Explains and demonstrates how to replace the outside temperature sensor. Repair and replacement of the temperature sensor. This includes replacemet of the pi…
BMW Temperature Sensor Replacement Repair, Due To Temperature Sensor Reading -44 or 122 Degrees
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Degrees, Reading, repair, Replacement, Sensor, Temperature
- Categories: BMW
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crossed wires nothing…. installed new sensor still shows -40 degrees
whyyyyyy!!!??????
Please help i need my cat smogged but the emgine light is on the obd says
ambient temp sensor fault i noticef it was ripped off so i dpent 100 bucks
for a new one hokked it up amd it still wont work and syill a check engine
light pleasr amy suggestions?
+AskTheCarExperts I have the exact same issue. I have exposed wires in the
front bumper and when they are disconnected the temperature is -40 and when
i short them the temperature is +122. Would you have the part numbers for
the pieces i need to repair it? Thank so much!
Great video man. Hope you replace that fender well. Leaving it open can
really cause problems down the road. Speaking for experience on an older
car.
hi man my bmw has the bc button (on board computer ) but it do not do
nothing, i try setting the time and i still cant do it ,the radio still
doesn’t have the time.this bothers me because i am always looking at the
time and i have to pick up my phone to do it. please help!!!
Great video how many sensors are there?
Hey. My temperature reads -40F. I already found where the sensor should be
located. I bought a new sensor and plugged it in, it didn’t work. I bought
a new sensor again and a new plug with wires and again it still reads -40F.
I plugged the new wires directly onto the old wires higher up but nothing
worked . i found no damage along any part of the wires. This should have
been an easy fix but i’m stuck . Please help!!!
By the way my car is an E90 335i
Just bought my 2001 325ci and my check engine light went on and the outside
temp read -40. Thanks for the help!!!
Hi I have a 1994 BMW 318i, with 2 problems my out side temperature sensor
is broken and the Auxiliary fan does not work not sure if the two are
connected, I gave the fan direct current from the battery and it worked so
fan motor is good when I put the ac on high and hot all the internal
blowers come on but still the Auxiliary fan does not turn on and the air is
cold. it looks like all the fuses under the hood in the fuse box look good,
because my out side temperature sensor is broken. would that stop the fan
from working. also not sure if the fan is actually getting power. is there
a switch or sensor that would send power to the fan and if so were would I
find the switch? would like to test that also but I can not find it.
Last question should the Auxiliary fan come on if the car is staring to
over heat?
Hi! Great video, Just a question you might answer for me, do you remember
which colour coding the cables have?
and by the way ..good video ,i thought it was more complicated
Hi very helpful video I have just bought a new temp sensor and have plugged
it into plug on left and right hand side but nothing happens its on a 98
318i sedan any tips?
Hello Sylvia, Thank you for watching. I enjoyed making this video and was
hoping it would help quite a few people. The wiring for the temp sensor is
a direct input to the instrument cluster so it should not have effected the
BC button at all. Hopefully it has fixed itself by now but you could always
unplug the sensor and see if it has any effect. It would in essence go to
an open circuit. It sounds like it may be the BC button on the stalk switch
that may be failing. Hope this helps 🙂
The wires for the temp sensor on the left side are blue. Any idea what the
green wires on the right side are for? Same spot on the bundle, just on the
right side. 2001 325ci…
Enjoyed the video can you tell me where the sensor is for a 2006 325i I
need to replace my sensor
Thanks I needed those part numbers.
Hello Matt, It might take me a bit but I will definately be doing a starter
replacement. On a BMW the starter is a bit difficult to get to. With out a
lift it makes it even harder (hopefully one day I will have a lift at
home). Some people like to take the intake manifold out to access the
starter. The other way is from under the vehicle by lowering the exhaust.
Usually the locator pin for the starter is stuck and makes it difficult to
remove unless it is driven out with a punch.
🙂 Been busy lately
Hello Janny, It can prevent the AC from not working. When the wires are
open and the reading is -44 the compressor will be deactivated as the
system is preventing a freeze up due to outside temperature.
Thanks Jason 🙂 Thanks for watching. Glad my video helped!
I should mention that my AC system is working fine when it is turned on.
When the AC is on, there is cold air coming out so that’s one way I have
been doing to keep the air in the car in an acceptable temp range–when
it’s too hot, turn the AC on.
Hello Christopher, That is awesome! I am glad you found my video and it was
able to help you fix your temp sensor issue. Especially in the heat! 🙂
The short is usually near where the sensor was damaged. I usually unwrap
the electrical tape and hunt around the wiring harness. It would be
abnormal for the short to be near the instrument cluster. Also since this
is a low amperage circuit it should not short out the cluster unless it
gets a short to a 12 volt high amperage circuit.
That is cold! 🙂 -40 F is the Max that I have seen. My wife and I have been
watching Yukon men on Discovery. 🙂 Interesting life living in that area.
Is Fairbanks close to the North Pole? My children might want you to deliver
a message to Santa for them 😉
the panel is 63 bucks
🙂 Thanks AKJeeper 😉 I had looked up Fairbanks and saw the town “North
Pole” and had to share it with my family. The kids thought that was pretty
cool 🙂
hi, is it working for bmw e39 5 series too? because my fog lamp is not
working, but since i change my fog lamp bulb, the outside temprature show
that -40 degree celcius.
Glad the video helped 🙂 Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much man!! i had this same exact problem for MONTHS 🙂 ….
really clear demo man.
I just picked up the car yesterday and thought it was that I was out of
freon, so after taking it to Jiffy Lube to get the AC recharged, that
didn’t work (thank goodness they didn’t charge me). I freaked out, hoping
it wasn’t the AC compressor. So happy I found this video. The only
difference was that I needed to drive the car a bit for the sensor to work
and the temp to stabilize, and the AC blows ice cold. (Got a free AC
recharge) Thanks for putting this together!
excellent tutorial!
The wiring goes up to the instrument cluster. This is a hard wire signal
directly to the cluster. You must have another break in the wiring higher
up by the sound of it. Try giving the wiring a tug to see if you can pull
it out which can sometimes help to find the cut or broken wiring. Check
along behind the wheel well and cut open the sheathing on the harness and
work you way up the wiring until you find the damaged spot.