This is the first in an engine building series that focuses on blocks. I talk about general machining and options for rebuilding or starting a new motor. automotive engines diagnosis repair…
This is the first in an engine building series that focuses on blocks. I talk about general machining and options for rebuilding or starting a new motor. automotive engines diagnosis repair…
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I want to build a real transformer to protect the U.S.A. But I have 2
learn how to build a real car and then go through the rest of the rest!
I’m planning 2 have a transformer transform from robot, to a 2008 Buick
Lucerne built by 2045. Good luck to us all, and God bless America. :-)
Didn’t know where to post this question. I know the pistons are
directional. I have a set of reconditioned piston rods that are also
directional. There is a notch on one side of the I beam on the rod that
sticks out and the worn side of the connecting hole is opposite that notch.
I’m really trying to get this right the first time. Does that notch go up
or down in reference to the direction of the piston to front notch?
Perhaps I’m not looking hard enough to find that answer, but most of the
connecting rods I’ve seen installed do not have that. Thanks for any
response.
Used to dig through junkyards for high nickel content engine blocks. As
they are one seasoned from being heated and cooled over the years. Second
they can handle more stress and heat. Just know your engine casting numbers
and that $100.00 bucks will get you some gems.
I have a 96k mile ls1 that was left outdoors just under a tarp for over a
year and there’s some corrosion in one of the cylinders. It’s not locked
up, but I’m wondering if instead of doing all the machine work, would I be
better off selling my short block and buying a new ls1/ls6 short block.
Thoughts?
Think ima like this series, I wanna replace the engine in my 03 dodge neon
sxt with 187,000+ miles. I want to build an srt engine in my garage but
wasn’t sure where to start. This series seems like it will give me the
fundamentals so that I can decide if its feasible for me to build my own or
possibly buy one already built.
so sad we don’t learn in schools about building an engine… we learn other
crappy stuff instead of practical things.
so thank you ! and just want to say i appreciate your work! thumbs up
Thanks so much for this, As Rares said – Its sad they don’t teach us this
in school.
I just got an 84 351w engine. Bore is 4″ appears to not have been touched.
I paid dax hundred. I haven’t taken it to be tested but visually inspecting
it looks ok. Say the block is sound, I m not using any otherparts as I took
it all apart only the short block remains, what is it worth? I paid $600 is
this too much?
This was super helpful! I’m trying to learn more about the mechanics of an
engine and your videos have really helped me understand! Got a ’70 Chevelle
project car that my dad and I are fixing up so I’m trying to bring some
knowledge to the table 🙂 Even though he knows what he’s doing, I would
like to contribute something.Thanks, Pete!
hi pete, I’m wondering what your (or anybody else) thoughts are about
buying a GM overstock 5.3 block from summit? $400. My truck engine is
still running but its getting up there in miles. I’d like to be ready when
it goes instead of waiting for a rebuild. thanks, mic
Hello Pete, I have found what seems to be good deals on ebay. However, I
don’t know what brands are good. I don’t want a monster I just want the
vehicle to be dependable and last a long time. so with that, which brands
should I be looking at. I thought of fel pro gaskets, I am hoping the
crank can be saved and I don’t know what brand of forged pistons are good.
I also want as good or better than OEM. I really like your videos. Would
you possibly be posting transmission rebuild videos in the future? I am
also rebuilding my 4runner auto trans, and don’t want to spend over 700 for
the rebuild kit. What source do you have to help me too, I would really
appreciate all your help on this one. All in all I have 3700 total for
engine , trans , and steering rack. I plan on doing the whole rebuild
myself, so I am hoping to finish in 6months or so. thank you, I live in
Salem Oregon.
Thank you so much for spending the time to make these videos. They are
extremely helpful!
Great knowledge. Will be working on building a 302 for a 65 mustang in the
next. Thanks for the info. Your videos go into detail and you make
uneducated people (like myself ) feel comfortable learning about cars.
Subscribe
Nice video, great demeanor, thanks for posting
Nice vid but there was something I noticed on the explanation of the align
honing. Align honing is more used to fix front to back misalignment and
main bearing bore size. As engines are run, the main bearing bores are
enlarged and the shape becomes eccentric. Having a block on an engine stand
for several years can also cause the front of the block to sort of sag. The
main caps are ground just enough to cause typically a .002″ bore undersize
so that the bores can be align honed back out to minimum spec. Procedure
may be different if bore alignment is far off as every thousandth of an
inch that is honed off the bottom of the main bore brings the crankshaft
that much closer to the deck. However, I believe they sell oversized outer
diameter bearings for when the main bore needs to be enlarged but I am a
young machinist in the making will still plenty to learn.
