I began my rebuild when I did a compression test and noticed I had poor compression in cylinders 2-6 (about 142 psi, the bottom of the service limit). Cylinder 1 head 160 psi. A leakdown test showed leakage into each adjacent cylinder. Of course my engine also had the oil consumption problem (1 quart every 1000 miles) that every M54 engine has, which is caused by the oil rings which wear down prematurely (the M52TU used different oil rings which did not have this problem). There was also coolant loss, which I didn’t measure precisely.
To see all the videos in the #m54rebuild series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqJG4ZyPIF6OflXtgLWJOFdsiuc-UrZJX
To view all the specs and torques for BMW M54/M52TU engines: https://goo.gl/jLvcgR
The remover tool from Lisle is 36050 and it’s available here: http://amzn.to/2hUTqfH
You can get valve stem seal pliers here: http://amzn.to/2h49tGu
All you need to make my installation tool (which can also be used as a remover, btw) is some 1/4″ thick steel stock about 1″ wide by maybe 2 ft long (just in case you make a mistake cutting it).
You also need some basic metal working tools, such as a drill and drill bits, a cut off wheel, maybe some files to smooth down the burrs. Nothing major.
You can find the Milwaukee 2457-21 cordless ratchet that I used in my amazon store: http://astore.amazon.com/50skid-20?node=1&page=3
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
 DIY #m54rebuild 10')){kind=link}
Very clever trick.Congratulations.
You give me instructions for similar constructions.Εύγε.
Great video, keep up the good work. Thank you.
brother i just looked at all the other people that you have helped. now go get a patent license for that tool. it will run you about $5000 and you can get it registered immediately for the first year while the process is going on. pitch it to the affordable auto shops which most of your subscribers use. it looks like there are 118 customers right here, right now. i pray for your health and prosperity.
you have saved me thousands of dollars and hours of frustration with your videos, thank you so much brother. power on my friend.
Be SUPER CAREFUL when removing valve stem seals, and DO NOT use vise grips!! Mine were stuck on tight, and in the process of getting them off, I deformed almost all of the valve guides because they're a soft metal. Now most of my valves are binding in the guide, and I've got to get a new head, or have new guides installed.
That’s is not the correct tool to reinstall the keepers. You should be using assembly grease to keep the keepers together, plus the correct tool does compress the spring similar to the one you Jerry rigged.
Scary watching those vise grips on that valve stem seal. I work on safety relief valves which of course is a complete different animal but a bent stem is a bad day. And I imagine a galled stem is even worse on an engine. Good video though lots of great info.
if you take the cams off do you have to retime it?
Thanks Jason. I will definitely try this, been having some blue smoke and wanted to tear down the head gasket again.
Keepers? They are called collets
Hi mate did your car stoped smoking after replacement of valve steam seals?
Seems like to install you would have to really push that tool down a lot harder than you were. But we didn’t see what you tried off camera either. I’m trying to choose a tool myself.
Why do you need a rope in the cylinder to keep up the valve? If you just put the cylinder at TDC, the piston goes all the way to the top of the block and should prevent the valve from dropping.
For anyone curious , I made the 3 pieces using thickness 5.12 MM metal , the height of the piece that gets sandwiched between the other two pieces is 55.70 MM. Fyi
Great video. Well done with the tool you made.
Should use a valve cover on the valve ,that usually come with the new seal,before put the seal on,if not may damage the seal !