Lower Control Arm Replacement 2001 Buick Century GM

Lower Control Arm Replacement 2001 Buick Century GM

Now The Disgruntled Mechanic installs a Lower Control Arm on a GM 2001 Buick Century Custom with the 3.1/ 3100 engine

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The Disgruntled Mechanic
P.O. Box 12
5 E Roosevelt Ave
Elysburg, PA 17824



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Murada says:

I have to do this to both the passenger and driverside on my car. I thought that Torx bit would be a pita but I'll take that over having to change out the bushings and the rivited in ball joint been there done that never again. Guess I have to form a battle plan to get that torx bolt off. Why oh why in hell would they use a torx bolt of all things on a suspension piece?

widtrak77 says:

Great video! Was this job done because of a bad ball joint?

kiggsia says:

This video was very helpful to me recently when I did this same job on my 2000 Century. And I too, had a real tough fight with that vertical torx head bolt. I kept soaking it with PB Blaster, and made a press tool with a C-Clamp and a large socket that straddled the torx head. I laid into that with all I had, and it would not break loose. Then I had to face up to how I'd probably have to get a cutting torch, I didn't know if my sawzall would work. But I removed the clamp, squirted more PB Blaster in the rusty, seized bushing and bolt, and tried again, really cranking down hard. Finally I heard that dramatic "CRACK", and I knew that meant I either broke my press tool, or the bolt finally broke loose in the bushing. I was lucky, the tool was OK, and the bolt had finally broke loose! So I too, know the fight these rusty bolts can put up! I really appreciate when mechanics like yourself share experiences, tips, know-how and shortcuts, thanks so much for sharing!

Petia Novakova says:

whats size torx was that you used? thank you

K S says:

I zip tied mine too since the ones that came with the Dorman abs wire harness were bigger than the holes in the GM control arm and I didn't feel like getting the drill out

Big Dog50001 Automotive says:

Zip ties to the rescue! Nice job Mike.

The Snap-On Tool Review says:

I subscribed just because you're "DISGRUNTLED" HAHA I love it!!

Thomas EXOVCDS says:

Wouldn't be fun if it all came apart easy… no? 🙂

buzzsah says:

I gave up working on my van 12-15 years ago when I found a 3rd generation backyard mechanic, besides I got tired of changing the plugs on my astro van.

wyattoneable says:

Solid work Mike. I think you have bigger hammers than Eric. lol Is the jack you used a new tool for you?

Andrew Thompson says:

oo what did you do (not say) during the hour removing the rusty bolt? How to handle things that do not go well is what it's all about. Keep up the good beer!

stuzman says:

Good video Mike and good comments below and annotations in your video about tightening the bolts while the car is on the ground. Take care…

ZIGgassedUP says:

You earn't that beer Mike..

350munro says:

Good job. We don't have weasels in Australia so we use possum piss, it works well but not as well as the fully imported panther piss which I think comes from Russia.
Were you gruntled before you became disgruntled?

super coupe says:

so what happens if you do tighten the bushings with no load on them, cause I've done it in my early years of turning wrenches and never had a come back.

Badgertronix says:

Good job Mike. Always a battle in your climate!

The Plow Guys says:

Good job buddy. I will give ya a call when I need to change mine. I will buy the parts and provide the beer. Helga can cook yeeeehaw!


Well done with the weasel piss . LOL

Nick Nicu says:

You should never tighten rubber bushings while the suspension is decompressed. You will put the bushings into a bind just as soon as the car will be on the ground. You need to tighten the nuts loosely,lower the car on 2 by 4s or similar,in case there isn't enough clearance otherwise to get to the bolts and tighten them.

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