![BMW Thermostat Removal : DIY [ How To ] /// 330i (E46)](http://img.youtube.com/vi/S_Aoa865ul0/0.jpg "BMW Thermostat Removal : DIY [ How To ] /// 330i (E46)")
E46 main Thermostat removal. NOTE: You will need to remove the Radiator Fan (if you have a automatic transmission) to reach the Thermostat. So, here’s the …
BMW Thermostat Removal : DIY [ How To ] /// 330i (E46)
215
Like
Save
')){kind=link}
- Tags:
330i, Removal, thermostat
- Categories: BMW
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Thanks! Can you believe that my wahler OEM thermostat went bad after 2.5 years and 15k miles….?! I’m going to put another wahler on I’m sure I just got a bad one…
At 100K+, the Best advice I would give is to do a complete cooling system plus fresh BMW coolant and proper bleed afterwards. The radiator should be good to 150-200K, so unless there’s damaged (or some previous failure in some way) – it’s up to you. New fan-blades and waterpump pulley may need to be done also. If you have an automatic transmission – the mechanical fan clutch and Automatic Trans. Thermostat, that should be replaced too.
Hello, Need advice here. I have a 2001 BMW 330XI with 105K miles on it. I’m getting a P1619 fault code which is causing the service engine soon light to come on. The fix for this fault code is to replace the thermostat. My question is that while I’m in there should I do a complete coolant system overhaul (radiator, water pump, hoses, expansion tank and thermostat) or just do the thermostat and replace the other parts if/when they fail. I don’t wanna incur any extra charges I don’t need to.
If you never changed the waterpump and/or thermostat and it’s already gotten 145K miles, then there’s no need to guess… You need to replace those parts back at 75K ago. Once that’s done, you need to refill the cooling system with proper coolant mix (50/50 BMW coolant & distilled water) and Bleed the system to remove all air – to prevent overheating the motor again. Good luck.
Hey guys I know this was not my question but the same thing is happening to my grandpa 5 series.. If I let the car idle it will idle fine for a long while. Its when I start to drive and have it in gear that it starts to heat up fast. It is an Auto with about 145k miles. My Grandpa had been using water for the most part so my first assumption was the water pump being corroded or thermostat. When I pop the hood I hear wind rushing out and its coming from the pump area with the car off Any suggests
DO NOT purchase generic coolant (prestone, store brand, etc.) You should use BMW antifreeze (coolant color = blue) and mix it properly 50/50 with distilled water – to achieve best cooling and to protect the aluminum block. BMW coolant is silicate free, phosphate free, amine free, and borate free. This keeps everything nice and happy among all the dissimilar metals, plastics, seals and rubber in the cooling system. Just a friendly heads up.
thanks saves a ton of money dealers kill me !!!!! how important is thee coolant type alot of coolant { prestone etc} say any vehicle WTF??
You’re welcome.
Thank you very much!
I mean refill with coolant lol
Hey I just bleed my car …using yer method…I kept the car on for awhile and drove it around the block, and no overheating…thank you for your input, I will refill my water in the morning when motor is cold
But I also seen a leak….so something is probably busted??
Okay I will try that…..I have 128k. Auto trans
If you never bled the system before, it’s best to follow the (non-start engine) method as per Bentley manual. It will usually take 30 minutes or more to do this procedure correctly so be patient and do it slowly. It would help if you elevate the front end of your vehicle to help evacuate the air bubbles too. Use only BMW coolant, mix with distilled water in 50/50 mixture.
How many miles are on your vehicle? Auto. or manual??
Thank you.
I noticed a leak of radiator fluid coming from under my car, I checked my coolant and its full, I took it for a spin then the needle slowly starts to go to overheat, I waited for the motor to cool off…and when I took off the radiator cap the coolant starts to burst out violently, I tried to bleed it out ,then steam came out from there for 1 minute…any ideas what this could be???
Hey I have a question
I think you did a great job on video; even added still shots.
I also have an E46 330i and i need to do change the thermostat too. I will also change the waterpump and all the pulleys and the belts.
I will flush the whole cooling system and pour new coolant in…HOW did you bleed it properly….i read so much about runing the engine and pouring it in at the same time, other say just turn on the ignition….Could you please explain it to me? Thank you :)))
I`m glad he uploaded this video.No one(mechanics or shops) is willing to share trade secrets about how these things are done.Its a lot easier and cheaper to watch this guy bust his knuckles and try to grasp how this is done.Thanks for the upload!!!
This job would have taken less of his time if he hadn’t wanted to record it to help us. While I agree it would be nice if it was in focus, we have no business being rude to him.
focus holy hell
Above and a little to the left of the water pump.
No – you can use a long 32mm open wrench with a mallet. There’s a video on YT that shows you how to do it. Basically, you put the wrench on the bolt connecting the fan with the water pump and then whack it as hard as you can with the mallet toward your right (so, not lefty-loosey, you’re going righty-loosey). That will loosen the fan from the water pump and then just keep unscrewing it by putting the wrench down there and veering right and repeat til it comes off!
If there was room for a tripod in the tight space of a BMW engine bay, I would have done it. Thanks for the input though.
Your videos would be better if you keep the camera on a tripod to keep focus steady. Otherwise, good info.
Come on now, it’s not that bad. I was mainly concerned with the specific item that I wanted to remove (the main thermostat), that’s why I did the close-up view. I didn’t want you to get distracted with seeing all the other components around the front of the engine. Glad you watched my video though.. Thank you.
This vid sucks, why are you zoomed in the entire time?
It’s very possible. However, if you have not done a complete cooling system refresh, which BMW highly recommends at every 65K, then you are way over due. I would be very concerned whenever the temperature gauge moves pass center. BMW engines are strong when well maintained but get are very fragile to heat damage. I suggest you do a complete system refresh at your 167K, instead of trying to diagnose one component at a time.
My temperature gauge goes into red when I run it cold first thing in the morning. I then shut off car then it’s back to normal. Also get a program fail safe mode code sometimes. Could this be faulty temperature reading from bad thermostat? I have 167k on my bmw
Do I need like some special wrench to remove the fan? Please let me know asap….
NO, it is not necessary nor recommended to use any kind of sealant/gasket-maker on the included rubber gasket or thermostat. It seals from heat and pressure – it needs to be allowed to expand & contract. Just make absolutely sure the mating surface of the thermo block is super clean.
I like your video. Is it recommended to use some kind of sealant along with the rubber o-rings that come with the thermostat?
but where is the thermostat located?
I’m getting a P1624 code in my 2000 528i. It runs between blue and the halfway point- stuck thermostat? If so, does these instructions apply? And if the answer is yes, thank you in advance!