In the past few months driving along the dirt roads here in Alberta, I hit something and it punctured a hole in my driver’s side muffler. While new mufflers …
In the past few months driving along the dirt roads here in Alberta, I hit something and it punctured a hole in my driver’s side muffler. While new mufflers …
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it’ll be smart to combine your trick with JB weld epoxy
This bitch sounds cammed, why on earth would you fix THAT
@bergercw That requires owning or borrowing a rivet gun, but yes, would be
much easier for sure.
i may reccomend shooting for a screw gun, and getting self taps, they are
amazing for repairs and assemblies! i bought a ryobi run gun and drill,
awesome combo.
cool
I had the same thing happen to me but i just used JB Weld.
I’ve never used pop rivets for this kind of job, but I would have been
tempted to try them here, with a little JB weld to seal better. When you
eventually change out the muffler, will you do it yoursefl? Seems like a
really awkward job to do, lying under the car.
@JoeSchlubb I still have the Fiero, now in red, but I sold the S-10 after
getting a 1998 Silverado. Needed to start pulling horses around and the
S-10 wasn’t quite made for that.
i personaly would have used rivits not screws
Yup…they leak and are mechanically unsafe, thus are in violation of
pretty much every rule.
@randomrazr Always…I like to run them into the ground. 🙂
For a better repair I would have repaired it using an a/c tig welder
running at 240 Khz, 1/16″ zirconia electrode & titanium filler wire in a
helium/hydrogen purge chamber , but your way works ok too.
my pipe came off the muffler it was so rusty!
Maybe with a fair load of Holts Gum Gum below the plate it would have
sealed the thing for good…(?)
About a week with screws before it would loosen to the point of being loud
again. Even epoxying them in, they’d rattle out. Rivits would have been
better.
who needs a muffler! just cut a whole in that box ..and keep it like that 🙂
Later on I did…it still failed.
What’s up man how long did this last for Cruz I have that came problem
@BOBKB3NZX Yeah, the screws were self tapping but was worried ripping the
metal so I hand screwed them in to be sure.
@spelunkerd Yes, will be doing it myself for sure. I’ll have the car jacked
up higher and it’s not a tough job. Pretty much just involves using a
reciprocating saw to cut the pipe close to the muffler, cleaning the ends
and clamping down the pipe to the new muffler, give or take some cursing
and hammering to get old stuff off.
Self tapping screws would have been easier to use. Good job though!
Thanks for this idea. So far it’s working great on my car!
@tonystewartracingfan Yeah…in the notes, if things were too leaky, some
muffler puddy around the edge would be perfect.
Hey that’s great idea. But where in the world do you get the sheet metal
from??
i see, I have a similar problem but my issue is that a connecting flange
has rusted through. My solution was to buy a flex pipe with clamps at
either end, and clamp it together. Any idea if this is up to safety codes?
Wondering do these kind of repairs void any Safety and Emissions tests? I
live in Ontario and they are required once cars are over 6 years old.
ballpeeen hammer
I accidentaly unsubbed from you a while back due to me fat fingering the I
Phone, Well the good part is I have alot of videos to watch now. Do you
still have the fiero and the 99 S-10? Moving is a pain, I know first hand,
but it was worth it for me.
Maybe, rivits would have been better, ended up replacing the whole thing
however, which of course is ideal.
I think I ran it for about 8 months or so…with rivits, I probably
wouldn’t have ever had to replace it but the screws kept backing off, even
when I epoxied them in. I need to link the video to the replacement
muffler, much easier in the long run.
Lots of hardware stores have it in stock…Home Depot or Canadian Tire.
good man! u still got the wagon!