How to clean, reseal and install Audi 3.0T Injectors. Flow test results. (S4/S5/A4/A6/A7/A8/Q7/SQ5)

How to clean, reseal and install Audi 3.0T Injectors. Flow test results. (S4/S5/A4/A6/A7/A8/Q7/SQ5)

With 115K miles should the injectors be replaced? These were the original parts which aren’t even available anymore. How to remove, test, clean, re-seal and potentially reuse your injectors. Below is a hack to get cheaper OEM parts!

Can anyone answer whether or not the ECU can adapt for the different flow rates of even the new injectors?! See video for more terrifying details 🙂

Parts
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Not the normal list for a reason. If you look up fuel injectors for the 3.0T TFSI engine the part look up will give you the new interchange part number of 06E906036AL. At the time of publishing this would cost you $305.07 each. If you use the original part number (that I found in my car) of 06E906036G you will currently pay $211.67 from the dealer; but get this; you will receive the new part 06E906036AL!

Now if none of that helps, rockauto currently have a third party injector with part number FJ1169 which is currently $155.89 each!

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Comments

@MariusTrifan-c9p says:

How do you remove the injector that was stuck in the cylinder head?

@LeeDeFontes says:

How screwed am I if I left a tiny marking on the metal, behind the injector seal?

@tb3780 says:

Great thorough video, thank you. I need one like this for C7.5 facelift… I'm deep into it and flying blind! lol

@AlexisRamos-ss5wj says:

How much does a service of those?

@stevek9670 says:

Great video thanks!

Searching for answers because I have a cylider 1 misfire after doing a heap of maintenance. I didn’t have this code or condition prior to taking supercharger off, cleaning valves and intake runners + much more. I broke some electrical connectors and replaced with Audi.

Codes are Cylinder 1 misfire &
Hide cylinder

I didn't have this problem before my "maintenance"

Any input would be appreciated

@salazar1104 says:

19:50 to my knowledge the ECU can only trim per bank not per cylinder.
Great video, just subscribed and i hope for more videos from You.

@carlosalejandro7315 says:

Great video.

@LAW-fv6ys says:

Excellent video. To answer your questions, yes the ecu can trim each cylinder via the pulse width of the injector, this is done using the crank angle acceleration and cross comparing the bank 1 and 2 pre cat lambda signals. There is no facility to learn or adapt these injectors like you would with a diesel injector in some cases.
I think for tfsi injectors the main thing is a good spray pattern and no drips. The flow if Close to each other is acceptable and won't cause any issues the ecu can't compensate for.
I have a 3.0t caka 2009 s4 and I've recently done intake walnut blasting, supercharger service, new coil and plugs, upper timing tensioners and upgraded to 034 motorsports stage 2+ (oversized crank pulley giving 3.29:1 supercharger pulley ratio). At the same time I removed injectors and cleaned them but didn't have the facilities at home to test them. Anyway I broke 1 off and bought a used injector (silly mistake). I've been driving the car since rebuilding it and have a misfire and code for cylinder 4 (used injector location), air fuel ratio imbalance is the code description. So I know that injector isnt good, its going to be dribbling as after 1000 miles I've got white smoke and strong fuel smell. So tomorrow the supercharger is coming off and new genuine injector going in. I've also got new supercharger intercooler cores as im worried my extra boost will make these leak coolant soon if not already leaking now alittle as coolant dropped alittle since rebuild.
FYI the best way to measure how well an injector and/or cylinder is performing is to monitor the knock values. I see cylinder 4 knock value is higher than all the others at idle. Long and short term Fuel trims adaptions are per bank so its not easy to pinpoint an injector with these value as the are averaged. However the ecu is clever and can spot the bad injector for you using the aforementioned crank angle acceleration. Basically bad cylinder won't accelerate as fast.
The difference in engine start up and running after walnut blasting was dramatic, I decided I needed to do this job because of rough cold start idle, if I drove off without allowing the car to warm up for 2 mins or so it would misfire and go into limp mode. Had to shut off and restart to clear the limp and let idle for longer. After walnut blasting the intake valves its smooth as silk except for the fact the cylinder 4 injector creates a tiny vibration and pop at exhaust. The check engine light hasn't come on because that code is a soft code and the car will ignore it largely unless it progresses to worsen the running.
I will let you know how it goes after I've done the job tomorrow weather permitting.

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