Buy Now!
New Control Arm with Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ia/1ASLF00788
This video shows you how to install a lower control arm with ball joint on your 2005-2009 Subaru Outback. Control arms are a crucial part of the suspension system of your vehicle. They not only carry the load of the vehicle to the wheel, but they typically also maintain its alignment. Control arms are typically large and strong, so you may be surprised it needs replacing. They contain rubber bushings for smoother rides at the cost of eventual wear, or integrated ball joints that require replacing the entire arm when they wear.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2005 Subaru Outback
2006 Subaru Outback
2007 Subaru Outback
2008 Subaru Outback
2009 Subaru Outback
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar http://1aau.to/ogX/1AXAA00020
• 17mm Wrench http://1aau.to/ohx/1AXAA00010
• 15mm Socket http://1aau.to/oyX/1AXAA00015
• 17mm Socket http://1aau.to/oyX/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket http://1aau.to/ok2/1AXAA00043
• 32mm Socket http://1aau.to/oQ/1AAST00003
• Locking Pliers http://1aau.to/obu/1AXAA00139
• Metal Cutters
• Torque Wrench http://1aau.to/op6/1AXAA00044
• 9/16 Inch Wrench
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Chisel http://1aau.to/obu/1AXAA00055
• Rubber Mallet http://1aau.to/oaw/1AXAA00413
Subscribe: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWCdsftsTqYMO7cA_5Sc-yA?sub_confirmation=1
Check out our playlist:
Subaru Outback 2005-2009 3rd Generation: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJVpHWuCEUX-P9Kkvabxp2JJpDl1VXJ40
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
){kind=link}
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto http://1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
impressed how well this is done. Thank you, for your mastery.
Apparently castle nut on arm doesn't have a torque spec…and torquing arm on a lift is acceptable – ride height torquing is for losers
Car should have been on the ground when tightening and when you torque the bushing bolts. As someone stated earlier. This hurt to watch.
That ended very abruptly…
Used this guide because it was the first time I've worked on a 4th gen B chassis.
The 32mm axle nut doesn't need to be touched. The sway bar end link nut is actually 14mm. 15mm nut or bolt head are very rare on most Japanese cars.
Please redo this video with someone who knows what they're doing because this person does not know what they're doing. She took the axle nut off for ZERO reason, put a new ball joint in but doesn't fully seat it & instead hammers a bolt through to damage it into place. She says she didn't want to hammer down on the control arm even though she does anyway plus puts on a new control arm assembly so it won't matter if you damaged a part you're not going to use plus I've hammed down on like 100 control arm while NEVER damaging them.
Warning, if you live in a state with snow and salt you are going to snap the pinch bolt and that ball joint will be rust welded its going to be alot of work to get it out. This video is very misleading to get you to buy parts from them.
does the axel center nut HAVE to come out?
Good educational video thank you
What did u use pb blaster?
Excellent video
Nice video. Same person from 1A Auto?
Was the axel nut really supposed to be removed?
If you had to heat the lower ball joint pinch bolt, how would you do that without melting either the axle boot right above it or the ball joint below it?