I would assume you can remove the thrust arm bolt and insert a new one
without needing to do anything on the ball joint end. Remove the plastic
linings first as it is the easiest to do.
My thrust arm bolt is loose on my driver side causing play/clunk. Do I HAVE
to do the pinch bolt thing to get to it? Or could I remove end link and
sway bar bushing and move sway bar out of the way. Figure ill do new sway
bushings while I’m there
Are you talking about the thrust arm bolt connecting to the subframe? Or
are you talking about the ball joint having play? If you are talking about
the bolt to the subframe, just remove some wheel well linings and get that
sucker out. Replace it with a new bolt and nut and you’ll be motoring
again. If you are talking about the ball joint, you are going to have to
remove the whole arm like in the video. The ball joint isn’t serviceable so
you need a new arm.
It’s the subframe to thrust arm bolt. I just assumed the bolt side is not
accessible without removing things beside plastic lining, but I haven’t
looked too much at it. I’ll have to get the car on ramps and look again.
The bolt side however is easy to get to. Worst case tho I’ll have to remove
sway bar bracket I bet. The bolt side is really tucked up in there as I’m
sure you remember. It’s a new arm so ball joint is A+
I didn’t notice more NVH than before. The difference is probably slight so
I wouldn’t count it as significant. No squeaks as I lubed it up with the
supplied copper grease and Mobil1 Synthetic grease very liberally. I
shouldn’t get any squeaks but it has only been a couple hundred miles and
then I put the car into storage.
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Just replaced mine and stuck with BMW OE.
Ignored the hype to look at other brands.
14 years and 127K miles on the originals is pretty darn good.
I would assume you can remove the thrust arm bolt and insert a new one
without needing to do anything on the ball joint end. Remove the plastic
linings first as it is the easiest to do.
My thrust arm bolt is loose on my driver side causing play/clunk. Do I HAVE
to do the pinch bolt thing to get to it? Or could I remove end link and
sway bar bushing and move sway bar out of the way. Figure ill do new sway
bushings while I’m there
Are you talking about the thrust arm bolt connecting to the subframe? Or
are you talking about the ball joint having play? If you are talking about
the bolt to the subframe, just remove some wheel well linings and get that
sucker out. Replace it with a new bolt and nut and you’ll be motoring
again. If you are talking about the ball joint, you are going to have to
remove the whole arm like in the video. The ball joint isn’t serviceable so
you need a new arm.
It’s the subframe to thrust arm bolt. I just assumed the bolt side is not
accessible without removing things beside plastic lining, but I haven’t
looked too much at it. I’ll have to get the car on ramps and look again.
The bolt side however is easy to get to. Worst case tho I’ll have to remove
sway bar bracket I bet. The bolt side is really tucked up in there as I’m
sure you remember. It’s a new arm so ball joint is A+
I didn’t notice more NVH than before. The difference is probably slight so
I wouldn’t count it as significant. No squeaks as I lubed it up with the
supplied copper grease and Mobil1 Synthetic grease very liberally. I
shouldn’t get any squeaks but it has only been a couple hundred miles and
then I put the car into storage.
Great video. Now I know what I will be getting myself into when I do mine.
Did you need an alignment after replacement?
So how is your BMW driving now after changing to Polyurethane bushings? Do
you hear any squeaks from the Polyurethane?