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Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a BMW E39. A faulty wheel bearing normally makes a grinding or howling noise when driving down the road. However before it came to that point I managed to catch the problem just by rotating the bearing by hand and will show you once it’s been removed. Beyond being heard, this can also be felt by hand too. It will have somewhat of a grinding feel, not smooth or stiff turning compared to what a new bearing should feel like. This particular vehicle I am working with here today is a 1997 BMW 540i.

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-metric socket set
-metric allen keys
-johnson bar
-ratchet
-hammer
-round punch
-brake cleaner
-interlocking pliers
-jack
-axle stands
-new wheel bearing
-threadlocker
-wire brush
-sandpaper
-torque wrench

Procedure:
-remove the wheel that is affected, safety elevate the vehicle and place the vehicle is on blocks or an axle stand
-first on the list is removing the brake assembly
-remove the 2 plastic caps covering the allen head bolts for the slide pins using a standard screwdriver, then use a 7mm allen key
-remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir to relieve any pressure when compressing the piston
-using interlocking pliers, push the piston back
-use a standard screwdriver to pop off the anti rattle clip
-lift off the caliper and tie it off using a scrap or bungie cord so it does put added strain on the brake line
-to remove the brake caliper carrier, there will be two 16mm bolts
-there will be a 6mm allen head retaining fastener for the rotor, then remove the rotor
-considering I have Sachs front struts, they are slightly longer than compared to the BMW OEM unit, so the pinch connection on the spindle assemble will need to be loosen and the spindle will need to be dropped down slightly
-remove the 18mm nut first, the bolt it’s connected to is a 16mm, this bolt will need to be removed to get the connection to separate a little
-remove the 16mm bolt above the pinch clamp to disconnect the sway bar end link
-you may need to jack up the spindle assembly to remove tension on the sway bar, the sway bar needs to be disconnected in order to drop the spindle down further
-now you can push down the spindle assembly
-unfortunately the wheel bearing flange bolts use high strength threadlocker, heat is normally used to make it pliable but considering it’s close to the strut, I have used brake cleaner instead
-there will be 4 18mm bolts holding on the wheel bearing, I found a mix between shallow and deep sockets with extensions were needed
-clean up the mounting surface with some light grit sandpaper to remove any dirt which may cause mounting issues
-it’s important to compare the old and new spindle to make sure it’s the correct part
-install the new hub, use one bolt to hold it into place
-I have already cleaned up these bolts, used a wire brush to remove any dirt and the old red high strength thread locker
-for this I am using a medium grade thread locker so it can be easier disassembled for the next maintenance interval
-tighten up these bolts in a criss cross pattern so the flange pulls down evenly
-torque specs for the 18mm bolts is 75 ft lbs
-then when you’re ready to push the strut into place, there will be an alignment sticker for the left or right side, align then, use a jack to push it into place and the pinch clamp bolt is tightened to 50 ft lbs

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