This is really overwhelming.
I got a really random question, but is building an engine like building a
computer
Thank you for posting the videos. You have an extreme wealth of knowledge.
I recently acquired a Ford 302. Its a rebuilt engine, purchased from
Autozone about fifteen years ago, and has no run time on it what so ever.
It was sitting outside for a couple of months, before I acquired it, so I
decided to take it apart, and go through it. When I was taking the cylinder
heads apart, on the intake valves, there was an extreme amount of what I
think was assembly grease, it was red like it had rust in it, on the face,
and bottom of the valve stem. Is this common practice from engine builders
to seal the cylinders in some way, or do you think that it might be
something else?
Finally, explained for a laymen – WITH WORDS rather than screechy guitar
music, Thanks!
Your so fucking awesome dude.
I am rebuilding a 95 4runner, 3.0 4wd. I am looking for a dependable
rebuild kit, pistons, rods, ad possibly a new crankshaft. I am looking at
fel pro gaskets. I want forged pistons and good rods. what would you
suggest. I would prefer USA made. I also have a budget of about 1200
bucks. I am taking the lower engine machining class at my community
college to offset machine cost. By taking the class I may also be able to
machine my heads as well. Any advise would be much appreciated. Awesome
vids by the way.
Just bought a 94 cobra last week and i decided to build a fresh new motor,
at first i was shy to pull the trigger because its my first Ford, i used to
build turbo Volkswagens and this is a whole different world for me. Now
that i found your channel i will go ahead and start the build and hopefully
i don’t blow this thing up..thanks and I subscribed to your channel and
will be following all your steps..
Great video Pete. I was wondering, did u prime the block before painting?
good info….
I think its like building anything mechanical. You have to understand the
material at the chemical level. It is a science and a lot of problem
solving.
1200 for general machine work? Jesus.. I pay $350 for deck,bore,hone,
bearings, plugs and all
great camera work and highly descriptive with appropriate level of detail.
well done.
Hey Pete, nice video series that you did here. i’m just wondering what you
think of the 4.6 2v engine. I have one of them in my 02 crown Victoria. I
was looking over the next year or so to put some parts into it. I was
thinking of getting something like 350 HP out of it. I was wondering if you
would have any idea on the most cost effective performance parts I could
install in it.
Hey Pete, I thought of a question while watching the series (about to end
part 4), but I remembered you said something about vibrations or jerks or
movements in general effecting horsepower. If you were to minimize all
those things, would you notice a power difference on the dyno? Example :
Aftermarket urethane motor mounts
Thank you for putting this video up for noobs like me…it is much
appreciated.
Nice and professional. Thanks for giving so much of your time!
Is there much difference from the one you have vs. a 80 351w?
Hello +Petes Hotrods I love your videos, have watched this whole playlist,
buy now you got me thinkinh about what i wanna do. So, i have an old car my
father game me, its a chevy 305 small block, its from a 1983 Oldsmobile
Delta 88 Royal car, the car has 72,092 original miles, no oil leaks or
anything, (100% original parts, engine, tranny, and so on….) but the car
has been sitting out on ground for 10 yrs, no movement what so ever, so
berly pulled it out of the car, I want to rebuilt it, (do I need to?) so my
question is, should I rebuilt it? If so, should I go thru all this process
on ur Engine Building Knowledge videos?
thanks for this :D. starting to work on my 2jz by my own from the ground up
🙂 this should be fun 🙂 cheers :D
I wanna build a 2005 infiniti g35 coupe engine
I was looking on ebay and found a guy fairly local to me that is selling
built short blocks, I can get a ’86 to ’95 roller 302 block that has been
bored 0.030″ over. He states that he has heated, blasted, tumbled, and
magnafluxed the block. Block was bored and honed to 1/1000 of a inch and
then checked with a advanced dial bore gauge. Pistons are four valve
relief of either Federal Mongul or Silvolite, Hastings rings, Federal
Mongul crank and rod bearings, Melling cam bearings, and felpro rear main
seal and gasket set. The crank is new or freshly reground and the rods are
OEM Ford I beams. This guy is asking $850 for the short block basically.
I think this is a good buy for what I am wanting to do but wanted to get
your opinion on if its a good starting point.
