I really question whether you really torqued that to 118 ft/lbs… You must
have very powerful wrists, because you applied no effort at all! Get some
new torque wrenches champ… Your’s are lying to you!
Great Vid. when your taking the Rotor of, if you leave the nut on the top
of the screw , it will protect them if you accidently hit the screw with
the hammer
when you mention taking it out of park with the caliper off.. dont forget
that if you have the key between the LOCK and ON position you can take it
out of park without touching the brake
After watching the whole video, you might be able to use the same technique
to remove the wheel bearing if you were to keep the lugs tightened close to
the rotor by using washers or some other spacer. Cheers!
bah, thanks for taking the time to make the video! A trick I learned about
getting the rotors off more easily is to get a threaded bolt that fits
through the caliper mounting holes. Put it through one of the holes that
will put it up against the rotor, thread the nut on the bolt and start
tightening it from the back side. As the bolt tightens, it will press up
against the rotor and break it loose!
You’re so lucky. I have a Mazda mx3 1995 and the damn bearing is on the
knuckle. I wonder if they rent press kits on auto-stores… I might try it
myself
Btw, sorry for another comment but how the big nut stays on the axle? If
there is no pin that holds it from “rolling” out? If i just tighten it by
hands, is it enough and safe?
so how can you tell if that needs to be replaced..thanks..my car is wanted
to jerk foward when driving and turning at the same time..when driving
around 50 mph and turning on an on ramp the car feels like its swaying
foward and wanting to jerk foward..
seems that the solution to this broblem is to beat it with a hammer. should
change the name of the video to beat the bearing with a hammer. haha Very
funny but very instructional. Thanks man.
If the nut doesn’t have the option to insert a codder pin… You can just
make an indention on the outter ring of the bolt (after you tighten the
bolt to spec) with a flat head screw driver and hammer. It will prevent it
from moving. I hope that helps
PB Blaster penetrating oil. Spray it in from the back, and from the front
at the lugs, let it sit for 10 minutes, then give the rotor a good, hard
whack on the hat with a heavy ball-peen hammer. If that doesn’t work, break
out the oxy torch and heat the hat.
Unfortunately i don’t have torque wrench, but i just tightened it up today
by hand and put a pin, just in case. I have replaced my hub today and i
don’t remember when i last time was so tired, like today. But i had a bit
luck there and it was easier than i thought it will be. I mean the rust and
things, i had the right chemicals and expensive new tools. It’s done now.
Now i must replace front brake discs and pads. It was too late today for
them.
5 mins to get a rotor off, I would be fired from my job haha. Swing that
hammer like a man. Using crapsman tools don’t help much either. Get
yourself some real automotive tools like some snapon’s.
i went to UTI Sacramento and snap-on tools break too. so why buy one
snap-on tool when you can buy a whole set of tools for the same amount of
money. they all have the same function. and craftsman tools also have a
lifetime guarantee.
){kind=link}
heat
I really question whether you really torqued that to 118 ft/lbs… You must
have very powerful wrists, because you applied no effort at all! Get some
new torque wrenches champ… Your’s are lying to you!
Great Vid. when your taking the Rotor of, if you leave the nut on the top
of the screw , it will protect them if you accidently hit the screw with
the hammer
when you mention taking it out of park with the caliper off.. dont forget
that if you have the key between the LOCK and ON position you can take it
out of park without touching the brake
The prybar prevents the rotor from moving when he is securing the nut to
the spindle.
Depressing the caliper cylinder into the bore beforehand makes for easier
caliper removal FYI.
What was the prybar for at the end?
Thanx for the ‘real life’ video.
WD40 or similar, plus, put a thick piece of solid wood between the disk and
some suspension arm then tap to force insert the the wood.
