The vehicle in this video is a 1990 C1500 Sport with a 5.7L engine. I believe these mounts were used in a lot of GM vehicles besides just this truck. If you have this type of engine mount, this video will walk you through how to replace them.
The part used in this video: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7731116?utm_source=etcg&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=motormounts&utm_content=2019-05
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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Yeah basically the same as changing these on a Chevy S10 the nuts for the bolts are in the inside of the frame and man is that a pain in ass had to remove the hole lower control arm and coil spring on my 85 s10 to change mine ha gezz what a job
That's exactly how I did it 13 years ago with my truck. Same type of wrench.
I put the energy suspension poly mounts in my square body suburban. They fit inside the clam shell snug, no play at all. Its been 11 years and they are still tight.
Use a 1/4 9/16 or ect socket attached to a swivel works wonders. Also have used a wobble extention in series. Tape can help the bolt / nut stay in and even taping the swivel can limit it's movement. I never had to much an issue doing this method.
Just realized this problem yesterday when i went to replace mine! I might try to work a breaker bar in there before shelling out for one of those wrenches though
Just went through all this last year on my 1995 Sierra, and it SUCKED. But my mounts were way worse than yours, so it had to be done. I ended up using a serpentine belt tool with a crow's foot on the end to hold the nuts while turning the bolts from the top. And of course I dropped a couple of nuts somewhere in the frame… UGH
I have an AC question I replaced the Schrader valve did everything proper with the gauges and all that Vac the system now my AC system won’t except more than 2 ounces and I am overcharged on the gauge and won’t draw anymore any more r134 a in Compressor is engaging and disengaging wtf no cold air
The reason those mounts are designed that way and why they are such a pita to change is back in '71 GM was forced to recall 6.7 million vehicles due to a rash of broken motor mounts that stretched way back into the 60's. The mounts would separate letting the engine raise up jamming the throttle and in many cases pulling the vacuum brake hose loose killing the power brakes and creating a major safety hazard. As result of the costly recall engineers were told to redesign it and make it bulletproof. This over designed mount is the result, this redesign is overkill but no matter how worn, cracked or loose it may get it can never separate and let the engine come up off the frame and become a safety hazard. The mount is extremely well engineered from a function standpoint, but the downside is its a real pita to change in a complete car. I had a '66 Impala that had the problem, they even tried issueing what they called "safety mounts" that were the same original design but with metal tabs that stopped torque from pulling the mounts loose, but eventually the torque just bent the tabs and you again had a stock mount. These mounts are indeed impossible to pull loose from the frame if installed correctly with good hardware. Ah the good old days. Heres a link to the NYT story on it. >
https://www.nytimes.com/1971/12/05/archives/67-million-cars-face-gm-recall-but-company-denies-safety-defect-in.html
FYI: This process is different if using "MOST" brands of aftermarket factory replacement engine mounts. Most of them are already mounted in that metal sleeve. It's mainly with polyurethane mounts that you will have to drill out the original mounts to reuse the metal.
I would have sworn I've bought the whole assembly all together already and never drilled them out but they were just direct replacements and not polyurethane mounts so nice job
There should be a saint named after Unibits.
ERIC I need your help. 1980 f 350 6.6. Sunday i drove it and it ran like normal. Monday morning I go to start it and it won't start. Would occasionally backfire but that's it. Has basically the entire ignition system replaced as I fix it up. New coil and ignition module once it wouldn't start. Even has a new ignition switch. Still wont start but I know its getting fuel just no spark. Any suggestions?
Like the new thumbnail design
Thank you so much
So I feel like this video should also be tagged on why mechanics hate engineers. Lol it seriously looked like they thought no one would ever change them. Good video!
Never envied the bs that mechanics gotta go though. Labor of love bro. Nice shot of the fairmont
I used a distributor wrench that I heated and bent just a little bit to get the angle on when doing them on my 71 Camaro.
I love when Brian comments hahaha
Wow I thought my pre-assembled mounts were difficult!
Yeah there a pain! Same way on my s10 but I just cut a little hole in the frame and got my wrench on there and called it a day lol