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New Power Steering Pump from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ib/1ASPP00168
This video shows you how to install a power steering pump on your 2004-2008 Acura TL. A failed power steering pump will make lots of noise, and you’ll have trouble steering!
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2004 Acura TL
2005 Acura TL
2006 Acura TL
2007 Acura TL
2008 Acura TL
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver http://1aau.to/os5/1AXAA00013
• 12mm Wrench http://1aau.to/ofo/1AXAA00010
• 12mm Socket http://1aau.to/os4/1AXAA00015
• 14mm Socket http://1aau.to/os4/1AXAA00015
• 17mm Socket http://1aau.to/os4/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket http://1aau.to/oiu/1AXAA00043
• Pliers
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar http://1aau.to/obx/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet http://1aau.to/ouA/1AXAA00016
• Drill
• Block of Wood
• Cloth Rags http://1aau.to/ocX/1AXSS00035
• Power Steering Fluid
• Floor Jack http://1aau.to/ofN/1AXAA00068
• Pick http://1aau.to/odN/1AXAA00037
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Acura TL 2004-2008 3rd Generation: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJVpHWuCEUX-08dT5zaGtO0VHIewSQxn8
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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I just purchased a 2006 Acura TL… it needs a decent amount of work but for 1500$ it came with a strong motor and auto transmissions. The original owner put in some generic power steering fluid so it makes noises. Also he put 20in rims on it and "tried" to modify the front fenders. Needless to say it needs two new fenders, new side markers, power steering flush (possibly a new P/S pump), oil change, new driver/passenger door panels, new rims and tires (which I got but the current lugs are wayyyy to tight, a wheel stud (probably from being over tightened), new dashboard, front driver and passenger seats, new fog light on driver side, and a new rear speaker deck for the 6.5's and 8in free air sub. Also will need an upgraded amp for tweeters, door speakers, and rear deck speakers. Also needs an alignment real bad and brakes and rotors. But other than that the car runs amazingly and the transmission shifts smoothly. Just finding a dashboard seems to be the hardest to find. But watching videos like this gives me hope. Thank u so much!!
Good video, but there are few unnecessary steps here. I just did this job and here are some tips.
1. There is no need to remove the side engine mount and deal with lifting the engine. Pump can be removed without it, you can access the bolt holding the PS to the block which is closest to the front of the car with a flex head box wrench and break it loose and then take it out.
2. Remove the drive belt as video shows, then remove the high pressure PS hose and put it in the rubber glove or plastic bag to keep the fluid from leaking ( it will be minor).
3. Remove the PS pump mounting bolts and slowly lift the PS pump out with the low pressure PS hose still attached. While holding the pump, disconnect the low pressure PS hose with it being tilted up. This way there is almost no fluid loss. Add the cap or glove to the low pressure PS hose.
4. Not shown in the video, but you should replace the two o-rings on the PS hoses. Black one on the high pressure one, and red one on the low pressure one.
5. With old PS pump out, remove the pulley, mount it on the new pump.
6. Reassemble everything.
I'm not a mechanic and I have limited skills, but I'm going to offer a suggestion. ALWAYS replace the O-rings! Why do all that work and have it possibly fail because you cheaped out and didn't replace a 50 cent O-ring. Especially looking at the conditions of the motor, it looks like it has some miles on it. O-rings flatten out and become brittle over time and it might not always be apparent. Also, if you're putting in a new pump, wouldn't you flush and empty the system before installing the new pump? That way, you can refill the system with fresh fluid and not run contaminated fluid through the new pump.
Nice work !
did he really add motor oil at 17:47 or was that just for transferring?