NOTE: I cannot provide technical assistance (I don’t even have a BMW, nothing but Lexus & Toyota here). If you need more information I recommend http://www.b…
Central locking relay replacement in a BMW GM5 module (3-series, X3, Z4, Z8)
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Can I just remove relays from a used GM and use them instead of buying new
ones?
i just have this question about this if i change the relays do i have to
reprogram the GM5 box
Thanks very much for a very informative video, now will c if that’s the
problem with my e46
Can I send you my unit for repair 07956185360
Thank you so much for the video. This was exactly what I needed to fix a
Z3. Total cost $32 for relays on ebay and 15 minutes. (with the proper
soldering equipment)
Saved over $800 over quote from garage. Keep up the good work!!!
Dude, you’re fucking awesome. You even showed us where to make bridges
in-case we fuck up. Can’t thank you enough.
Fantastic write up and tutorial!
The best I have yet seen with a very thorough walkthrough of which relays
to remove. I just learned how to check continuity. 🙂
Thanks mate.
Excellent DIY tutorial. I repair many keys where in the battery breaks off
or they have reached the end of their life and strange enough BMW tells the
client they need new keys because they don’t have a battery inside. What
nonsense.
Anyhow your tutorial helps sort out those strange one where the central
locking would work intermittently but the boot always opens.
Great video!!!
you said that two relays are for central locking, are those other two for
windshield wiper ? coz i have problem with them…sometimes work, sometimes
dont
THINKING I HAVE A CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM ISSUE ON MY 1994 BMW 325I
IT ALL STARTED WHEN I WAS MESSING WITH MY TRUNK LID WIRES TO THE LOCK
CYLINDER AS WELL AS THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK, I HAD THE PANELS OFF OF BOTH
OF THOSE THE DOOR AND THE TRUNK MESSING WITH THE WIRES AND SO ON… HAVE A
NOW WHEN I TURN MY KEY TO START IT DOES NOTHING, DON’T EVEN DO A CLICK
CLICK TO ENGAGE THE STARTER. THANK GOD I’M ABLE TO DRIVE BECAUSE IT IS A 5
SPEED MANUAL AND I CAN STILL PUSH START IT RUNS THAT WAY. I’M READING THIS
BMW BOOK I HAVE AND IT KEEPS TALKING ABOUT THE CENTRAL LOCKING DEVICE, I’M
JUST WONDERING WOULD THAT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE CAR NOT EVEN
TURNING OVER TO START? IT RAN FINE AS EVER UNTIL THAT DAY MESSING WITH
THOSE TWO THINGS THE WIRING TO THE DOOR AND THE TRUNK GOT INTO IT TO START
AND NOTHING AT ALL… I NEED HELP ANYONE KNOW ABOUT THIS? OR WHAT IT SOUNDS
LIKE???
HELP WOULD BE OH-SO APPRECIATED!!! THANK YOU KYLE
On my bmw the locking via remote doesnt work. Unlocking and opening the
trunk works, if i use the key on the driver door only the driver door
locks-unlocks. Do i need to replace the top or the bottom reley, so i dont
replace both??? thanks for your help.
Great vid 🙂 well done mate 🙂
It’ll be half of one of the relays, in fact of the double-relay closest to
the connectors it’s the half furthest away. The first time I fixed one of
these it was a bodge job with a pair of ordinary relays. You’ll need a
proper desoldering iron to take the relays out, they’re VERY difficult to
shift otherwise.
According to bmwgm5. com the furthest half of the furthest relay from the
connector plugs is energised when locking the driver’s door. Doesn’t seem
to do anything else. Search for bmw door lock schematic on Google to get
the right web page.
Have the exactly the same problem …
Hi today I changed those relays so now I’m getting clicking sound like the
doors are unlocked but the pins still wont go up! Do you think that it
might be the actuators? Any ideas? Thanks!
It’d be worth trying to source a wiring diagram for your car, you may be
able to figure out what’s common to the faults, whether all the duff bits
share a module, switch assembly, even a ground or supply wire.
Great step by step!
Very informative, helpful even if you don’t have this model, most of the
info about not lifting tracks etc. is quite portable, thank you.
Cheers mate, as so happens I was looking at BMW 318’s (E46) so will bare
this in mind when haggling on prices 🙂 Hit em with that curve ball lol.
Thanks for following that one up mate, much appreciated.
Haha, I’ve seen the teapot listing. And the hilarious spoofs it spawned.
