BMW Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement : DIY [ How To – Part 1 of 2 ] /// 330i (E46)

BMW Wheel Hub Bearing Replacement : DIY [ How To – Part 1 of 2 ] /// 330i (E46)

(Part 1 of 2) This video demonstrates the DIY steps on how to replace your BMW’s Front Axle Hub-Bearing assembly. (This was after I received a few Estimates …

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bimmersgarage says:

I’ve asked for God’s goodness and prayed for a generous sponsor like yourself to donate a brand new HD camera system to our cause, so I can produce More and Better How-to videos in the near future. Thank you in advance!

Rene G. Solis says:

How come you don’t do your videos in HD bro, they are so grainy.

duskr bizcuts says:

is there any difference of using a 6point 46mm socket from a 12point 46mm socket and where can i get one for cheap?. oh and i didnt know i needed that kind of socket and i already knocked out the notch on the lip and put everything back together cause i didnt have money to buy the socket at the time and didnt know where i can buy one.. how safe is it to drive with the notch knocked out already?

Eric Castillo says:

Hi. My car makes the noise as i speed up and stays that way. when i turn to the left it gets worse, but to the right it does not sound bad, only straight and to the left. there is also a vibration at 45-55 mph and breaking. Could this be a wheel bearing issue? if so, could it be the right side or left side. how can i diagnose without taking the tire off? thanks

bimmersgarage says:

I can’t see why it wouldn’t be the same.. Just make sure the tools are the correct size for your model.

hrgp13 says:

I wonder if the same process in the 2000 323i

Bannox Noflikstee says:

Excellent video, many thanks! I replaced it myself, saving lots of money and I know its done well. My inner-bearing-race did the same. However I don’t have a puller. So I used a Dremel. But what I did was just scratch it enough to be able to put the tip of a screwdriver in it. I then could just hit it, not even hard, to turn it. Then it came of pretty easy.

bimmersgarage says:

Yes, the process is the same. You’ll just need to make sure you order the correct hub/bearings for your specific M3.

alroye46 says:

Hey guy. You have probably been asked this numerous times, but can I follow this DIY for my 2003 E46 M3? Very informative video.

bimmersgarage says:

You can use the same breaker bar and large torque wrench, however because of the rear axle, you need different bearing tools to remove them properly. Good luck.

MyNicePC says:

Can you use the same exact tools to remove the rear bearings?

Jonathon D says:

You mean Caliper? lol just giving you a hard time. Nice video by the way, thanks!

JORIK BORSH says:

i pleese you to answer me!!!

JORIK BORSH says:

HI bimmersgarage! I have an question( first of all SORRY for my bad english)!so i have an bmw 320d e90/91 touring 120 kw 163 hp 2006,i hear a noise on back right side of my car,it sounds like damaged bearing…I want to replace it by myself, i bought an NSK bearing kit for bmw e90,is the same to e91 touring?, if is the same i have another problem-the nut on my car is something like 42mm but the new nut on the new kit is 32mm the threaded hole looks the same… did u had these situations? thx!

Alex Whittemore says:

Calipers. Not calibers.

bimmersgarage says:

Thank you. Regarding the video quality… meh what can I say? I used what equipment I had on hand. However, I glad to know you were Still able to gleam some good information from the vid.

bimmersgarage says:

(On the First attempt??) Not everyone has steady hands and it would ONLY take one slip of the Dremel to permanently nik/score the kingpin. On top of that… trying to whack that notch even if you get a good cut would present more chances of the Chisel slipping and denting the kingpin AGAIN, if you slip or miss the strike. Too much risk of damaging your axle just to take a shortcut “easy” method, in my opinion. Obviously, one wouldn’t care if it was done to Someone Else’s car… just my 2 cents.

Rene G. Solis says:

Horrible video quality but otherwise pretty good video, although I would have liked to see more detail.

Nick Elias says:

the easiest way to get the inner race off the hub is to put a dremel tool and score a notch about halfway through the race and put a cold chisel into it and whack it with a hammer. Pressing it takes forever

bimmersgarage says:

There’s actually two dust cover per side (an outer and inner) Depending how rusty it is you may need to break them off. If the inner cover looks good, you may leave it as is.

alipate takau says:

good video, quick question , do i have to break the front dust cover?

bimmersgarage says:

Thanks. Glad to hear my video helped you. Just remember… if you had to replace one hub/bearing, it’s best to go ahead and do both sides at the same time to avoid any “staggered” wear issues in the near future.

WDX5 says:

Good job Man, very hulpfull &grate job,, Thanks alot

bimmersgarage says:

Thanks, I’m glad you were able to view my vids without much difficulty. When you say “noise”… what exactly are you hearing? Is it a constant sound or random? Does it occur when you hit the brakes/stopping?? I would need some more details before I could suggest any kind of repairs, let alone the costs involved. If you post a short video of said noise(s) that would help clarify the issue/problem you are having. Let me know when you have it posted.

