Car Fix DIY Videos

#snowplows #snowplow #actuators #actuator #kyb

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A neighbor asked us to take a look at his electric hydraulic pump actuator that came off his snowplow. The motor had seized up and wouldn’t articulate the blade left or right. Being that Jeff has gained a reputation in the neighborhood for his knowledge and wicked skills, he told the neighbor he’d take a look at it not knowing if he could fix it. Having a snowplow is a must up in the Colorado mountains. And incidentally, we could not find any instructions or a manual on the internet.

The PROBLEM: Jeff discovered a bad O-ring, metal shavings in the pump, a clogged hole or two, a burr on a metal plate, and roughened surface on the flat portions of the gears .

PLEASE NOTE: On the pump, the three hex/allen bolts that hold the metal plate securely were originally found torqued down tight. Jeff DID TIGHTENED the bolts once again.

TIP: The owner told Jeff he couldn’t pull the motor out of the pump.
THE HOW-TO: To pull the motor shaft straight out of the pump, Jeff used a vice to hold the non-piston end and used two very large flathead screwdrivers at opposite positions to slowly winch up the motor shaft out of the pump.

This DIY at home repair on an electrical hydraulic cylinder will save you money. For the cost of a new O-Ring, an hour or two of your time, and a little elbow grease you’ll have a newly working cylinder.

This system is called the Mini-Motion Package (MMP4) from KYB Americas Corp., Addison, Ill.

0:04 – Remove the motor. 4 bolts.
0:23 – Battery for Testing purposes.
0:34 – Gear housing with plate: showing where motor shaft inserts.
0:47 – Showing both gears on the pump that move oil in the pump.
0:53 – Flathead screwdriver to spin gears and checking for free play during rotation.
1:08 – Positioning the metal plate over the gears. (Burr was found on the underside).
1:23 – Clearing all orifices of any potential shavings. (Air blown into holes too).
1:46 – A good image of the pump housing with gears in proper placement.
1:56 – Showing fine burr on plate. The gear caused burr at outer diameter of the circle.
2:03 – Three bolts re-inserted. Jeff stated, “snug them.” He later torqued them down “tight”.
2:17 – Checking out the relief values for shavings.
2:35 – Using carb cleaner.
3:07 – Using P320: Extra Fine sandpaper. It worked. Clean parts again after sanding!
3:16 – Showing gears: sanded both sides. DON’T OVERDO THE SANDING. Just a little bit.
3:20 – Hydraulic pump without the gears.
3:27 – Spinning gears inside to test. Free motion and a putter sound generated.
3:38 – Reattaching the pump onto cylinder side. 4 Allen head bolts.
4:11 – Reattaching the oil reservoir. Two Allen head bolts. (A long handle tool works best)
5:13 – Rechecking the motor gears: you want free motion. We got it!
5:13 – Realigning the gear inside that accepts the motor shaft. (Not difficult)
5:44 – Motor reattached. (Once motor shaft seated into gear – used rubber mallet to tap in.)
6:22 – Removing oil plug.
6:38 – Using syringe to fill chamber with synthetic oil. (Fill to opening)
7:15 – Only two wires: black/white. Put a longer wire pigtail on.
7:38 – The Final Test. SUCCESS!

Cylinder retraction: Connect the black lead to the positive (+) terminal
and the white wire to the negative (-) terminal.
Cylinder extension: Connect the black lead to the negative (-) terminal
and the white wire to the positive (+) terminal.

The cylinder starts working when the overload relief value activates.

Music by Epicsound.com