After watching the whole video, you might be able to use the same technique
to remove the wheel bearing if you were to keep the lugs tightened close to
the rotor by using washers or some other spacer. Cheers!
bah, thanks for taking the time to make the video! A trick I learned about
getting the rotors off more easily is to get a threaded bolt that fits
through the caliper mounting holes. Put it through one of the holes that
will put it up against the rotor, thread the nut on the bolt and start
tightening it from the back side. As the bolt tightens, it will press up
against the rotor and break it loose!
Is your hammer ok? lol Great vid, hope when I have to change wheel bearings
they slip in and out that easy.
i guess… but it might have a screw to push it away from it to release
when the abs light come on ,does that mean the wheel bearing r bad
The front driver side wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I also
replace the other side even though it seems to be okay?
You’re so lucky. I have a Mazda mx3 1995 and the damn bearing is on the
knuckle. I wonder if they rent press kits on auto-stores… I might try it
myself
oh yep that’s idiot proof lol haha!
You didn’t feel like it wtf lol hahaha
when you go to remove the caliper from the disk use a screwdriver to push
the piston back. makes life a hell of a lot easier
@mdk70454 lol a slowbalt 😛
Btw, sorry for another comment but how the big nut stays on the axle? If
there is no pin that holds it from “rolling” out? If i just tighten it by
hands, is it enough and safe?
its a little too much baning if you know what i mean?
so how can you tell if that needs to be replaced..thanks..my car is wanted
to jerk foward when driving and turning at the same time..when driving
around 50 mph and turning on an on ramp the car feels like its swaying
foward and wanting to jerk foward..
this is the exact clip ive been looking for ! for the removal of the old
hub and bearing ! thankyou!
one of the few vids on youtube which shows the actual struggle of working
on vehicles
There should be two holes in the rotor that you insert 8 mm bolts and that
will pop off the rotors…much easier than smacking over and over
seems that the solution to this broblem is to beat it with a hammer. should
change the name of the video to beat the bearing with a hammer. haha Very
funny but very instructional. Thanks man.
@CoolasIce2 It probably wasn’t, my torque wrenches are cheap junk. I’m
gonna buy some better ones once I get a few paychecks.
You can use PB Blaster to help loosen rusted parts. Better than penetrating
oil.
Should of just used a gear puller.. lott easier
If the nut doesn’t have the option to insert a codder pin… You can just
make an indention on the outter ring of the bolt (after you tighten the
bolt to spec) with a flat head screw driver and hammer. It will prevent it
from moving. I hope that helps
PB Blaster penetrating oil. Spray it in from the back, and from the front
at the lugs, let it sit for 10 minutes, then give the rotor a good, hard
whack on the hat with a heavy ball-peen hammer. If that doesn’t work, break
out the oxy torch and heat the hat.
Unfortunately i don’t have torque wrench, but i just tightened it up today
by hand and put a pin, just in case. I have replaced my hub today and i
don’t remember when i last time was so tired, like today. But i had a bit
luck there and it was easier than i thought it will be. I mean the rust and
things, i had the right chemicals and expensive new tools. It’s done now.
Now i must replace front brake discs and pads. It was too late today for
them.
good beat sounds like the song “eye of the tiger” lol
Great video! You should get a kneeling pad to save your knees though.
لو انا صاحب السيارة والخبل هذا يضرب بالطريقة هذي كان حطيته مكان الهوب
@hp11208 I’ve only got a few grays lol
Cotter pin you retard
5 mins to get a rotor off, I would be fired from my job haha. Swing that
hammer like a man. Using crapsman tools don’t help much either. Get
yourself some real automotive tools like some snapon’s.
@ShelbyGT500R1 Yeah, thats what I did with the prybar at the end.
i went to UTI Sacramento and snap-on tools break too. so why buy one
snap-on tool when you can buy a whole set of tools for the same amount of
money. they all have the same function. and craftsman tools also have a
lifetime guarantee.
Arent these torch-specs always f.instans 118 degress + 90 degress / 180
degress bye eye ekstra?
i love how you spent so much time trying to smash off the rotors.. Isnt
there a better way?