I have a engine already but I am currently driving the truck and am wanting
to do this on the side to swap in later on. Its a ’82 F150 with a C6
transmission with a 302 that was rebuilt back in ’93. It has its issues
since it was rebuilt from the builder knurling the valve guides which
resulted in a engine that burns oil since day one. So I am looking at
starting my build with a ’86 – ’95 roller 302 bored to 4.030″ with
Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads, Edelbrock Performer manifold with a 600
cfm 4bbl carb and midlength or short tube headers.
Main goal of this engine is to build low end torque for the most part. The
truck has a 2.80:1 axle ratio from the factory and I went with 31×10.5-15
tires which is two inches taller than oem stock. So I am not wanting a
high reving engine but something that can spin up to 5,000 RPM and builds
majority of its torque below 3,000 rpm.
If you have any advice I would greatly appreciate it.
+Petes Hotrods hey! i was going to ask if you think i could get abut 400 hp
out of a stock 5.0 block out of a 94 mustang gt, and it last for a VERY
long time? And hopefully wouldn’t break my bank hahaha! if not, how big
should you go for a 400 hp engine that will last about 5 years? like a 350?
7.0?
P.S. your videos are great!
Hello, do you think that I could make an engine? I’m still in high school
but there is this project that takes the whole year to do called the MYP
project it is on something that I am passionate about, and I chose engines.
At the end of the year we present are projects to students, teachers,
parents and college scouts. If the colleges like are projects we can get
full scholarships, and building a engine is a great way to be noticed. So
what should I do?
Bad thing about asking who’s a good machine shop is usually the person
giving advise has no idea what good machine work really is .
Like the guy at the local parts store telling you what the best new fancy
plug is for your car .
The problem is 2 weeks ago he was flipping burgers & this is his 2nd job
ever .
I find a good machine shop by trying them out & then checking their work .
& even good machine shops can make common stupid mistakes & are not always
up on the newest technologies .
BTW some of the ‘ newest tech ‘ is crap .
I had a shop tell me that plain ole cast iron rings are the best to use &
that was in 2013.
So my point is you have to educate your self about what works good & what
works so so .
BTW regardless of how a deck looks & measures I would have it cut because
once its in the vehicle its too late .
As for cutting it too far well it is going to have to be cut to what ever
it takes to make it clean .
Just like heads , I have had some that only had to be cut 0.002 to clean
the gasket area & I have had to have some cut 0.015 .
When you’re working with old pieces as I said sometimes it just takes what
ever it takes & sometimes you have to start all over .
I had a block all done & wrapped in plastic .
Put it on a stand took off the plastic & found a tiny pin hole 2 inches
down from the deck in a cylinder.
It should have made a noise from the cutter hitting it when it was being
cut & it probably did but the machinist missed it .
My quest for an unmolested 351W has been unfruitful for the last 2 years..
I have all the parts to complete the entire engine build. lots of time
doing all the specs and planning that needs to be done for a performance
build, yet the part that should be easy eludes me.. Can’t find a decent
351w block and it drives me crazy… May just break down and buy an
aftermarket block but man they are expensive..
Hi. I have an aluminiumblock. What is the best way to clean the surface
from the old headgasket material that is sticking to the block?
I don’t dare to use a metalscraper on aluminium
what happens if order it from websites like Jegs or Summit Motorsports?
Thanks
So excited to start my sr20 rebuild! Amazing guide! huge help!
i have a question….older muslce cars had 4 bolt mains,is there a actual
performance differance than having 2 bolt mains,something i always
wondered
hey pete, enjoy your series and was wondering a couple of things…1 whats
the max lift on set of oem bbc springs. 2 can you get too much lift max in
your springs for your cam… meaning i have a cam that has .594 in 614 ex
and was gonna order springs that have a max of .800 lift so if i move to a
higher lift cam and not have to replace the heads
also can you use roller lifters on solid lift cam to eliminate friction…
thanks again
I’ve over heated my LS2 block twice due to radiator cap exploding off. I
guess the tune was too extreme for street driving… I started to get a
slight ticking after the second over heat. After a slight milling (.003″)
of the PRC 227cc heads, and replacing water pump, radiator, lifters,
gaskets the ticking came back after 30miles. checked pushrod length from
zero lash and some valves differed .050″ right next to each
other(intake,exhaust). Camshaft has gross lift of .648int .608ex. The old
lifters were scuffed up slightly, nothing too deep. I also noticed the
pushrods don’t travel straight up but im not sure if they did from the
beginning because i had a shop do the work. Is the next step to take the
block to the machine shop?