Mazda 626 – Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

Mazda 626 –  Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

How to replace the fuel pressure regulator and run a quick fuel pressure test. This replacement cost me $12 from a junkyard. A brand new regulator is over $170 from a dealership and $80 from…

6
Like
Save


Comments

DJDevon3 says:

Uploading a new video from today of the fuel pump pressure and wiring test.
Uploading as I type this actually. I’m pretty sure it is bleeding back into
the tank. Still won’t know exactly what is wrong with the pump itself until
the fuel tank is dropped and visually inspected.

DJDevon3 says:

It’s built into the pump on our cars? Well isn’t that just craptastic. :*(

DJDevon3 says:

Amigo, I recommend you do a fuel pressure test first.

spelunkerd says:

When I saw your fuel pressure sag quickly I wondered if the check valve at
the gas tank was faulty, allowing fuel to flow backward into the tank. I
don’t know anything about Mazda but many cars have a check valve to make
starting easier. The check valve keeps the line primed after shutoff, so
that starting the next morning is easier.

TheTarrMan says:

Looks like the one-way valve that’s built into the pump itself. Like what
spelunkerd and HaroRider03088 said. To replace, to replace the entire pump.

DJDevon3 says:

According to my factory manual no, it should hold pressure for quite a long
time. I believe a couple hours is normal but it should hold for at least 5
minutes. As you can see mine wasn’t even holding for 5 seconds let alone 5
minutes. Something is definitely wrong with the fuel pressure. Using the
process of elimination I’ve traced the issue back to the fuel tank. No idea
if it’s a check valve or the fuel pump right now but definitely on the fuel
pump side of things.

BREINNER PAREDES says:

amigo tengo un problema con mi carro si dejo cargar la bomba de gasolina
con el switch abireto cuando enciendo el carro prende y luego se apaga
en-cambio cuando no la dejo cargar prende bien y no se apaga. ¿se acaso
esta válvula que es mal?

Zoobie Snot says:

I’m wagering that removing the fuel pump is a nightmare process. If you’re
lucky, it can be done under the rear bench seat…

DJDevon3 says:

Nope, gotta drop the tank to replace the pump but not necessarily for an
inspection. Still have to do some more testing first but it’s certainly
looking like it’s headed in that direction.

HaroRider03088 says:

I am thinking the exact same thing. He would need to pinch off a line
further down the system to find out. It goes hand and hand with the hard
start issue he is having..

TheTarrMan says:

Yea, it is. The motor part is still probably good but the check valve
probably failed. Also the tolerances in the pumping mechanism probably
widen witch would explain your low fuel pressure when you were doing the
max psi test. Unfortunately it’s all built into one housing. (about $100 at
any auto-parts store)

CHIBA280CRV says:

Hello check the fuel pump, priming might seem good,but under load she is
weak! Maybe bleeding back into the tank? Cool

spelunkerd says:

On most motorcycles the petcock is vacuum actuated, which is a neat way to
turn off fuel if the engine dies or during an accident. It really helps
when you are removing the gas tank since you can disconnect the fuel lines
without getting gasoline over everything. I see your pressure reg is vacuum
actuated as well — if vacuum shuts off, does the pressure reg cut off fuel?

Write a comment