For quite some time, my truckling has been suffering from a vacuum leak that would sometimes make the climate controls not work (especially under hard accele…
For quite some time, my truckling has been suffering from a vacuum leak that would sometimes make the climate controls not work (especially under hard accele…
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I checked mine and had the exact same issue ready to happen in the same
spot – but I went one further and replaced all the vacuum line with some
high quality high heat heavy duty orange silicone type vacuum line ive been
waiting to use for years. wish I could find some more of this stuff, holds
up really well under engine heat.
I have a 1987 Chevrolet S10 blazer.My temperature control is a up and down
lever as well as the controls for the direction of the air…defroster,
A/C, heater,etc…. Mine was stuck on heat at the beginning of summer and I
had someone “fix” it for me. It is now stuck on A/C. Any ideas how to get
it back on heat? The lever for the temp control moves freely (no pressure)
like it is not hooked up. I assume they changed something under the hood
last summer because I know they did not take the dash out.
Thnx mucho. Vacuum leak was my problem !!
I’m glad to hear the video helped you out. Tell you what…I’m not much on
beer, so feel free to have one on my behalf. And enjoy your truck! Thanks
for watching, and feel free to leave a comment or write a message any time.
Last week I noticed that I had no air out of the defroster or floor. I
originally thought it was something mechanical. Thanks to your video I
discovered the hose from the right side all the way to the middle of the
engine was dryrotted. Got a new hose in, but busted that tiny hose you
commented on. Thanks to duct tape and that valve piece, I have full air in
all positions again. If you are ever in Oklahoma I’d like to shake your
hand and buy you a beer!
I don’t know where it goes when it goes down into the fender, and I don’t
recall where it hooked up on the engine. It should be somewhere around the
intake manifold, however. Many dealerships will print a vacuum line routing
diagram for you at no charge.
Thanks. It’s a Pioneer KEH-1900. I wanted to get a truck with the stock
tape/CD radio, but GM must not have made too many with that set and trying
to get that model after the fact just wasn’t happening. So I put this in,
and it worked pretty well over the years. I’ve since traded this truck off
for a 2007 Silverado Classic. Though it too had the CD player only disease,
I *did* manage to find the stock CD/cassette radio for it. Which is nice,
because I like the RDS function.
nice tape deck
I’m having the same issue! I have no idea where it goes. the other two
tubes are in great shape but the one that’s disconnected is dry rotted all
the way through. Bought a new one and plugged it for now, but I need to
know where it goes! Can’t find anything
If you could tell me were that hose from the straight t comes from I might
be able to fix mine to, my problem is that the hose is gone and I do. Not
know we’re it is coming from.. Thank you
I think I owe you a beer uxwbill. I was just about to tear out my dash and
replace the whole control panel. The vacuum hose was trashed. Thank you so
much for posting this video.
Yeah, great freakin place! And how the heck do you replace it? Mine is
about as rotten as the other hose which fixed my problem with the Max air
and defroster not working! I’m scared to mess with the other one. Put some
mink oil on it and will maybe put some silicon or epoxy. Scared to pull it
off as I sure as hell don’t want to have to pull my fender well off!
Thank you for the video… can’t wait to try this. Have a feeling this is the
cause of the weak air flow. Goes exactly where it’s supposed to go, just
very weak.
Has anyone had a vacuum leak at their mode selector switch (the one to the
right of your TEMP control switch). Mine leaks intermittently, some
positions make louder “sucking” sounds than others.
For those of you that didn’t solve your problem with this video.It could be
a bad transfer case switch that draws tranny fluid into your vacuum
lines.All kinds of fun from there.Check out s10crewcab(dot)net there are
guys on there that have been through it all w/ the s10s.
I ordered a flap door actuator for $40. Then I found your video. I pinched
off the hose and reconnected and the vents worked better. I have a 94
Sonoma and I see a lot of vac lines dry rotted. Now I am on a mission to
change all the lines.
It looks as though the line can get pretty bad before it makes the climate
controls not work. Mine was visibly cracked and yet the controls failed
only under hard acceleration (low engine vacuum). Check to see if the
compressor is actually running when the truck should be air conditioning.
If it’s not, you may have a low refrigerant charge. If the compressor is
running, check the blend door, which is driven by a DC motor and gearbox.
I’ve seen those break after many years.
