BMW Air filter, microfilter and spark plug service 1+3 Series How to DIY: BMTroubleU

BMW Air filter, microfilter and spark plug service 1+3 Series How to DIY: BMTroubleU

How to change the air filter, microfilter (pollen filter) and spark plugs on a 1 or 3 series 4 cylinder petrol engine with N46 engine. PLEASE NOTE I NO LONGE…

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Lee Caffell says:

Hi i have recently had the ignition coils on my bmw 320i e90 replaced but
still have a black soot residue left on rear bumper around exhaust pipe
after i drive, but no excesive smoke am i right in thinking it is a
fuel/air problem if so hows this rectified if not any other ideas most
welcome thanks lee.

seatobelto79 says:

Hi. How important is that small loose rubber/plastic thing underneath the
air filter box? I forgot to check that last time i changed the filter. In
case it’s gone, is it easy to get a new and what is it called?

Bassey Jr says:

I am planning on replacing the spark plugs on my ’08 E60 550i 71K Miles.
The video you’ve prepared is very thorough and quite helpful, so thank you
for that. However, as my vehicle is a different model are there any
significant differences that I should be aware of as I prepare to do this
work?

BMTroubleU says:

well for starters its a v8, so the plugs are going to be in a different
position and more difficult to get to, but other than that you should be
right mate. let me know how you go

BMTroubleU says:

ok, thats an engine fault warning light. it could be on for a number of
reasons. was it on before you serviced you car? if the light is cause by
lack of oil change its going to be bad, but i dont think thats it- more
likely to be a loose coil not properly pushed down or plugged in OR the
spark plugs are wrong or not torqued down properly.(especially if the
engine if spluttering, coughing etc before turning off). you dont have to
tighten them down heaps, the spec is on the boxes of the new ones

BMTroubleU says:

this is part of the CBS service light system. follow this video of mine to
reset the light, except instead of resetting the oil light cycle through to
the microfilter and reset that- youtube.com/watch?v=wKss3hv7IVk

BMTroubleU says:

sounds like ignition coils, which is a common problem but i cant tell
exactly from your colourful description. see this video on how to check
your coils- youtube.com/watch?v=JLDo7Jk78ac&feature=plcp you’ll also need
to know how to remove your microfilter housing, the link is in this video
right after i take out the microfilter

Pat Low says:

Quick question for you Lloyd, my brakes started squeaking recently. But my
brake sensors haven’t reported anything… (no lights coming up on my dash
or when I run a check). I had my brakes replaced 1 and a half years ago…
mostly inner city driving. Before i attempt to pop off my tyres to take a
look just wondering what should i be looking for? And should i try to
replace my brake sensors if my brakes are worn and the sensor isn’t
reporting it??

BMTroubleU says:

yes, the common term for misfire (which can be caused by defective coils)
is ‘running rough’. i dont see any misfire codes in the ones you have
provided though, and i wouldve expected to see them if it were a coil
issue. forget k-can, lvds and most ring faults as they are not involved at
all with engine operation. check your fan operation, just because thats
important for cooling, and i cant tell what ‘monitoring message is related
to… that may be a misfire fault

Jorge Colin says:

Question: I just changed the microfilter to my BMW 330i 3rd series. The
computer was indicating that the microfilter needed to be change. I changed
it the other day, and the computer didnt clear up on its own. As a right
now, the computer still indicating that the car needs a new microfilter. It
reads “Maintenance over due.” I check the controllers and every things
reads fine; oil, tire pressure, etc.. all is fine, but the microfilter.
Thanks for your videos, they are great.

gagopertubado says:

Hi! Thanks! Yes, I mean metal “thickness guage” (english is not my native
lang.).

BMTroubleU says:

its common for brake sensors to be the cause of a squealing noise without
the warning light coming on. the sensor will wear away until two contacts
become exposed and short on the disk. the car reads this and will give an
estimate on how long it thinks the brake will last based on your driving,
but right now the head of your sensor probably hasnt worn down far enough
yet. dont replace the sensor, its doing its job. its really a two fold
warning system- squealing followed by warning light.

Jorge Colin says:

Alright thanks. Your videos are really helpful. They save me some
money..Thanks a lot again

BMTroubleU says:

your first post says when you get to 3rd gear the engine goes smooth again
is that right?

dno funk says:

the light is yellow and looks like a half empty tank ? i didnt change the
oil could it be that my engine needs a top up or on oil change i can get
the car started but it cuts out after 45 secounds and when i gass it lacks
the powe???

DNO FUNK says:

I fixed it .it turns out I just needed a service after I did tye oil change
the engine warning light went , I feel kinda dumb about that but thanks for
showing me how to do it all, you saved me around 400 pound ??!!!

gagopertubado says:

Thank you. It´s hard to find technical stuff for n46 engine. I bought the
bentley book, but it ignores n46.

Charles Choi says:

Thanks a heap for the response. I ended up using MAF cleaner and after
reinstallation and one drive cycle, the CEL dissapeared. Later diagnostic
seemed to indicate excess air volume going through, so perhaps (1) there
was a slight contamination of the MAF, or (2) something wasn’t quite
sitting tight in the air filter housing. Either way, all’s good and I no
longer have strange drops in RPM at idle.

BMTroubleU says:

righto mate. ill expect your check in the mail soon ;p

BMTroubleU says:

yea mate, if youre referring to removing the microfilter housing click on
the comment at 8:50 and it’ll take you to my video on that. story is i
actually ran out of battery at that point, and seeing as it needs removing
so often for different things i figured i’d make a specific one just for
that and link to it to save time on each video.

___ ____ says:

Video started off great then big parts if the process cut out towards the
spark plug replacement section.

hossen mohamed tamreze says:

PLEASE SIR I NEED HELP ! i own a bmw e90 320 SI 2000cc i got a problem i
dont know if the park plug make this or others parts? morning when i start
the engine . the idlle not good its turn off for few time i need to iddle
more rpm for few minute and the engine o.k/ while i start driving under
1000rpm the engine seem to turn off. i need to iddle more than 1000rpm that
could go on the second speed also the same and the third speed its o.k when
i drive. please sportydriveshop@hotmail.co.uk

BMTroubleU says:

its often worthwhile spending $20 in an attempt to avoid paying $300 or
more, but honestly there werent many issues with 1 series mafs and they run
a ‘hot film’ maf instead of a ‘hot wire’ maf, so i cant say for sure- let
me know how you go

BMTroubleU says:

happy days mate, just watch out for those intake air leaks and drive safe.

Charles Choi says:

Great videos! I’ve recently had a CEL. I was told this related to an “Air
Flow System” error. MAF sensor was tested & was deemed fine. Lights reset
by mechanic, but returned a day later. Next read was exactly the same & the
advice was that the MAF would need replacement. Symptoms include slightly
rougher idle, and idle revs dipping momentarily below 500 rpm [otherwise
fine under WOT]. MAF seems easy to extract: any point in using MAF cleaner
to see if that works? E87 130i 2005 (83k kms)

Jorge Colin says:

Continue: It is a 2006 BMW 3rd Series. Like I said, the program that reads
whats wrong with the car, reads all fine but the microfilter. Which I
already changed, i dont know to clear that up from the car.

BMTroubleU says:

also thanks for the positive feedback.

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