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BMW Water Pump: http://amzn.to/1i6lIuF A/C Belt: http://amzn.to/1kfGVWk Bmw Water Pump Pully: http://amzn.to/1aZYQLb BMW Coolant Expansion Tank Here: http://…
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You have the best videos, very informative plus you save people a lot of
money, I hope to be as mechanically inclined as you soon.
very useful :)
Very nice & clear. Mine started failing at 80k miles by making grinding
noise. It’s a mechanical pump for V8 (cheaper), but for V6 it’s an
electrical pump (expensive).
Well done Chris
I enjoyed this very well done video. It would be harder to do on my v12.
That A/C belt looks like a real struggle. Manufactures no longer try to
keep things simple to do. What do you think of those clip type rad hoses? I
like clean off and blow into the coolant tank (pinch off any overflow pipe)
with my mouth to do a basic pressure test before wasting coolant.
Your videos are awesome. The problem I had before with my and not working
and parking break malfunction was. I got my parking break rebuilt then
reprogrammed. Then also my dsc module needed to be replaced and
reprogrammed as well now car is great. Just so you know if that ever
happens.
Thanks again for your videos, they are such a great help.
The crank pulley hub has a short (3 mm) pin that must be in its hole
between two of the crank pulley bolts. The pin is short so it is not above
the surface so the washer ring lays flat. the pulley can be installed
without this pin in its hole very easily. This results in the pulley having
a bit of runout and the bolts may come loose later.
It is also a good idea to use either new pure coolant or a silicone paste
for cooling system parts to lubricate the o rings for the pipes. This makes
pushing the pump over the pipes easier and can prevent the o rings from
slipping out.