We call those spare car parts that are left over after repair “Car Parsley”
I just finished replacing my heater core and I have such a vacuum leak that
the engine keeps stalling. After watching this video, I found that one of
the hoses was separated, and when I went to duct tape it to see if it would
help,another one pulled apart. The third one (the one that disappears into
the fender) is rotting as well, but I’m going to leave it alone for now and
hope replacing the other two fixes my problem.
that line you didn’t want to pull on goes to the charcoal canister its
mounted inside the driver side fender
Probably not. GM’s automatic climate controls usually use servo motors to
operate the various doors and flappers in the system. The system in my
S-10, while largely vacuum driven, uses an electric motor just as the
automatic climate controls do. This motor assembly can fail. When it does,
you usually get cool/cold air out of the vents. The last one I saw (in a
1997 Bonneville) had actually cracked one of the drive gears. Shop around
for the best price, as it varies widely!
Check the electrical grounds, especially at the battery!
Faulty grounds are the most common reason for this kind of behavior.
We’ll the electrical stuff can be annoying, but those old push rod engines
will last a long time if taken care of.
If you go to a Chevrolet dealership, their service department should be
able to print a diagram of the full vacuum line routing. None have ever
charged me for this service.
I have already done it once. It sucks. Never again…
@4321rooster I’m not sure where it goes. I didn’t have to pull it out, and
it didn’t look like something I wanted to do. If you go to a Chevrolet
dealership and ask the service department, they should print you a sheet
from the factory service literature that shows the vacuum line routing.
I was having the same problem a for a few days then watched this and no
more problem THANK YOU!!!
can not change temperature control changed control unit and still full heat
even with A/c compressor running
I’m having an issue with the A/C in my car aswell. Can you look at my video
explaining the problem? I’d appreceate it if you could, its starting to get
pretty anoying lol.
@bae313 Illinois USA.
For an “emergency” or short term fix, yes. For a proper long term fix, no.
Thanks! I was just about to start removing the dash and really dreading it.
My truck had the same problem and when I checked the vacumm line it was
cracked the same spot as yours!
What is that little piece that you guys say not to break? Can you tell me
the part number or what it is called i have some how lost mine?
where does the other line on the tee go
@HamHockLV You are welcome. I’m glad this video helped you out! The engine
likely *will* run better, as a vacuum leak will throw certain things off if
it’s bad enough. I don’t recall what size of hose I used. I probably did
the highly precise thing and used whatever was laying around that happened
to fit properly.
thx Uxwbill, this video helped a lot I got the same issue on my 2000 blazer
I bought 2 months ago or so and need to fix this b4 winter comes and I
can’t c out my front window
hahaha you guys are so funny. I’ve got a vacuum leak too on my ford taurus,
I’m hoping its easy like yours !
thanks for the response
i have a 2000 chevy s-10 blazer with the same 4.3L,the prob i have is that
the air only blows thro the front vents..i also have the same set up where
that T vacuum line is when i got the car the vacuum hose that goes over the
brake booster and i cant find where it hooks up to.Ive looked and looked
and looked around the manifold but nothing, ya gotta pic or vid showing
where that vacuum lines goes at..
I have a 99 s10 do yourself a favor and replace all the vacuum lines around
there they will all go. And when it gets old enough expect to
replace….u-joints, tranny seal, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, fuel
pump, and if you live in a place where cars rust then the entire bed of the
truck they rust bad. Oh and the door hinge pins too. but the engine and
tranny on these trucks are solid though.
same exact thing with my truck…thanks for the info, did yours make a
humming/clicking sound when coming to a stop or taking off at low speeds?
@tripovermyego Any ideas on what you think it could be? If it helps, it has
the 4.3 Vortec and is 4wd.
They both do. I get warm air and thats it. It never gets too hot…
Thats not a beer..Yes it is..lol
I have the exact same problem and I was wondering if you found out what was
causing the front axels not to engage. It is driving me nuts
you guys are lovely and acceptable !! 😀 priceless video for s10 owners !!
i have this hose exactly rotten but never figured out what was it for !! 😀
. thank u .
it wont let me post links for some reason.. just type in ( vacuum switch
blazer ) it the search bar and watch the first two vids, first vid shoud be
by Mark Jenkins, and the other is by 1aauto
I have a 96 s10 4 banger I had the same prob I just fixed it the hose I put
was 7/32 and the fittings were size 5/32