Jessica Smith says:

I found the video to be great and didn’t have that much trouble seeing it as anothe viewer indicated. I have a 2000 323I and haven’t had any trouble with it since I bought it 11 years ago until just recently. Just normal maintenance. I thought the themostat went but it was much more expensive (about $600). Now I have the noise in my front right passenger wheel and I was hoping someone could tell me about what it will cost to have this work completed. Thanks for the videos!

bimmersgarage says:

indeed… I wish it was an Effect, sadly it is not. Blame it on the quality of the video equipment – iPhone 3G. Thanks for the comment.

Dan McClellan says:

This video would be great if I could see what the heck is going on through your crappy grain effect.

smart love says:

hello i have 540i … problem is when i speed 120 more my car is vibrating down side with stering .. machnic already change all bush and tyre and also did alignment 2 time even when i go more 120 speed till have same peroblem the car vibrating… can u give me any idea what is the problem have … thank you ..i will wiat for your reply

bimmersgarage says:

Without a video of your particular noise/problem – it’s just a guess, but if you have a annoying metallic whine at speed, then it’s very likely the hubs.. If you know that you’re still on your original hub/bearings then it’s definitely time to replace. Just make sure you double check the model number for your specific model/year when you order your parts. And, yes you Should replace BOTH sides at the same time. Do NOT replace just one side.. you don’t want to have staggered wear of the bearings.

Carnalismo88 says:

Hi, i guess its the same for a 320Ci?
I got a whining noise from the front left wheel at 60km h, 120, and more, i guess it is this wheel hub bearing? car is 12y old now

bimmersgarage says:

First, what Brand of hub/bearings did you buy? Second, you’re talking about the kingpin that the hub/bearing mounts to. If the kingpin itself does not have any scuffs or have any other markings that would indicate damage then it should be alright. Just DO NOT re-use the old axle nut! >Get new ones. Also, make sure the axle nut is torqued down appropriately to spec. If anything, you should notice how smooth and Quiet they are now, than compared to before. Thanks for viewing my vids.

DarkSim712 says:

Great Video! I recently replaced both of my front hubs on my 2001 E46. I was surprised when both of the wheel hubs came off with little to no force along with the inner race. The new ones slid on with little effort at all. I pressed with my thumbs on the inner race to get them on. Should I be concerned? Would the part that the wheel hub sets on possibly wear out? The side with the worst wheel hub was actually the easiest to remove and put on the new wheel hub.

bimmersgarage says:

You can find these large 46mm sockets at tools shops who work on semi trucks. I can’t say on behave of BMW why they used such a large axle nuts, but I suppose their engineers had their reasons. Here’s some interesting travia – Did you know some of the brake components on the E46 are shared from their bigger and heavier 7-series originally. So, they properly over engineered some of these parts that was used in their top models and just moved them down to the 3-series as time went on.

mccfrank2012 says:

Where the h*ll do you get a 46 mm socket – no one around here ever heard of one that big …some think I’m pulling their leg. Why would BMW ever design the whole assembly that way…oh I know…so they can sell over-priced tools!
Yeah I know 1-13/36″ is the same (almost)…but try to find that sucker!

Seems to me they way they designed later BMWs makes much more sense . Did the engineers sober-up for the later cars ?

highvelocity123 says:

I just did my fronts with no problems, the race slide off with a simple poke of a screwdriver. The new ones slide on very nice, plenty of never seize and a few light taps. The rears are a different story…they suck.

bimmersgarage says:

The procedure is the same but the part numbers would be different, of course. Just make sure you/your-friend get New axle nuts instead of re-using the old ones. Also, replace BOTH sides (Driver and Passenger Hub/Bearings) at the same time. You don’t want to end up with staggered amounts of wear on these bearings… Just a heads up. Good luck. And, thanks for watching my vid.

Lvd050 says:

Hey, first of all great vid. But my question is: Is this the same as on the E36 3series? I want to replace the one of my friend but he has an e36.

bimmersgarage says:

Yes also to your second question, you should replace BOTH hub/bearings at the SAME time, because you don’t want to have two different states of wear on those load bearings.

bimmersgarage says:

NOT a silly question at all, it’s for safety reasons (& peace of mind)Plus, considering a new one only cost around $8 (us dollars), you might as well replace it.
Yes, the notch has something to do with it, because if you re-use the old nut, the chances are very high that you’ll end up at the same spot once you tighten it back down & will Not have the “material” left to re-notch that spot on the nut, since you had to break that “notch area” to loosen it in the first place.

swizz85 says:

I know this may sound like a silly question but, I have to ask: why must the axle nut be replaced? Does it have anything to do with the knotch that is made into the axle?

Also, did you replace both front hub bearings at the same time, or just the bad one?

Thanks in advance

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