How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 05-09 Subaru Outback

How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 05-09 Subaru Outback

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In this video, 1A Auto shows you how to remove, replace, and install a sway bar end link. This video is applicable to the 05, 06, 07, 08, 09 Subaru Outback

🔧 List of tools used:
• 14mm Wrench
• 18mm Wrench
• 15mm Socket
• 19mm Socket
• Ratchet
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands

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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.



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Jeff Archer says:

The secret is to preloosen the pivots. You'd swear they're solid but I put a socket on it and broke it loose wiggling back and forth careful not to mar the threads.
Then I lined up the shaft angle with the mount holes and so easy bam!
Never would have worked with the angle it came with.

Whuntmore says:

2008 Subaru Legacy base model. Factory links, and 'Wrench spot' was just like a rounded washer. sawzall to cut just ahead of rounded 'wrench spot' then a rotary file enough to knock the stud out.

Burl Neal says:

Ok, dumb question. Looking to replace these links (front and rear) on my grandson's Subaru. Are there links on both ends of the front swaybar or just one on the driver side?

topshelfproducts says:

As stated in the comments the links being removed are aftermarket, and the factory links don't have a place for a wrench to hold the ball in place. However you can use a 5mm allen wrench in the factory bolt to hold it from spinning while removing the nut.

Ghost Rider says:

After replacing these links Is there any reason why? The quacking would continue under my car. Even louder? I did Korg to 34 foot pounds. And you're working on the same car here as mine except mine. Is it 07?

Clem Lowes says:

Dealership quoted me nearly $400 to do this job. I just got it done for half that at reputable garage near me.

Todd Williams says:

Those are Moog links he was replacing, & they didn’t look like they had been on there all that long. If you live in the rust belt & the OEM links have been on there for 100,000 + mi, they’re not nearly that easy to get off. I had to pop the metal caps off and grip the ball with vice grips as there is no nut on the OEM. There is a hex slot, but popping the caps is easier & faster. BTW, while I was under there I also replaced the sway bar bushings. It’s cheap & easy, so you may as well do it while you’re under there. 1A Auto, you’re welcome for the add-on suggestion :).

Sheila Levine says:

driver's side link was separated at one of the ball joints. after inserting the replacement into the lower hole on the wishbone, the upper bolt was about 1-1.5 inches below the hole in the sway bar. i had to put a scissor jack under the wishbone and jjack it up, so the upper bolt would go into the sway bar hole. would that situation have been caused by a bent sway bar?

Emilis Mitkus says:

Easy to do without lifting the car and without removing a tyre. 😉

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