested motor on external source and found 5.8 amp draw and sounds normal.
Resistance across motor was less than 1 ohm. Opened up the module as you
suggest, found the solder tabs on the motor connector broken away from
board. Resoldered. Reinstalled and tested perfect. Thank you very much for
your help. In these hard times it is so much appreciated.
Skizzot7, thank you kindly for your helpful video. I didn’t want to risk a
bad solder job, so replaced the entire ebcm, $490 at the Chevy dealer.
Would also like to point out the largest of the 3 connectors has a pink
locking tab that should be pulled away from the ebcm before disconnecting
the connector from the ebcm. Also, care should be taken when removing the 4
T-20 torx screws. They can strip out if your T-20 torx bit is not lined up
nice and straight.
Thank you for making this video my 01 blazer was doing the same thing if it
was cold out light would not come on if it was warm out it would be on I
followed your video and now no abs light!
Just back from installing the box…works great! After studying the large
multi-pinned connector, I am VERY suspicious of it being the root cause of
the intermittent action. After I pushed it in and locked it, it still moved
about a bit! The pins are very small signal pins and if there is any size
discrepancy on the female mate, I could see an issue for intermittent
contact. I reseated my three connectors about 10 times each while I had the
truck on a lift. I still like the video!
Final comments: This device uses a two-sided soldered board. If there are
bad solder joints on what you see, there are probably a lot more on the
side you cannot see. I am strongly leaning toward tarnished external
connectors as a primary failure mode for the light-on issue. When observed
under a magnifying glass, they have very small footprint/contact patterns.
Again, re-seating the connectors would be a good place to start before
removing the unit from the vehicle.
Again, a great video! I just opened the box and re-soldered several points.
You made this easy and if it works, it saves all of us boo-koo bucks!
Thanks! I’ll know tomorrow if it makes a difference when I reinstall it.
Some observations: The paste is between the case and the thermal sinks for
several high-heat power devices. While I am sure standard silicone-based
paste will work, the paste should be a thermal transfer paste. It can be
found at radio shack and other stores. I noticed the main connectors into
the circuit board are where you are soldering. It may be the connecters
themselves are tarnished and when they are reseated, they fix the problem.
I would suggest re-seating all of the connectors first.
More observations: The seal on the case is fairly smooth when cut. I just
applied a thick bead of RTV and resealed the case. If it fails, I probably
need a new one anyway, with 200,000 miles on my 2001 Silverado.
Thanks for the detailed video! Nice work!
Crap was said 17 times.
I made the hole in the floor and got that bitch off, after cutting 3 of the
heads off, 1 screw actually came out like it should have… my board was
exactly the same, but my bad solder joint was not. Mine was one of the 6
energizing coils for the valves, blatantly obvious, pulled clear out of the
board. I touched over most of the connections anyways and I’m now 2 days in
with no eff’n lights! Thanks again 🙂
How in the heck did you get to the for screws while it was on the truck? No
clearance will its mounted. Did you take it off the frame?
I have to apologize to those 11 people… GM used the cheapest shit T-20’s
they could find. I have a midwest truck and mine were eff’ed up even before
I touched them! GM couldn’t have spent another 20 cents on stainless t-20’s
that might have lasted in an EXTERIOR environment. It’s an 01 with 130K and
I’m NOT busting the lines loose. The seat will come out tomorrow and I’ll
have a new hole in my floor, I can weld, I don’t care 🙂
11 people are too damn stupid to take it apart.. Nice work sir, A+
I had a C0265, CO241, and C0285(I think) with ABS and Brake light on. I did
as instructed on the video. Maybe my eyes aren’t that great, but it was
hard for me to tell if the solder points had any visible damage, so I went
ahead and soldered everything on the board. I have been driving the vehicle
(2002 Chevy Suburban) for two days now and have not seen the light come
back on (which it should have by now). Torx 20 and an end wrench worked
fine for getting the EBCM on and off.
Thanks for the video. I got a C0265 code. I followed your instructions and
my Yukon is now fixed! Thanks for the video and good work!
Skizzot – Please post a PO Box or something, so we can send you some of the
money we all saved because of your fantastic video. MANY THANKS!!!! Worked
perfect for me!!!!!
