1998 Acura Integra with a bad starter. A hammer was used to tap the starter and get the car started and running. This is not the only issue with the car.
1998 Acura Integra with a bad starter. A hammer was used to tap the starter and get the car started and running. This is not the only issue with the car.
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The name of the plunger and copper caps are called Crank N Charge off ebay.
The hardest part is taking out the Starter from the car. The rebuild is
quick and easy. My email is That Car 4 Sale @ gmail . Com dont be silly no
email has blank spaces, Put it all together and hit me up for questions or
comments people. Enjoy life it is what you make it!
-NAAS
My car wont make that cranking noise at all its just silent i knowwww its
not the baterry or terminals cause thats new and ive tried jumping the car,
i reallly need help its my only way to work, its a 94 integra db8 all
electronics in the car works but it wont turnover at all no clicking
nothing any1 have advice or an idea of what it could be? Thanks
I rebuilt my starter for less than $14. 00. I bought the kit from Crank n
Charge off of ebay and received it in less than 2 days. The kit came with a
plunger and two copper connectors. It is very easy to do. The hardest part
was getting to the bolts of the starter.
I did get my starter to work after hitting it with a hammer but my
automatic start did not work until I rebuilt the starter. It is worth
trying to fix it yourself for under $14.00 than a rebuilt one for $165.00
at a autoparts store.
Sorry for the late reply guys!… I hope this helped and I wasn’t too late!
That great you fix your, in your case it for sure it’s the starter. What
is the item call? So I can be prepare.
For now after I replace my O2 sensor it have not given me any problem even
I drove only 25 mins round trip per day for 3 months now. I guess I have
to wait unit winter come to see if it something to do with cold weather
(brand new battery 5.5 months ago).
I hit the starter with a hammer. As of right now it hasn’t given any
issues. The starter being stuck in that state drained my battery to the
point I had to jump it everytime I wanted to start the car. The more I
drove the car the longer the charge would hold. I have not had to jump the
car in weeks, but I currently have other issues that I need to fix.
The check engine light had came on during that period which read a few
issues; a couple were about the electric system. The alternator was tested
and had 14 volts, starter was crap which I already knew after the hammer
test and my battery read 11 volts at the time. Anyways after it being able
to hold a charge I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 10
seconds put it back and 50+ miles later no check engine light.
I wish myself the best when I go get a new inspection soon.
I did have a check engine light, according to Autozone it was about voltage
and the IAT sensor. As for knowing codes sorry I didn’t have those numbers.
How is your car doing now?
The sounds you hear in this video is clanking of keys, the Starter and
Diamond Plate floor mats being hit. There is no carpet in the car and the
battery may need to be replaced, because a boost is also needed to start
the car, along with tapping the Starter with a hammer.
I can post more videos in the near future, if there are any questions or
request feel free to comment.
Good Luck to those whom came across this video looking for a solution to a
problem.
Hey me too, I got a high voltage code on rear sensor; 1.25V. My converter
replaced about 6months ago (Bosal, Autozone) and put original old sensor
back in. One thing I am realized was every time the car don’t start, check
engine light was on with this code. I will keep deleting this code and see
if no start problem is back when the check engine light is not on. I am
not sure what ECU do to the car when this high voltage code is on;
hopefully it is not the reason causing the car not to start.
If I am not wrong normally high voltage mean that sensor pickup high level
of oxygen which not burn mixing with gas in engine and passed thru
converter. Its also mean exhaust leak and more oxygen from outside got in.
I just order the universal sensor and plan to replace it within couple
weeks. If the code come back the next thing is to make an adapter and
install on converter to reduce the oxygen which sensor received, otherwise
starter need to replace.
Is your car currently have check engine light? and what is code number?
Last time when my 99 integra not start I check the battery with volt meter
and get about 12.6 V and when turn the key I get 11.5 V. It seem that
battery not drain on my because when I turn my head light on it stay lit.
But if I have another car to jump, car will start right up. It seem that
starter or something need more power.
Was it doing this every time you start the car? I have the same problem
sound just like your but only when its cold outside. I have brand new
battery put in 3weeks ago and still having the same problem. I just want
to make sure before I buy new starter.