Had me wondering if it was a subtle April fool’s joke or something!
Hello. My key remote stopped working last Day. But with The key all Works
fine. But No respond with The key remote. Is it because of this 2 relays ?
In that case I don’t think the relays are at fault. Your best bet would be
to ask on one of the online forums such as bimmerforums. co. uk
Depends where you are. Try Mouser Electronics.
You need to get in touch with the guy who repaired your GM5. I’ve only
repaired one and that’s just down the road from me!
I don’t know to be honest. All I know about BMWs is how to change these
relays. I drive a Lexus, not found any dodgy relays in there yet 🙂
Thank you for such a fast response. I will check the module this weekend. I
am a bit of a geek and short of the actual coil going bad, I am willing to
attempt repair of the actual relay in the event that I cannot find the
relays. I will check my module this weekend. Thank you again for the help.
Don’t thank me, thank the guy who runs the bmwgm5. com website 🙂
Great video. Just completed installing new relays. My PC board was
conformal coated, which is always a pain to work with. For anyone planning
on doing this, if your PC board is sealed with conformal coat you have to
scrape it off of the solder before you can suck the solder out. You were
correct, it takes professional grade soldering equipment to safely change
these relays. Luckily I work in a electronics shop. Brings a new meaning to
“don’t try this at home”. Thanks again.
looks owesome, question is where to get them relays?
I have tried both of My key remotes with New battery nothing happens. But
The button in The car to Lock Doors Works. And The key hole to. All Doors
open and Lock
Super hi instructions I have a question you have soldered a wire in 09:17
minutes for what is it? I must also solder wire? thanks for reply
Interesting, great video I am curious, where did you source the parts?
do you know how it comes that my left front window wont work with the
switch ? i can still open it with my keys and i just bought a new switch,
it’s from an e46 sedan 1999, (sorry for bad english)
If the central locking works when you use the key in the keyhole then I’d
expect the problem to be within the key. Have you tried changing the
battery?
Sounds like one of the relays is on its way out and needs replacing. The
first one I ever came across was on a friend’s car (I don’t drive a BMW 🙂
) and I think that was the same symptom, only unlocking when it felt like
it. It doesn’t matter whether you use the remote or the console button, it
always uses the same set of relays to do the job. According to bmwgm5. com
the double relay closest to the connectors is responsible for unlocking.
After soldering the relays has worked for two or three ententes and now my
other Purta closes only the driver, some welding think is wrong?
Hi, I have issues with my central locking and passenger, and rear windows
from the Drivers side console. Do you know if replacing these relays will
fix my issues. I did remove the GM3 from my car and ‘felt’ the two relays
working when I locked and unlocked the doors with the remote, so I am
doubting it is my issue. I am suspecting the Drivers side console with the
window switches. I am able to move the drivers mirror, but not the
passenger one. I can open the drivers window, not rear or passeng
Hi, in the end of the explanations when you remplace the relay, I just want
to know if you let the small electric wire on it or you remove it, to
remplace the pist who is missed. If an other pist is broken or out can you
tell how I must to do. Thank you very much
All I have is one of the spring loaded vacuum desoldering tools but I will
try. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again
Wow, i managed to fix it thanks to your tutorial! i soldered some wires to
bypass some connections and it worked.! many thanks!
I like that de soldering iron, where did you get it?
Glad you sorted it 🙂
I have just ordered V23072C1061A303 from RS components which I am hoping
will suffice. The relays in my GM3 were V23072C1061A309, so close model
number, and I cannot source the 309 unit. Can you confirm it will be OK
please.
My guess is that they’ll charge you a few hundred quid for a complete new
module, then more on top to code it to the car.
At around 7:00 you’ll see that I accidentally ripped up one of the PCB
tracks. The wire at 9:17 fixes it.
If you have the same problem I expect the same cause. This seems to be a
very common problem in the BMW door modules.
My guess is that the “high sensitivity” (i.e. lower coil current) versions
are a bit more flimsy (to make it easier for the coil). Also, one half of
one of the relays gets much more of a workout than the rest.
looks like it. I fixed up mine. problem was similar and getting worse and
worse. You can check if it is the relays gone, or no contact inside them:
remove the gm5 as shown, take the plastic cover off. connect it back and
listen while operating, if the relay clicks when trying to open, it has no
contact inside. might be just enough to clean it… somewhere below theres
my post about it 🙂
Cheers 🙂