OMG! This absolutely worked for me. Couple of addtional thoughts that may
have been covered in the video or commetns (didn’t read through them all):
1. Buy a new tube of RTV (don’t reuse your old tubes lying around, they
won’t cure correctly, then you’ll have to disassemble again and re-do, like
I did) 2. Use a 1/4″ drive ratchet with a 1/4″ socket and a T20 torx bit to
remove screws 3. Plug in the single connector in the back BEFORE
reattaching the module-can’t access after installation
Hello skizzot have you had any problems with light s coming on thank you
for this video
My 2000 Tahoe LT 5.3 had this problem. I did exactly as show on video and
it worked as demonstrated. Thank you Skizzot
Very thorough. Thanks for posting this.
so if you have this problem does that mean your abs is not working
properly? mine only happens like every other few starts, and sometimes not
at all. im about to just pull the lights out of the dash.
Hereby I want to send a special thanks, first for taking the time to do
this tutorial and thanks to this this day I could repair my suburban 2002.
From Mexico … many thanks.
^^You only need to pull the EBCM for shipping to bba-reman. You can drive
the truck without ABS just like any vehicle not equipped w/ ABS. However,
do NOT let the internal components of the pump get wet whereas they will be
exposed once the EBCM is removed. Wrap plastic around it and duct tape it
all around…then do it a few more times for good measure. I recommend
cutting out plastic in the EBCM shape w/ a small tub insert for clearance
of the six parts that stick up and then RTV it on.
Thanks for the video! I used this video and repaired my 2001 GMC Sierra
1500 EBCM and the lights haven’t came back on since the repair (2 weeks
now)! Thanks again for a very helpful tip that saved me hundreds on
repair/replacement!!!
Many thanks for your clear explanation. I has helped perfectly me to fix
the abs problem of my Chevy Blazer 2.4 Advantage Flex 2008 (Brazilian
built). Because I am not experienced in solding circuitboards, I asked the
local television repairman to do that for me. Which he did without any
charges. Total costs $ 5,00 (R$ 10,00) spent on the silicon gasket. Weak
connections that were noticed: the solded points that fix the multipin
connector to the circuitboard.
I fixed my abs and traction lights on problem. i tested all the abs sensors
with an ohm reader and found no sinal from the right front end replaced
ithad an old one laying around from when I changed the wheel bearing hub
drove for a few minutes and both lights cleared
Very good video. I have a 95 blazer. Bought it second hand… abs never
worked. changed everything. Going into the module again thanks to your
video. Hope i get it fixed. I now know what to expect inside. thanks
It looked like a heat transfer point for the circuit board. I’ll take your
word for it that it does what you say. Nice video.
What silicone are you using for the electronic board contacts? Can you name
the product manufacturer and type as i don’t want to permanently stick
those components to each other.
Great video! This saved me over $1500! Followed the procedure and even
though I could not see any visible cracking in the solder joints, I went
ahead and re-soldered the 6 connections. To my great pleasure, the lights
have been off for over 3 weeks now whereas before I couldn’t make it 1 mile
without the lights coming on. Thanks for your time and effort in helping
everyone stay out of GM’s pocketbooks!
i spnd more than 2000 bucks on my tahoe 01,and my problem still there,now
worst,after i drive for a bit,brakes locked completely,at the point truck
wont move,could be a sensor bro?
As for the cluster, oil from your fingers isn’t a serious issue. It’s not a
critical component and would be a more long term issue if any. I’ve done
this type of stuff on military satellite communications equipment and it’s
better to just do it right…. But I wouldn’t worry about it. Neither of
these boards reach extreme temperatures anyway. As for the motor running,
mine wasn’t. That seems to be a closed circuit issue to which I’m
unfamiliar.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, whether it worked for me or not.
Like Grapevine, I didn’t see any bad solder joins either, but touched up
the ones you found bad on yours, just in case. My pair of lights used to
come on only when the system seemed to get warm. On days below 60 degrees,
I would never see the lights. But when it got over 60, they’d come on. In
the summer, the lights would come on within a couple miles of driving.