Genuine OEM expansion valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&keywords=92200-6n205&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=9bd22a603ab81a283a6c89d60d5a88fb
Genuine OEM o-rings:
92471-N8210: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=9&pub=5575132837&toolid=10001&campid=5338247540&customid=&icep_uq=92471-N8210&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=6000&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
92472-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&keywords=92472-N8210&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=58bcca565f026c4129ecfe114506037c
92473-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F66V3EU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00F66V3EU&linkId=f5823d798a86e2ea578f35ee7d0e9450
92474-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&keywords=92474-N8210&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=5c01cf5777c35804d3477610133e9b76
I’m still working on finishing this one, but since some of you asked, here is a raw draft. It should give you a good idea of how it’s done.
The orings you put in at the 5:30 mark.. Did you take some old ones out or you're just putting those in there for extra seal?
Best detailed steps I've seen in a DIY video. Would be a huge plus to include wrench/socket sizes and torx bit needed to remove Expansion valve bolts.
You can buy replacement OEM expansion valve here: http://amzn.to/2FRT1X2
Genuine OEM o-rings – 92471-N8210: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=9&pub=5575132837&toolid=10001&campid=5338247540&customid=&icep_uq=92471-N8210&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=6000&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
92472-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&keywords=92472-N8210&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=58bcca565f026c4129ecfe114506037c
92473-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F66V3EU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00F66V3EU&linkId=f5823d798a86e2ea578f35ee7d0e9450
92474-N8210: https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ytb055-20&keywords=92474-N8210&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=5c01cf5777c35804d3477610133e9b76
(these are Amazon and eBay affiliate links)
It looks like you had an after market TXV valve because the oring was green. My stock ones are black. Can you provide the Nissan part #'s for the Orings and the TXV valve? Thanks.
WHY ONLY NEED TO REMOVE THE ENGINE COVER
Did replacing all three make your car blow cold air
you need air tools
Hey bud since you have more experience than me in these Altimas I have a 2011 Altima 2.5 with 130 K miles and after I changed the pulley and clutch plate it started leaking oil from the center from behind a pulley it was still blowing cold air do I really need to change condenser expansion valve dryer all that? It happened 2 days ago..Or can I just change the compressor?
Dang, that's exactly where I did not want it to be located