To learn more about auto electrical and electronics systems troubleshooting go to my website at www.scannerdanner.com The primary focus of this video is bias…
To learn more about auto electrical and electronics systems troubleshooting go to my website at www.scannerdanner.com The primary focus of this video is bias…
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YOU CAN DO THIS IN 5 SECONDS
YOU GOT A PUMP CODE?
JUST MEASURE THE RESISTANCE OF THE PUMP. !!!!!!!!!
EASY SIMPLE FAST
great video
Seems like a lot of unecessary testing. Just remove the relay, like the
manual tells you to do, jump the relay socket to show no pump activity. To
confirm, just plug the pump directly to the battery. When there is no
activity,you know you need a motor. We all know that it is most likely a
relay or motor.
Very unlikely to be wiring problems unless the car was in an accident.
I keep watching most of your videos and I’d learn a lot. thanks thanks
Thank u ScannerDanner 4 ur help. I Tried to do this test with my Acura 2.2
Cl 1997, but it showed me a ABS trouble code 1-1-1, Every blink takes like
4 secons in between, So, What Code is That?…n how I Can Fix it..? Thanks
for ur help…
Theory of operation and curciut design are beginning to make sense of the
engineering madness that flow charts have caused in my career over the
years. I find that drilling these fundamental principles you are providing
through daily viewing is making my work fun.its like solving a puzzle. The
ckt designs are now interesting and making sense. O scoping is an
unbelievable advantage over being an average technician. Maybe an o scope
on that abs motor. Thanks for your dedication its helping so many families.
That is some awesome info there, thanks Paul.
anywhere on the flowchart they mention the existence of this bias voltage?
. excellent video.
scanner danner hey i have a 02 acura tl with a 98-1 code i replaced the abs
module still code presist what else can i do
Thank you for an excellent wire tracing video. One thing I noticed at 13:54.
The part you pointed to on the ABS modulator unit was the accumulator and
not the motor. The motor is bolted to the bottom of the hydraulic side of
the modulator. It is mounted in a horizontal position. The accumulator is
the brass colored steel cylindrical device mounted in a vertical position.
I recently the “O” rings that seal both units. I also removed, cleaned
and re-torqued six allen headed plugs described in Honda Service Bulletin
94-029. I also replaced the auxiliary brake fluid reservoir located on the
ABS modulator unit. I need to re-install the ABS modulator unit and bleed
the brakes. I hope the brake fluid leakage will be solved. Time will tell.
I did not post this to be nit picking. I only posted this for
clarification.
Thank you again for your excellent video explaining wiring issues with the
ABS unit and the proper methods to troubleshoot and resolve the issue(s)
uncovered during the troubleshooting procedure.
do you have a video on abs systems on pontiac grand ams? because they have
major issues with abs.
I really wish I could have shown the bias voltage drop to 0 when we tapped
on the motor. It was really cool. It would have been a good light bulb
moment to show.
Theory on Bias line Fuse, what is the rating? What is the rating of the
Pump Motor Fuse prior to the relay load contact? If the pump is running at
12 volts or more at charging voltages and the Bias line shorts to ground,
since that wire is so long back to the middle of the car, the Bias fuse
(MCK) will blow, the ABS ECM will see zero volts on the Input (Bias) pin
when the pump is commanded on so it should throw a code but for what
reason, the same? Pump Motor Circuit? 1-2 code. Same TS procedure
What thew me a curve was the fuse in the voltage sense circuit. When I
first saw that I thought that circuit was a 2nd way to energize the ABS
motor. I haven’t seen too many sense circuits with a fuse. Good video!
When you see something labeled CK, 9 times out of 10, it’s going to stand
for ‘check’ So you’ve got a Motor Check circuit.
funniest comment I have read in a while. Thanks!
Great video
Ahh, now that makes sense. Thank you! Just checked. The pump motor circuit
fuse is 40 amps and the sense circuit is 10. Your theory still is
completely valid in my opinion.
great vid paul i think probably reason for bias line fuse is…….if bias
line shorted then fuse pops but pump motor will still get power, whereas if
no bias fuse pump relay fuse would pop and would lose feed to motor, hope
that makes sense. Joe
awesome video ScannerDanner the Ebook is absolutely the best resource I
could have asked for.
27:33 looks like you sketched some crazy comic book hero! Omega Man!
haha I am seriously laughing out loud
Thank you John. You shouldn’t have to wait for it, access to the ebook is
immediate after your purchase. If you missed the link it is no big deal,I
can set it up for you. Send me a pm.
Did the customer finally get a new pump? They are pricey I believe
TEST, open the pump motor circuit. Test 10.8 volts on Bias pin, start car
and as internal ABS ECM voltage goes up from 12 (in your theory) to 14, see
if the 10.8 goes up 2 volts also (approx) to see if it follows battery
charge voltage or if it stays regulated at 10.8 at the pin with engine
running and charging the battery. I would also like to see the initial
current ramp, if measurable, on a bias circuit with good motor brush
contact to see if the CEMF will ring on the waveform, need bias amps
Thank you! 1) I did initially think I had a short, but if it was a short to
power, why wasn’t the motor running? (it should have been) Also it dropped
to 0v through my test light. This forced me to study the diagram again and
that’s when I noticed that signal line (I didn’t pay attention to it
initially). I immediately though bias voltage after that. So many different
circuits use it. So experience was a factor too. 2) Reverse engineering is
fun, but I definitely have so much more to learn 🙂
Ahhh gotta love the smack the motor trick…I love the awe on customers
faces when solving an overheating problem with non working fans…awesome
video Dan.