This video shows how I fixed a problem with my Volvo S80 3.2 cooling fan module and fan assembly. I describe the symptoms, diagnosis process, dealing with an auto repair shop, and using a simple hack to make the replacement a lot easier. This video is ideal for DIY viewers and professionals. My car is a 2011 Volvo, but this repair can be made on many other Volvo models (S40, S60, C30, C70, XC70, XC90) and years (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, etc.).
The main problem with the car was that the fan would not turn off. The fan would continue to run after the engine was turned off. This is a common problem with some Volvos as they age.
Let me know what you think. I hope this video helps.
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Where is that fix?
I'm an electrical engineer and can help all understand why, probably, that first control unit failed and everything was great after you replaced the entire fan assembly (with 2 new fan motors.) Electrical motors have wound copper wires to make the magnetic fields which cause fan rotation. Those wires have coating, like insulating paint. Over the years, the heat and weather can wear down and corrode that varnish coating so some wires of the windings short together, which is bad. More amperage — more current — occurs but the motor still runs. Eventually the additional amperage exceeds the ability of the electronics (solid state or relay?) inside that "control module" so the module fails. In your first fix at the shop, they installed a new module but likely did not check the amperage going through your fan motors. Since the motors were bad (too much current draw) they soon destroyed your first new control module too, just like the current eventually destroyed the original. When you bought new fans (with a new control module) everything was back within specifications and design like new — the fans pulled the appropriate amount of amperage, which the new module could handle fine. Now you know the WHYs of the failures you saw. Great video!
This is not a defect of the fans. The motors are good. The bad circuit controller has been replaced with another bad, non-original component.
Absolutely no replacement of the entire motor unit is required.
In your case, you simply purchased a better quality set of fans with another, better controller. This is reason why this works.
In my case I found a good quality circuit and now it works fine. The internal structure of the controller is of high quality and has full PWM communication, in this case we will not receive the error message:
"P0483(86) [0x048386] Engine coolant blower motor, rationality check – malfunction"
Model of unit: C182-A003-Silver.
Numbers of part:
7T43-8C609-BA 7T438C609BA MR497751 1355A053 AJ51-15-15YA AJY2-15-SC0 7T438C609BA 7G919A819AA FO89004DW 7G91-9A819-AA, 940004107 940 004101 940004106 940004105
Land Rover Freelander II 07-15
Range Rover Evoque 11-15
Volvo S60/V60 S80 V70 XC60 XC70
Ford Mondeo IV 07-14
Ford Galaxy III 06-15
Ford S MAX 06-15
You should remove intake manifold and then get into fan
I have the same car and just replaced my fan in about 30 minutes. I removed the tabs that were blocked by hoses by using a reciprocating saw and it popped out easily.
You def have to wiggle it and move some hoses but it's easy
Installing it was not too bad. The only thing I had to move was the large radiator hose on the passenger side and the fan dropped in easily. A little bending was necessary but it was about a 3/10 on the difficulty scale.
This video is appreciated but way over the top.
I got a cx60 2011 and am thinking the fan assembly is hoped
I apperiacte the effort you put into this video, Thank you.
Do these as a pair at the dealership. And no coolant hose removal needed. Just a lot of wiggling and bending to get the assembly out and in.
Same fan module and control unit for Land Rover Freelander II 2007-
I'll share my same scenario with my XC90. Unlike the S80, the XC90 has a temperature meter at the dash. This problem happened when my temperature sensor failed, rendering no temperature reading to the ECU. The ECU is smart to detect this failure, and to prevent overheating due to "no temperature signal", would run the fan aggressively and continue to run it for like 3-5 minutes after the engine is stopped.
11:19. I just read in VIDA that if you push the bottom of the fan toward the rear of the car it will clear all obstructions. Never tried this but may help someone else if they need to remove the fan.
I really appreciate your great story telling method! Im in a time emergency so I’m at a specialized dealership that does the work much cheaper. But now I know for the future! Thanks
Ok. This is the best explanation I’ve ever seen for a technical problem on a car. I am planning to buy a S80 T6, so I think I may need this in the future.
I almost don’t even care if this fixes my issue. I’m making the swap anyway. What an on point video! 5 ⭐️’s
Great showmanship, easily understood by me
Very helpful, Thanks. Just ordered the control unit, hoping that will fix my situation and I don't have to replace the whole fan unit.
Ya maybe probaly could have used a cable tie or two
Nice testing procedure
Its not gouging. They can charge whatever they want. Its their labor and tools and shop
Brilliant, but instead of modifying the lower bracket you can actually remove the tranny cooler unit by removing one screw then pull the unit out, wish I could attach a picture on the app!! Good job!
Unbolt the oil cooler and remove the two triangular blocks that support the top of the radiator. The is no need to cut mounting tads.
I thought this was a software issue, fixed by a recall?
Thank you for your video details in replacing fan module,saves$$$$$❤
Great work mr!
Sometimes the bush fixes is the best fixes.
I cant see any sensible reason to pay one hundred million moneys to a workshop which makes a simple repair sound almost impossible, unless we are willing to drain every last penny we can pick together.
Unless of course its a warranty job, then the workshop can use what ever hours they feel suit. I really dont care. For maximum fun I usually reminds them of the copious amount of work required for the almost impossible repair!
Great Hi-Tech simulation!
Dum question but why did you decide to go with the fan over the auxillery fan module unit thingy??
How often was this issue after you fix it first time